Is cam chain adjusted correctly? Sound file
#2
Send email.
For what it is worth to members, the cam chain tensioner installation, which includes adjustment instructions is now a sticky in the KLX250S forum should you ever need them. I will probably go paste a copy in the forum for more permanence. The one there is a google doc which could disappear. If you have a google drive account, a freebie, you can make a copy of the file for yourself in your own account.
For what it is worth to members, the cam chain tensioner installation, which includes adjustment instructions is now a sticky in the KLX250S forum should you ever need them. I will probably go paste a copy in the forum for more permanence. The one there is a google doc which could disappear. If you have a google drive account, a freebie, you can make a copy of the file for yourself in your own account.
#3
Send email.
For what it is worth to members, the cam chain tensioner installation, which includes adjustment instructions is now a sticky in the KLX250S forum should you ever need them. I will probably go paste a copy in the forum for more permanence. The one there is a google doc which could disappear. If you have a google drive account, a freebie, you can make a copy of the file for yourself in your own account.
For what it is worth to members, the cam chain tensioner installation, which includes adjustment instructions is now a sticky in the KLX250S forum should you ever need them. I will probably go paste a copy in the forum for more permanence. The one there is a google doc which could disappear. If you have a google drive account, a freebie, you can make a copy of the file for yourself in your own account.
Do you have a thread of typical first signs of tensioner failure, could you add it to the sticky thread, or is it too random.
I've added a bunch of accessories and aftermarket exhaust etc. I'm hearing a pronounced rattle just between 5300-6000 rpm, while stationary or moving, any gear (including neutral). Above or below that rpm no noticable ticking. I initially thought it was just a natural resonance with something else on the bike, but haven't found the source yet. I then thought the tensioner was in need of a moving out a tooth and hadn't yet. On my Triumph, you usually hear any cam chain tension issues on cold starts or when it needs to ratchet out. So, does the KLX250 tensioner failure typically exhibit certain symptoms like mine or different? I looked at some threads, but didn't see a definitive pattern of experiences. Mine is a '13 U.S. model, 10,000 miles and I need to do a valve check, just for reference.
Thanks.
#4
Hey @klx678, question for you and I'll preface by saying I plan to buy one of your tensioners regardless of if it's currently what I'm hearing, because I like the reliability and more precise adjustment. I have your site bookmarked and will order direct.
Do you have a thread of typical first signs of tensioner failure, could you add it to the sticky thread, or is it too random.
I've added a bunch of accessories and aftermarket exhaust etc. I'm hearing a pronounced rattle just between 5300-6000 rpm, while stationary or moving, any gear (including neutral). Above or below that rpm no noticable ticking. I initially thought it was just a natural resonance with something else on the bike, but haven't found the source yet. I then thought the tensioner was in need of a moving out a tooth and hadn't yet. On my Triumph, you usually hear any cam chain tension issues on cold starts or when it needs to ratchet out. So, does the KLX250 tensioner failure typically exhibit certain symptoms like mine or different? I looked at some threads, but didn't see a definitive pattern of experiences. Mine is a '13 U.S. model, 10,000 miles and I need to do a valve check, just for reference.
Thanks.
Do you have a thread of typical first signs of tensioner failure, could you add it to the sticky thread, or is it too random.
I've added a bunch of accessories and aftermarket exhaust etc. I'm hearing a pronounced rattle just between 5300-6000 rpm, while stationary or moving, any gear (including neutral). Above or below that rpm no noticable ticking. I initially thought it was just a natural resonance with something else on the bike, but haven't found the source yet. I then thought the tensioner was in need of a moving out a tooth and hadn't yet. On my Triumph, you usually hear any cam chain tension issues on cold starts or when it needs to ratchet out. So, does the KLX250 tensioner failure typically exhibit certain symptoms like mine or different? I looked at some threads, but didn't see a definitive pattern of experiences. Mine is a '13 U.S. model, 10,000 miles and I need to do a valve check, just for reference.
Thanks.
You are experiencing the the exact characteristic/symptom of the OEM tensioner failing to work correctly. As it gets worse the noise will get louder and be over more of the rpm range. Eventually the rattle will be present pretty much all the time. If let go to the point of extreme failure the cam chain can jump at the crank sprocket which will result in valves hitting the piston. Not good results. Usually the chain will break then too, which will make some think the failure was the chain breaking, but that is the result of the timing jump. It takes a lot of miles for that catastrophic failure, but the chain slap can damage the sliders and definitely causes inconsistent valve timing which will affect performance to an extent.
#6
Just to follow up on this thread, I got my manual tensioner on Thursday and popped it in on Friday and I no longer get that resonance between 5300-6000 rpm. About 100 miles on it since install.
I did have a question to make sure I had the tension correct @klx678 was quick to reply to my email, so good part and good support. Thank you!
Here's where my install differed a bit from the directions:
1. To make sure I was feeling TDC correctly, I just pulled the timing cap and then I could see the mark so I wasn't guessing.
2. I initially did the tensioner finger tight without overly forcing it and then backed it off per the directions. On starting (after manually rotating) it sounded looser than prior to removing the stock automatic tensioner. So, I marked the top of the adjuster screw with some marking paint (okay it was whiteout), I followed the fine tune process and tightened it about 1/2 turn with the engine running and there's a distinctive cut off between some slack and where the slack comes out while listening to it run while adjusting. The white line helps to track how much you're rotating. I then was able to lock down the jam nut, which I also marked with a paint line so I can make sure it is staying put.
Also, looking at the stock tensioner, the spring and ratchet looked fine, so it would be difficult to visually inspect for a minor failure of the stock unit.
I did have a question to make sure I had the tension correct @klx678 was quick to reply to my email, so good part and good support. Thank you!
Here's where my install differed a bit from the directions:
1. To make sure I was feeling TDC correctly, I just pulled the timing cap and then I could see the mark so I wasn't guessing.
2. I initially did the tensioner finger tight without overly forcing it and then backed it off per the directions. On starting (after manually rotating) it sounded looser than prior to removing the stock automatic tensioner. So, I marked the top of the adjuster screw with some marking paint (okay it was whiteout), I followed the fine tune process and tightened it about 1/2 turn with the engine running and there's a distinctive cut off between some slack and where the slack comes out while listening to it run while adjusting. The white line helps to track how much you're rotating. I then was able to lock down the jam nut, which I also marked with a paint line so I can make sure it is staying put.
Also, looking at the stock tensioner, the spring and ratchet looked fine, so it would be difficult to visually inspect for a minor failure of the stock unit.
#7
The teeth and pawl get accelerated wear that isn't like a chip or break. The movement of the plunger is reflected by a clear pattern on the teeth where the ratcheting action has the pawl slip back over the teeth. The other evidence of problem is on the bottom side the plunger shaft will have the surface polished from the plunger sliding in and out probably tens of thousands of times to wear like that in an oil bath - and I'm probably conservative at that. At a glance though, everything will look fine.
#8
The teeth and pawl get accelerated wear that isn't like a chip or break. The movement of the plunger is reflected by a clear pattern on the teeth where the ratcheting action has the pawl slip back over the teeth. The other evidence of problem is on the bottom side the plunger shaft will have the surface polished from the plunger sliding in and out probably tens of thousands of times to wear like that in an oil bath - and I'm probably conservative at that. At a glance though, everything will look fine.
#9
Yep, that's it. Seen it on my 650, my 250, on pictures of other 250s, a GSX1250, and a ZX6 tensioner I bought on ebay to make a body. I planned to sell the ZX6 tensioner until I saw the damage. I can't screw someone over selling them a piece of junk.
#10
Just ordered
Apparently across the board and all forums this seems to be the best. Based out of Ohio, he engineers them himself.
From: Mark Krieger kriegercct@clems-garage.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 7:13 AM
To:
Subject: Re: 2009 KLX250s Cam Chain Tensioner
The kit is $41.30 in the U.S. including shipping. I use PayPal or can accept a money order/check mailed to the address below. I will send you a PayPal money request making it easy to pay the proper amount (this is not an invoice, it is a payment aid with no obligation to pay), or you can use the PayPal "send money" feature sending proper payment to the email address on this email. The kit is shipped by USPS flat rate priority mail.
Here is a picture of the kit:
[img]file:///C:/Users/IABAL/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.jpg[/img]
The kit includes new fasteners, a gasket, instructions, and a couple of stickers for the bike.
Thank you for contacting me.
Cheers
Mark Krieger
2409 Warrensburg Road
Delaware, OH 43015-1339
330-340-2655
http://www.clems-garage.com/CCT/
[img]file:///C:/Users/IABAL/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image002.png[/img]
Apparently across the board and all forums this seems to be the best. Based out of Ohio, he engineers them himself.
From: Mark Krieger kriegercct@clems-garage.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 7:13 AM
To:
Subject: Re: 2009 KLX250s Cam Chain Tensioner
The kit is $41.30 in the U.S. including shipping. I use PayPal or can accept a money order/check mailed to the address below. I will send you a PayPal money request making it easy to pay the proper amount (this is not an invoice, it is a payment aid with no obligation to pay), or you can use the PayPal "send money" feature sending proper payment to the email address on this email. The kit is shipped by USPS flat rate priority mail.
Here is a picture of the kit:
[img]file:///C:/Users/IABAL/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.jpg[/img]
The kit includes new fasteners, a gasket, instructions, and a couple of stickers for the bike.
Thank you for contacting me.
Cheers
Mark Krieger
2409 Warrensburg Road
Delaware, OH 43015-1339
330-340-2655
http://www.clems-garage.com/CCT/
[img]file:///C:/Users/IABAL/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image002.png[/img]
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