down the hole we go - Kawasaki Forums

down the hole we go

Reply

 
 
 
  #1  
Old 05-14-2018, 07:08 PM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 218
Talking down the hole we go

well i have now started what i will call phase one.

My wheels have been striped down to hubs and rims, and i have oredered new spokes "custum made"
My rims will get a shiny black with stock hubs and spoke getting stock collor. (powder coated)

The rest has been put on hold after a visit to a kawi and a yami stealer last friday.

i went to a dealer not far from here with a friend who was looking at another bike, and while there i noticed the a Z300 and MT03 (naked R3).
the dealer must have noticed me drooling, he came over and we started talking about my klx and plans for it, He adviced me trading in or selling my klx for larger bike dur to me having to often go on 150+ mile round trips with alot of highway driving. and maybe get either the Z300 or MT 03 after just doing my wheels pedals and just a light touch up.

so for now i will hold back on the frame swing arm and for powder coating, and see what if i can get a good value or end up painting the rest and keeping it

here is a shot if the rear wheel before i un spoke it.

down the hole we go-img_20180513_120833.jpg

down the hole we go-img_20180513_120837.jpg

these pics remind me the value of ACF 50 since i forgot this winter and did not get it cleaned often enough. (pricy mistake)

re asemble will be in a few weeks while i wait for parts i will give the rear caliper a refab kit with piston. and do some other maintanence ont the rest.
 
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-14-2018, 09:22 PM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Rome, NY
Posts: 471
Default

de greaser and elbow grease make them shine right up
 
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-15-2018, 03:32 AM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cottonwood, AZ USA
Posts: 1,283
Default

So, why are u respoking? Cause they're dirty?
Get a maid, gasoline and gloves and get to it will save you a lot of work...
 
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-15-2018, 03:37 AM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 218
Default

some of them where coroded badly under the grime. and some broke when taking the wheel apart for powder coat.
 
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-17-2018, 09:13 AM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 218
Default

shipping the hubs rims and a few other bits off to powder coat tonight

going for shiny black rims

the real question is stock vs green shiny hubs??
 
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-29-2018, 06:12 PM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 218
Default

small update
got my hubs and rims back today and started on the front wheel and starting to look okay ish, later i discovered that i am missing 4 spokes and nipples for the rear. contacted my spoke dealer to see if he can make some extra.

here is my front before i start to true it tomorrow at some point.
 
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-29-2018, 06:26 PM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Delaware, Ohio
Posts: 3,272
Default

Looks good. Take your time, keep it close on up/down run out, spoke tension should be uniform all around with minor differences - how do you check? ping! Work slow, turn in equal turns to start.
 
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-29-2018, 06:30 PM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 218
Default

gonna go slow and go by ear with the ping method. (do not wanna fork out about 100$ for the torque wrench since expensive in denmark)

the plan is to have the wheel on the bike as i true it since i do not have a stand atm

ps my first time doing it kinda interesting and kinda satisfying.
 
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-30-2018, 12:27 AM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Delaware, Ohio
Posts: 3,272
Default

Use a hose clamp and a piece of wire bent to touch the inside. Clamp it to the fork, not tight, but enough to not move. I've done the front wheel in the forks for my trials bike and the rear in the swing arm. Get a good wrench that fits the spokes. Ping a spoke on a good wheel and use that tone as a guide. It really isn't that hard to do it. When moving the wheel think and loosen over three to four spokes and do the three or four opposite to take care of radial run out. Once radial run out is good and all spokes are relatively evenly tight (ping) then do the side to side. To pull side to side you need to do 1-3 spokes pullling to the direction and 1-3 loosened to the other side. Only do a half turn or so when truing side to side. Middle spoke(s) are loosened/tightened a bit more than the ones to the outer part.

To me, the worst part is building the wheel, truing is kind of zen-like.
 
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-02-2018, 05:11 PM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 218
Default

ok first wheel is now true according to my zip tie and eye gauge.

now i wait for some parts again after an idiot drove over some of them in my garage (doing a small burnout)

ps, i may take it apart again after thinking about anti corrosion might be an idea to apply
 
Reply With Quote
Reply
 
 
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
incabiker
KLX 250S
40
02-10-2016 12:35 AM
mole
KLX 250S
13
03-24-2007 08:06 AM
skylinegtst
KLX 250S
19
03-19-2007 04:14 AM
gotrice
Ninja ZX-6R & ZX-6RR
34
08-06-2006 07:48 AM
dr_claw
KLX 250S
5
06-02-2006 01:09 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Advertising
Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory