In the drawing below that paragraph they're showing it measured from the bottom, below the swingarm. One last stupid question and I'll stop for awhile... the 35~45mm. That means I should be able to lift the chain and measure up from the top of the swingarm to the bottom of the bottom of the lifted chain and have 35mm RIGHT?

I can't answer that, because it is different than what the manual says for the '07 models.
Maybe you could scan the pic you are talking about. They did change the swingarm on the 09 and up models. Also, what manual are you using? Kawi manual or something like Clymer?

top chain tight....bottom chain in the middle hanging...lift up..it should only go up 35 mm ~ 45 mm...i keep mine closer to 45 mm....little looser it better than little tight i think...just going on my own theory...

I never thought of bothering trying to get it that precise. Just followed the mechanical thought process that looser was better than too tight. That with enough time on the bikes makes it a short job.

But this has made me start to think... there is a better way even yet.

I've been meaning to get back to you on this. I've been working a crazy amount of OT lately. How do you post pictures? All the links are dead in the "how to" thread. It's probably over simple. That's why I haven't figured it out:cool:

Have no fear, check out this thread:

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...82/#post473038

If you ride on trails and bomb your bike, it's safer to have it on thee loose side like mx bikes. No problem with mine. Better a little chain slack than too tight which may mess up your bearings .

Ok so here they are. From the sound of this thread chain tension is not as important as I thought. That is good to know but my manual still seems contradictory.

Attachment 12336

Attachment 12337

IMO one should follow the recommended amount of slack at the recommended location as directed by the shop manual, not the owner's manual. I don't always trust owner's manuals. The shop manual is usually spot-on.

However, remember this. The shop manual's measurement and location are based on a fully stock bike. How many of us have different sprocket sizes and even aftermarket chainguide and rub blocks? This can change the required chain slack. I have 14/47 gearing with Hotfoot Moto chainguide, roller, and rub blocks. I had to modify the rear, lower chainguide near the rear sprocket for optimum fitment to the bigger sprocket. I also used part of the original aluminum parts of the OEM chainguide at the rear sprocket.

Really, one should set the bike up on a stand or lift and remove one of the lower link bones/arms to allow full, free movement of the swingarm and wheel. With the ability to freely move the rear wheel up and down through its arc, find the tightest point of the chain where the countershaft(front) sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear axle are in perfect alignment. Use a bottle jack or other tool to hold the rear wheel in this position and adjust the chain with the tiniest bit of slack in the chain. Note: try to find where your chain is at its tightest point, as most chains are not perfectly or exactly equal in link tension or length. When you have the chain adjusted with just a tiny bit of slack at the very tightest position of the chain with all 3 of those points I mentioned in perfect alignment, tighten the axle. Recheck to make sure that tiny bit of slack is still there. Now, reinstall the lower linkage bone/arm to put the swingarm in its operating location. Keep the bike lifted with the rear wheel off the ground so that static sag doesn't affect the chain slack measurement.

Now you have the perfect amount of necessary chain slack. At this point I'd recommend you find the recommended OEM location for measurement or measure the slack of the chain on the bottom run about midway from the front chain block contact to where it contacts the rear sprocket. Measure the amount of slack from your chosen point. This is the "minimum" amount of slack that you must have for your particular bike from this point on...unless you change something in the drivetrain or guide components in the future. How much additional slack will require an adjustment on the rear axle? It depends on the bike. However, if you make a small adjustment at the rear axle and find that you now don't have enough of your predetermined slack, you know you need to back off the adjustment to regain your proper chain slack. Using this method of finding proper chain slack is the best way to insure that chain adjustments are correct. Forget about the owner's or shop manual. Find the exact chain slack that I indicated and stay with that measurement from then on unless you change something in the drivetrain.

This is a critical measurement. Don't trust it to some general recommendation. Damage from a too tight chain can be a real issue.

Edit: I use a metal straight edge to check my chain adjustment, but even something like relic's device that has that predetermined and correct chain slack position marked on it will work just fine. Just use the same measurement and measurement location every time.

Nice instructions TNC. And welcome back from Moab - looking forward to your report.