There is no reason to read the MCM thread. Just read Marcelino's description of doing the mod and then my and KLX678's information from our signatures.. At the end pages of the MCM thread, I put in a drawing of the finished MCM,, Check out the pics on the new thread(s) of recent MCM's..

Pulling the spark plug is one of the first things you'll do - so the engine will rotate easily. You will rotate the engine to TDC on the power stroke (meaning both valves are closed and the cam gear indicators are lined up across the head casting.) Before starting the actual retiming operation, you will be using a white grease pen to mark component relationships and expected/target relationships. Now, for example, Include markings from the rear sprocket to a fixed object and secure the rear tire with the bike in 1st gear - even if the engine does rotate during work, you can always use the markings on the rear sprocket to regain TDC.. Obviously the chain must be adjusted quite tight to allow accuracy..

Even experienced mechanics must rehearse the mod mentally, start the mod process, and rehearse again once all the components are ready to be "switched around"... Only then can actual retiming occur... When you get to where you can rehearse the mod mentally, you are ready to start wrenching..

 

BTW, Phil, if you want to the see the ONLY picture there is of an MCM done wrong - look at post #3 on this thread, https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...t-specs-46913/

 

Thanks.
So they don't end up perfectly symmetrical (even after rb corrected his)?

 

You're really worrying me Phil... Everything ends up perfectly symmetrical with grease pen markings on the cams showing an equal tiny movement toward each other...

Can you see the difference once he corrected his MCM on this thread https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...m-check-46915/

 

Fair enough.
You're worried. How do you think I feel? Having nightmares about it. 🙁😕😯😁

 

2009 klx250s UK model efi.
Took off the pair valve today and fitted the plate, stopper and sensor eliminator. Bought from Smartmoto off ebay and everything fitted.
Snorkel removed, Delkivic exhaust (o2 sensor eliminator fitted).
Intend to fit ejk tomorrow and record the initial readings.
Does anyone know the stage one settings?

 

EFI Controllers - Electronic Jet Kit - Motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, Sportbikes, Snowmobiles, Watercraft, Dirt Bikes

this link has base settings for stock, stage 1 with lid, or stage 1 lidless

 

Thanks
Mine is European.

 

When I click the link, European is there. Asian too. Maybe it’s your browser?

Anyway, you describe stage 1, no snorkel, European...it says:

Recommended base settings for EUROPEAN bikes with stage 1 modifications.

GRN @ 0.5 YEL @ 4.5 RED @ 6 G/B @ 4.5 Y/B @ 2.5 R/B @ 4.5

 

You probably already got an EJK, but I'm just trying to get the word out about the Powercommander fuel controller.

Now that Dynojet released FC17901 for the KLX300 and KLX300SM, you no longer have to order the FC17900E if you have a KLX250, because the FC17901 is the same exact box, with a different part no. sticker and fuel map, which will actually work fine with the 250, and you can also run the Dynojet 300R fuel map, if you have an exhaust.

i.e. Dynojet FC17900 KLX250 = KLX250E FC17900E = KLX300 FC17901