The stock needle has no notches in it, you have to ghetto rig it by sticking shims/washers under it.... or did I miss/forget something and you have the N1TC needle already?
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Big Dick Italian

 

You ain't never lyin'.... all I need is the metal, I have the general idea how to do it. My sister needs to go steal me a street sign since she won't cough up any of hers.

I don't wanna hack the plastic if for some reason I decide to sell the bike. I'm thinking an all-in-one metal bracket that will hold the taillight, plate, and tuck in the signals.

 

I'm assuming it was up around 9,500.

Honestly, I didn't think it would run like that in 4th. I really didn't think that it showed much difference after I got through the other two gears, minus the fact that it wasn't quite as loud.

If you don't buy it, then go stretch its legs for yourself. It'll run if you push it. Again, I didn't really mean to, but I lost track of gears/RPM's because I had my eyes peeled for cops.

And, FWIW, that damned jet kit made the bike into a new machine. Can't wait for an exhaust.

 

I'll post pictures tomorrow, but here's what I did.

Take off the plate -- take off the mounting bracket that holds the plate.

Now, take that bracket, and flip it upside down. Position it right up under the tail light. Mark the holes, and draw a line where the cut will be made.

I took a Dremel w/ the 3' want and used a plastic cut-off wheel. I simply trimmed off all the excess plastic. Took me maybe 45 minutes to do. And, the best part -- it looks freakin' great!

Pics will come tomorrow in an "*** end trimmin'" thread.

 

welp... if your sure, your sure. Don't think I've ever had mine past 8500 or so.
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GANG BANG XXX

 

Honestly, there ain't much power past that.

 

Nope. I just placed the order for the 2152 dynojet kit. I saw that someone suggested to raise it a bit. I had no idea it required some "creativity".

My first exposure to a carb was studying for the private pilot's exam 2 years ago, and all that was was an illustration. I've studied up, and apparantly this jetting thing isn't really hard. The hard bit is getting the carb out in the first place, it seems.

Over on advrider.com, in the long term klx250s review, someone has just posted some really excellent illustrations-including a real life view of an entire carb cut in half. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...07591&page=211

I just can't wait to get this highway engine stutter fixed. Should I start 128 or 132 main? I'm in Austin, TX, approximately 400-500 feet ASL. I've got the TwinAir filter in there. Even with stock clogged air filter the bike was stuttering like crazy on the highway intermittently. My experience with overclocking PC's tells me to start small and move up. But man, removing the carb and doing that seems like a large pain in the butt.

Back on topic, it doesn't appear that you can order the 2152 kit online from anyone other than Dynojet themselves.
I'm gonna go look into local Dynomometer owners around and see what they charge. My D605 is so worn it's almost like a street tire at this point! Maybe I'll get a somewhat accurate reading.

 

DJ jets are a different number rating. I'm running regular Keihn jets in mine and I stuck a 130 in it. I have the snorkel removed, UNI filter, backfire caged removed, and crank vent drilled. And I ride on average from 1000-2000 ft. So far its pretty good. I haven't looked at the plug yet though, plus I need to move down a pilot size. Theres a 38 in it now, I have to put a 35 in it. Eventually I'm most likely just going to pull the lid off entirely. Probably end up with a 132.5 main jet in it. My needle is at the middle notch as well (N1TC) I guess its doing alright too. Most likely won't have to touch it.
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New Mexico Marijuana Dispensaries

 

That rear fender is only $23 to replace from the kawi dealer, lance that eye sore. You'll pick up at least 2 mental horse power....