Carburetor air-screw
Hi any one tried adjusting the carburetor airscrew with out any other modifications? My bike is all stock but I don’t like the slow throttle response when leaving a stop sign. Once the revs are up it is fine just the initial take off seems a bit slow. I don’t want to modify the carb and ruin the fuel economy. Any suggestions-Thanks OR-Guy
Remove the seat. Remove the carb, top, take out the slide and drill the vent hole to 7/64". You can also cut the slide spring to 3.5 inch from 4.0 inch.
That's as good as it gets in response without any further mods, i.e filter, pipe, jetting.
The FUEL screw (It's not an air screw) can be adjusted but if you have a USA spec bike you'll need to remove the cap covering the screw before you can access it. (Best done with the carb' out.) Adjusting the screw while the carb' is on the bike is a chore too unless you have fitted a Kouba FS3 fuel screw. (Involves removing the carb' to fit the FS3 screw.) Most people do all the mods to the carb' at once as removing the carb' is a chore the first time you do it. Fitting a Dynojet kit is by far the easiest, "all in one box" solution for jetting the carb. While you have the seat off you may as well junk the OE air filter and fit something more free flowing.
Oh, and welcome to the forum mate.
Most of this has been covered before. Try this link to Dirtsurfers mod day. It's posted in the sticky thread at the top of the page.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=8886
That's as good as it gets in response without any further mods, i.e filter, pipe, jetting.
The FUEL screw (It's not an air screw) can be adjusted but if you have a USA spec bike you'll need to remove the cap covering the screw before you can access it. (Best done with the carb' out.) Adjusting the screw while the carb' is on the bike is a chore too unless you have fitted a Kouba FS3 fuel screw. (Involves removing the carb' to fit the FS3 screw.) Most people do all the mods to the carb' at once as removing the carb' is a chore the first time you do it. Fitting a Dynojet kit is by far the easiest, "all in one box" solution for jetting the carb. While you have the seat off you may as well junk the OE air filter and fit something more free flowing.

Oh, and welcome to the forum mate.

Most of this has been covered before. Try this link to Dirtsurfers mod day. It's posted in the sticky thread at the top of the page.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=8886
Last edited by WestOzKLX; Oct 31, 2008 at 04:28 AM.
Just adjusting the A/F screw isn't going to make much of a difference, and as OZ has stated, you'll pretty much have to take the carburetor off the bike, and if you're gonna go through all that trouble you just as well outta rejet it.
Welcome to the forums!!
Welcome to the forums!!
Hi have you ever removed the dual carb’s from H- - - A XL or XR now that a chore. The KLX looks quite easy but looks can be deceiving. Thanks for the reply
No worries bro' (switch to NZ speak as I've just watched an NZ movie.) LOL
"cold as a chelly ben bro!"
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=xG-KtYB3cJI
"cold as a chelly ben bro!"
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=xG-KtYB3cJI
I was getting 95 miles to reserve this summer and i was running a 132 main jet in my pumper. My point being you won't lose that many mpg by re-jeting. try a 13 tooth counter shaft sprocket before you do anything else and you might be surprised what that does for you off the line.
13t is the best option for the buck......WithOutaDoubt.
As for not losing mpg with a rejet....I lost 30%....But theres a topic post on that already..
Would be interesting to see a bike with just a 13t.....I bet thats all ya need...
Rocco
As for not losing mpg with a rejet....I lost 30%....But theres a topic post on that already..
Would be interesting to see a bike with just a 13t.....I bet thats all ya need...
Rocco
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