Changes on 2015 efi Klx 250s....

Old Dec 24, 2015 | 05:33 PM
  #11  
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Might be worth dropping joel thailand a PM if he doesn't see this thread.
He seems to be the oracle when it comes to the EFI models
 
Old Dec 24, 2015 | 06:15 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Klxster
Spadey99, know that you'll get some "opinions" on here that are "less than informed".. We have members overseas that know the recipe for easily modding your engine for 25 hp - and that is a difference like "night and day" - it's almost like getting a whole new "bigger" bike.. These members know this because they've done it and they ride it.. Thier advice is "good as gold"... Your problem is that this thread may not get thier attention - Start a new thread titled like - "2015 EFI engine mod advice"... And look for the guys that are "living it" from overseas..
Thanks mate received and understood
 
Old Dec 25, 2015 | 12:01 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by toomanytoys84
Buy a programmer for it? EJK makes one.

O2 sensor helps the efi adjust itself. It's only partially for emissions in a way. I believe the elimator will "trick" it into running as rich as it can.

I would believe Kawasaki intended the o2 sensor to be there?

I haven't messed with efi very in depth other than slapping a programmer on my rancher and rzr when I added aftermarket exhausts and intakes.
What's very interesting is with my 2010 Husqvarna TE250 (fuel injected), from the factory they are very 'corked up'. When you buy the bike, apparently you get the 'race' kit with it (O2 plug and bung to eliminate the O2 sensor, a 50Tooth rear sprocket). So, everybody that buys one, immediately installs the race kit, and removes the Cat converter from the pipe - apparently they run like crap (very, very lean) from the factory.

The point is that the 'fix' for these bikes is removing the O2 sensor. Doesn't make a lot of sense - normally you'd want the the O2 to feedback to the ECU, but apparently the Husky only installed the O2 to make it pass emissions.
 
Old Dec 25, 2015 | 03:22 AM
  #14  
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Yep, the O2 sensor allows "closed loop" running with precise adjustment of AFR ... It's just unfortunate that factory setups use this feature/capability as a way to run extremely lean AFR's (and catalysts) to pass emissions testing.. We should be able to use it(closed loop operations) to produce max power along with max fuel economy - A PCV (like on my Harley Ultra) allows decel pop fixing, control closed loop AFR target ( only within the range of stock, narrow band, O2 sensors) , control when "open loop" ops begin and all open loop AFR's, and control "accelerator pump" function etc etc... We should also be able to replace the stock narrow band O2 with a wide band O2 sensor and use a PCV to run closed loop over more of the operating range all while targeting a much better(richer) AFR...
 
Old Dec 25, 2015 | 10:22 AM
  #15  
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I have a 2014 EFI and did the KDX snorkel with Q4 exhaust. It was popping a lot and ran super hot. Though keep in mind I live in a hot and humid climate (Taiwan). When I finally bought the EJK kit it fixed the problem for the most part. It still pops on decel from time to time and will pop between shifts occasionally. But the heat issue disappeared for the most part. (Summer here is a different story. Seems there's no cure for stop and go tight city riding. Had the overheating light come on several times)

I would definitely budget for an EJK or similar if you wanna keep that aftermarket can. If you happened to be in the (US) military, EJK has a military discount. Got my controller for $175. Can't beat that!
 
Old Dec 25, 2015 | 10:43 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by outrecording
I have a 2014 EFI and did the KDX snorkel with Q4 exhaust. It was popping a lot and ran super hot. Though keep in mind I live in a hot and humid climate (Taiwan). When I finally bought the EJK kit it fixed the problem for the most part. It still pops on decel from time to time and will pop between shifts occasionally. But the heat issue disappeared for the most part. (Summer here is a different story. Seems there's no cure for stop and go tight city riding. Had the overheating light come on several times)

I would definitely budget for an EJK or similar if you wanna keep that aftermarket can. If you happened to be in the (US) military, EJK has a military discount. Got my controller for $175. Can't beat that!
Thanks mate great info.... Obviously I'm In the uk so not very hot anytime lol....
Will look into one
 
Old Dec 25, 2015 | 07:18 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Klxster
Yep, the O2 sensor allows "closed loop" running with precise adjustment of AFR ... It's just unfortunate that factory setups use this feature/capability as a way to run extremely lean AFR's (and catalysts) to pass emissions testing.. We should be able to use it(closed loop operations) to produce max power along with max fuel economy - A PCV (like on my Harley Ultra) allows decel pop fixing, control closed loop AFR target ( only within the range of stock, narrow band, O2 sensors) , control when "open loop" ops begin and all open loop AFR's, and control "accelerator pump" function etc etc... We should also be able to replace the stock narrow band O2 with a wide band O2 sensor and use a PCV to run closed loop over more of the operating range all while targeting a much better(richer) AFR...
Yeah, a little frustrating that Husky designed the O2, it seems, purely for leaning it out to meet emissions. Once you buy it, you install the 'race kit', which includes an O2 eliminator plug. Would be nice if there was just a switch, so it still took feedback from the O2 to get into closed loop. I have a JD Jetting EFI tuner on it - it's pretty basic - probably like the EJK - there are 6 settings - idle, low, mid, high, accel pump and mid-to-high crossover point. I have it strapped to the bars so I can tweak it as I'm riding, although if/once I get it dialed in and don't need to adjust it anymore, I'll likely tuck it in behind the headlight shroud. I also have a dual map switch - the stock ECU has 2 ECU maps (that still work with the JD tuner) - one for dry and one for wet - I usually run the wet map as it seems to give it a little more grunt down low. It's something like 35HP, but the bottom end power is really weak compared to the KLX.
 
Old Dec 26, 2015 | 08:28 AM
  #18  
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You can run the bike without the 02 sensor no problems. It's only there for emissions & is also a crappy narrow band sensor anyway! The expensive wide band sensors is only used with Bazzaz & power commanders autotune etc etc for real time 02 readings.

The 02 eliminator tricks your bike into running at max richness (still not rich enough but better) & well worth fitting.

Don't open your airbox up unless you have some sort of fuel controller (EJK or PCv) to increase AFR. I'm running low 13's across the rev range, with blocked PAIR valve clean air BS & have almost zero decel popping btw.
 
Old Dec 26, 2015 | 08:52 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by JoelThailand
You can run the bike without the 02 sensor no problems. It's only there for emissions & is also a crappy narrow band sensor anyway! The expensive wide band sensors is only used with Bazzaz & power commanders autotune etc etc for real time 02 readings.

The 02 eliminator tricks your bike into running at max richness (still not rich enough but better) & well worth fitting.

Don't open your airbox up unless you have some sort of fuel controller (EJK or PCv) to increase AFR. I'm running low 13's across the rev range, with blocked PAIR valve clean air BS & have almost zero decel popping btw.
Hi mate good info there...

So even leave the snorkel in??? I have removed snorkel but left lid on...

So pop snorkel back in???
 
Old Dec 26, 2015 | 09:14 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by spadey99
Hi mate good info there...

So even leave the snorkel in??? I have removed snorkel but left lid on...

So pop snorkel back in???
Yep snorkel back in! It's just making your AFR leaner & engine run hotter unless you add more fuel into the mix.
 

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