Klxster
Yes thanks.
Have ordered the pair valve eliminator kit from Smart moto.
Want more low/mid range grunt. Will the mcm help.
Thanks

 

Is there a performance difference between the q4 and power core?

 

The PC4 has a slightly larger diameter & shorter baffle (than the Q4's baffle).. It is a good bit louder. While we have no data comparing the two, I doubt there is any penalty with the Q4 over the PC4 - the Q4 is the best and only option for noise sensitive owners.

 

Low to midrange power increase is exactly what the MCM does. 3000 -6500 rpm

 

you are da man

 

Thanks once again Klxster.
Have time to do the mcm as five weeks into a broken fibula. The challenge for me is severe lack of ability/confidence. I'll be shaking like f.. k.
If possible please can you point me to the relevant posts from marcelino, klx678 and yourself. I looked at some of the mcm sticky (over 100 pages altogether).
Is there some way the relevant information could be joined together in a 'super sticky' that can't be added to?
Thanks once again Klxster.
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Phil,you pull the gas tank and the spark plug, pull the cam cover, rotate the engine to line up the cam gear marks when at Top Dead Center (both valves closed), lock the engine down so that it cannot rotate, pull the cam tensioner off, pull the cam saddle off, and get to work. Do one cam at a time.

Go onto the MCM thread last page - scroll up until you see a post from KLX678 - look at his signature for his MCM doc. Look on my signature for my MCM picture.

For some the MCM is childsplay, for others it is impossible.. Cam saddle bolts must be torqued down in the proper sequence and only to a specific very light ft lb.. I cannot remember the TRQ specs on those bolts, but it ain't much - so you will have to search and find those trq specs.. It is advised to use loc-tite on the cam gear bolts, but I didn't..

 

Thanks Klxster.
Will give it a go.
Have a great Christmas.

 

Not much to be worried about. I messed up at every turn. At the end of the day if you think you lost timing while doing it, just make sure the crank shaft is TDC, have the cam sprockets at TDC and in their proper bolts holes, the lobes will be pointed away from each other (intake towards the intake and exhaust towards the exhaust), and you’re back to square one. You don’t have to take off the cam cap (I’ve heard it referred to as the bearing race or something to that extent, too), if you don’t have the means to remove the KACR. You can just remove the spring.

A word of advice, there is still tension on the chain when you remove the automatic tensioner. There is another tensioner mounted just below it, but it isn’t necessary to remove. I say this just so you know when you go to take the bolts out of the cam sprockets, do only one cam at a time and it takes a little force to get the cam sprocket back on the cam. I suggest actually rotating it off of TDC to get the bolts out of both cams that you can’t reach when it’s at TDC. Take pictures of the sprockets at TDC before you alter the timing and again after. You should see the indention in the end of the cam shaft will be moved by a half a tooth (very little), but the TDC marks on the sprockets will be significantly off.

Its really not too bad. I used blue loctite on my cam shaft bolts. He isn’t kidding about how light the torque is. They’re bolts going in to a head that I presume is aluminum. I think the torque specs are specific to have the bolts not loosen, but more importantly to not strip the threads. I didn’t have a torque wrench on hand, but I kept the ratchet I was using short to avoid torquing the bolts too much. I think it was in the 110 - 120 in-lb range. Not much at all.

P.S. The tensioner was a PITA to get back in for me. That little spring is stiff in a new bike 😂

 

Yep. DL is right, you don't lock down the engine until after the appropriate cam gear bolts are removed from the cams. But after those two (two in total, one of each cam IIRC) bolts are removed, lock it down so you will not be able to screw anything up permanently...Also, use a whte grease pen to make the appropriate marks on the cams, gears, and even the chain.. The "end result" photos, etc, will show you where to mark each so that you know when you've gotten it done correctly.

The job can be done without removing the cam saddle, but it's much easier with the saddle removed...