choke stick thing, air leak?

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  #11  
Old 05-01-2018, 04:29 AM
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Wow, just wow....
 
  #12  
Old 05-01-2018, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by xcrcarpenter
Wow, just wow....
^this

I'm surprised people are still trying to help this guy.
 
  #13  
Old 05-01-2018, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bgcameron
^this

I'm surprised people are still trying to help this guy.
At least he’s letting us know he has found the right combination with his set up.
When im in my jammies I’m a true internet warrior with many successful slayings !
 
  #14  
Old 05-01-2018, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by horror_fan
no big deal? well I'm glad you have that opinion cuz you can keep it ... I like my motors running the way they should, not even going to read the rest of this crap.
the bike shouldn't need to crack throttle ... the point of electric start is convenience ...having it start like a car would + not having to break your back from excessive kicking .
You are rather pompous, aren't you. Mikuni Corp. says that crackling under decel is not a sign of any problem, it is normal. Are you more knowledgeable than Mikuni Corp.? You bitch about everything anyone has said. People with serious skills. You can't follow the simplest of directions to tune idle mix using idle drop, what riders and even car tuners used long before any A/F meters were used. Honda even had a special tool tachometer that read in 10 rpm increments for fine balance and idle mix adjustment.

You must also clearly never have dealt with a carbureted car that required partial throttle to start when warm. I have. Wasn't unusual. Carbs ain't EFI. And virtually every version of Honda Nighthawk 550-700 required slight throttle opening on warm start - and I think Honda had a pretty good idea of what was going on. Those bikes were the easiest starting quickest warming of any of the mid-80s motorcycles using carburetors. Hell, Yamaha used to have a special throttle set on one of their bikes that would crack the throttle open to a specific setting to start. Maybe you should become a motorcycle engineer since you seem to think you are better than the manufacturers.

Just because you cannot figure it out does not make the rest of us ignorant.
 

Last edited by klx678; 05-01-2018 at 07:12 PM.
  #15  
Old 05-01-2018, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by horror_fan
it was the mixture screw

WHEN I HAD THIS ISSUE (and every other issue I've brought up on this forum) ... the mixture screw was set to 2.5-2.1
I had been playing in this range ONLY based of forum members BOGUS recommendations. "dyno tests" whatever ..
honestly was the worst advice I could get ... and the fuel ratio proves it.
Weren't bright enough to pay attention to the gauge you bought to do the work and you blame us? You never turned the needle to see what the A/F meter read and it's our fault? Really... I'd have turned the screw until I got the reading needed, changing jetting if necessary. Duh!
 

Last edited by klx678; 05-01-2018 at 04:00 PM.
  #16  
Old 05-01-2018, 08:41 PM
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Sounds like you need to find a new forum brother. FWIW... All the advice I've received here on the forum has been worth MUCH more than I have paid for it so I'm gonna stick around and listen to klx678, klxster, and the others who've been there and done that. My '09 is running sweet based on the info they've shared, and I will come back and ask again when I get ready to do the 351!
 
  #17  
Old 05-01-2018, 09:12 PM
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Not to many times have the guys like who have tried to help you out were wrong. This bike and the mods are pretty straight forward. Rarely is there a problem these guys haven’t been able to answer. And when there had been a difficult problem arise, even more people show up n try to help. You might try to ask your questions on another site to possibly get an answer from another perspective. Good job getting your bike taken care of by yourself even if you feel you were led astray
 
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