I'm getting my Muzzy real soon, I just ordered the Dyno Jet kit and I have my 13th sprocket. I'm paying a local guy to do the work and that is all the work I'm doing. I read the forum about the other mods, yet I admit I don't fully understand them. Will I be fine doing just these? Do I HAVE to change the air box? Just curious. Thanks. This forum has been so helpful.




Dual Sport Oregon.

Ride it like you pay payments!!

 

Welcome Ty,

If your going to be putting on the Muzzy, Dyno jet kit, and 13 tooth sprocket, buy an after market air filter.

My after market airfilter is almost in my hands. I got a Uni air filter, same OEM part number as the KLX 300. There are other choices for filters, but the Uni has been used by others in this forum and they reported good performance gain with it.

I did a custom exhaust mod by cutting the exhaust apart, gutting it, and welding it back together. I have the smog stuff removed, drilled the crank vent hole, removed the stock snorkel, replace with the KDX 200 snorkel, and all the carb upgrades (such as: #125 main jet, KLX 300 jet needle, #40 pilot jet, 2 turns out on the pliot jet). I have a 13 tooth front sprocket, but I haven't used it yet. I'm not sure if I want to change the road ride, noise, and chain wear with the 13 tooth sprocket.

I actually removed the KDX 200 snorkel because with only 2 turns out on the pilot jet screw it was too rich. I supose the #40 pilot jet may be too big over the #35 stock pilot jet, but I believe with the aftermarket air filter the #40 will perform well. Also at full throttle I noticed the motor was to rich, but with more air flow allowed by the Uni air filter I should get the performance I know is there. I do have a #122 main jet, but I don't think I will need it with the Uni. Some guys have reported real improvements after getting a Uni or K&N air filter. The motor will breath a little better over stock and help boost the carb and exhaust mod performance.

What are some of the mods you are not sure about or understanding?????

 

I quess I don't understand the snokel part and the crank case vent hole. I don't know how to tell my mechanic what to do. Thanks for the air filter suggestion. I'll probably do that for sure.

I do ride the bike a lot on the street so I'm a little concerned about what the gearing change will do and if its worth it. I do mostly ride it pretty mellow. Sometimes I hammer it to get it moving in traffic.

I recently just remove the stock mirrors and replaced with real small ones, the bikes looks and feels more like a real dirt bike now, the blinkers are next, real small ones.

Man, I can't wait for that thing to sound like a REAL THUMPER!

 

The snorkel is located under the seat in the middle of the air box. It is rubber and help direct air into the air box and also keeps unwanted crap from getting in the air box (water, fine rock etc). Unless you plan on lots of water crossings in your rides I wouldn't worry about removing the snorkel. I have ridding 700/1000km on my bike off-road and hit lots of water and no issue so far. The KDX 200 snorkel looks to have twice the opening area as the stock snorkel. That is alot more air able to get into the motor. Now get a efficient high flow air filter, carb mods and let it blow out the *** end easily and you have more power. You don't have to use the snorkel. I will use the KDX snorkel when I get the Uni air filter.

The crank case vent hole allows gases built up in the crank case to escape to the outside. By increasing the hole diameter you allow more gas to escape and lower the pressure in the crank case. This lower resisting pressure will help the piston to move up and down easier. Quicker rev response is the result (I think my theory is right.) The crank case vent is in the air box under the air filter and its metal screen. You will see a hose go from the bottom of the air box to the crank case. The hole on air box is to be drilled. I drilled the 3/8" hole by hand. It took a while, but it worked. I'm sure a mechanic will drill it for you.

I removed all the reflective discs, and that dorky black rear fender license plate holder. Just removed the bolts, cut the license plate illumination light wires. Wrap and heat shrink the wires, tie strap them under the fender. Take the old mounting bracket off the removed license plate holder and attach it just under the brake light. This really makes the bike look like a dirt bike from the rear. I have been more concered with performance than cosmetics, however, I did get some custom decals made for the bike.

 

I'm curious how you did the license plate? Did you have to purchase anything or you found a way to add it to the fender? I'm looking to take all that stuff of next.

 

Cut the license plate illumination light wires. Use elecrical tape and heat shrink to protect these live wires. Tie strap them to the frame under the rear fender. Take the small bracket holding the plate off the black plastic license plate holder. Position the license plate with the small bracket under the rear brake light. Drill two hole for the bolts and attach. This certainly cleans up the rear of the bike and give it a more aggresssive look.

You can also buy aftermarket license plate holders. There are few posts in this forum with guys that have done so.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_55156/tm.htm

hope this works.