Does the KLX250 have a shared sump (wet clutch)?

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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Default Does the KLX250 have a shared sump (wet clutch)?

Since folks don't like to talk oil on here much I've been doing some research over on
Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forums powered by UBB.threads™

Just to verify, our bikes do have a wet clutch right?
 
Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:19 PM
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Correct.
 
Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wildcard
Correct.
Thanks!
 
Old Oct 17, 2012 | 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Brieninsac
Since folks don't like to talk oil on here much I've been doing some research over on
Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forums powered by UBB.threads™

Just to verify, our bikes do have a wet clutch right?
It's amazing how much time you can spend reading about oil huh? What did you learn so far? ...Other than that no one agrees.
 
Old Oct 17, 2012 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Lotrat
What did you learn so far? ...Other than that no one agrees.
There is nothing else to learn on that site.
 
Old Oct 17, 2012 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Lotrat
It's amazing how much time you can spend reading about oil huh? What did you learn so far? ...Other than that no one agrees.
I'm still trying to get a handle on all the acronyms. But so far it's been very informative. My initial question was about putting an auto 10w-40 synthetic in the bike. From what I've read there is no measurable difference between an auto and motorcycle synthetic. So when I went to buy a synthetic 10w-40 they were all marketed as "high-mileage/older car" oils. I didn't want to put an oil in the bike that may have an additive that would have an adverse affect on the engine. So I spent the $$$ and put in the Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. However, next year when I change the oil I might play with the weight a little and go with a 5w-40. But for now while still under warranty I'm going to still with the manufacturer's recommended 10w-40.
 
Old Oct 17, 2012 | 02:56 PM
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I use Motul 3000 20-50 mineral oil (US$10/L) since the first oil change. Bike has over 37,000km, and it hasn´t been even 2 years since I got it from the dealer. Which means I ride it a lot, every day, and between 6-7k rpm most of the time of my commute. I change oil every 5,000km. Bike still runs good as new.

IMO, the whole oil discussion is a waste of time, and a result of marketing hype and BS from people that know $h!7.
 
Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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Keep in mind the first number is the viscosity rating at low temperatures (0 degrees F IIRC) and the second number is the rating of the viscosity at operating temperature (200 degrees F usually). The W stands for winter.

So the only difference between 10w-40 and 15w-40 is that the second oil is going to be more viscous ("thicker" if you will) at 0 degrees than first oil. Both will be identical at operating temp.

Unless you are planning to go riding in below freezing weather, i wouldn't waste any time in worrying about the winter rating of an oil.

Just my .02
 
Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Does the "W" really stand for winter??? Never knew that, but I did know that the numbers did cover the low and high ends. Seems to me the W is redundant, or even useless, since some places may stay below 10 or 20 even in the summer (think Antarctica).
 
Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Malves
IMO, the whole oil discussion is a waste of time, and a result of marketing hype and BS from people that know $h!7.
So why are you loosing time taking part of that discussion?
 



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