Clutch service life?

Old Oct 1, 2008 | 09:17 PM
  #11  
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It's a wet clutch...designed for trail riding. If your slipping at low rpm's(3000 rpm and lower) knock yourself out. Lower gears are preferred, I ran 13/45 and 14/48 for 13000 miles(3000 with 331 kit), and 2 hours at 9000 rpm on the freeway was not unusual.

Just use a quality oil. I changed mine every 2000 miles or so.
 
Old Oct 1, 2008 | 10:35 PM
  #12  
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I've never slipped my clutch. I may pull it in and let it out a lot on the trails, but I don't need to slip it ever. 13-45 ROCKS!!!!!!!!
 
Old Oct 1, 2008 | 10:44 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by je2000
So basically you're saying I should slip in 1st, BUT if I do decide to do it in 2nd all day I will kill the clutch faster. Once killed, the clutch is an inexpensive item to replace?

It's just tough, because I'm constantly shifting
Well if you're riding tight trails, you're gonna be constantly shifting. IDK that you'll neccessariy wear it out faster... my logic says you would, since 2nd gear = more momentum and force being placed on the clutch, and slipping it with that much MO and pressure probably isn't the best thing... but that's just my guess.

What I'm saying is, you're gonna kill the motor if you're in second and you slow down and start slipping the clutch, and something happens (an obstacle pops up, the terrain changes literally underneath you, you stumble) and you lose mo. If you're going ~12 miles an hour, and it starts to tighten up or you come to a slow turn, then just downshift inito first. You can rev it pretty dang high in first, I've revved 18 miles an hour (no clue on the RPMs, it was screaming), which would be easier on the motor than say, ******* the motor at 8 miles an hour in second and risking a stall. Stall = fall. Ask my original clutch lever at 47 miles on the bike the day I brought it home. Both halves will tell you

As for the sprockets, I've heard that going smaller than 14 in the front puts too much strain on the links of the chain (wrapping it so tight around such a small diameter sprocket), so even though its cheaper, you'll eat chains faster. I'm looking at going with a 45 or 46 tooth rear sprocket, bit of a compromise. Not QUITE as low as 13/42 but not an utter dog at 60 mph.

This is all my .02 so I'll let the lashings of the wet noodle commence.
 
Old Oct 1, 2008 | 11:02 PM
  #14  
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I had 8000 miles on a cheap non o-ring chain running the 13 and 45 combo, if its hard on the chain then it takes forever. I suppose if you're worried about chain wear you could always go to a 14-48 or 14-50
 
Old Oct 1, 2008 | 11:59 PM
  #15  
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who uses the clutch?
 
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 12:37 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by redpillar
who uses the clutch?
Kinda hard not too, since my vehicles are manual transmissions. So why not to use the clutch? Only if I don't feel like stopping or I really want to go faster.
 
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 02:02 AM
  #17  
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just pulling your leg...although the gear box shifts fine if you have to shift fast for some reason
 
Old Oct 2, 2008 | 03:27 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by a16tony
It's a wet clutch...designed for trail riding. If your slipping at low rpm's(3000 rpm and lower) knock yourself out. Lower gears are preferred, I ran 13/45 and 14/48 for 13000 miles(3000 with 331 kit), and 2 hours at 9000 rpm on the freeway was not unusual.

Just use a quality oil. I changed mine every 2000 miles or so.
Ah, yeah-this is what the guy said to me before we headed out.

"Since you have a wet clutch, it will work to your advantage here. You might find 1st to be a little herky jerky, so stay in 2nd when you have to and slip the clutch etc. etc."

I use Motul 5100 15w-40
 
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