broken camshaft cap bolt

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 04:05 AM
  #11  
DYNOBOB's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 304
From: Cincinnati, OH
1st Gear Member
Default

He shattered around one bolt hole of the cam cap. I'd do whatever I could to repair.

I suspect the cap bores are machined at same time as head and that's why they're not sold separately.


.
 

Last edited by DYNOBOB; Feb 16, 2013 at 04:21 AM.
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 04:25 AM
  #12  
durielk's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,728
From: Cottonwood, AZ USA
1st Gear Member
Default

I agree that you cannot replace the cap, just leave the valve cover bolt out, silicone the hole.

I don't remember any valve cover bolt attaching to the cam cap, that would be weird.

edit: Ok I looked at the pictures I had of my tear down, I would just still just leave that bolt out and give it a go.
 

Last edited by durielk; Feb 16, 2013 at 04:33 AM.
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 04:26 AM
  #13  
TNC's Avatar
TNC
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,050
From: Abilene, TX
1st Gear Member
Default

Originally Posted by DYNOBOB
He shattered around one bolt hole of the cam cap. I'd do whatever I could to repair.

I suspect the cap bores are machined at same time as head and that's why they're not sold separately.


.
Yep, caps and head are line bored as a unit. However, believe it or not, I've seen or at least heard of guys using a cap from another engine on a KLR or two over the years, and they got it to work. I remember some guy finding a KLR junkyard and going through some cam caps and plastiguaging the donors until he found something close. I think I'd search for a used engine before doing that.
 
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 03:21 PM
  #14  
chainslack's Avatar
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 94
1st Gear Member
Default

It may be possible for someone to take your head with the cap in place and rebuild that small area through machining and rebuilding by heliarcing and rethreading. I am supposing this as I have never seen the cover hole on the cam caps and don't know for sure the danger of the heating to other close components. I cracked a cam cap on my z1 when I was a kid while putting the cams back in. Pit Stop in Central Fl (I'll call it welding) welded the crack almost fully across the top diagonally (Franken cap scar) on the 4 bolt the cap all same reasons caps and head bored as a unit. I was freaked especially when came time to unbolt and rebolt again but it never missed a lick. The z1 had babbit bearings in the head and caps with a low psi high volume oil system. I imagine these bikes are non babbit.

Hang in there

Steve
 
Old Feb 17, 2013 | 12:08 PM
  #15  
ortme's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 10
From: Maryland
Default Got a Tig weld repair

I took the camshaft cap to a local aluminum welder here in Rockville, Maryland and he place a welded of material on the cap. Then to a friend who is a retired mechanic and we measured and drilled threading into the new weld material. Placed helicoils into a three threads on the camshaft. I bolted it all together and will test for a leak when I get a new gasket and head bolt washers.
I have lots of cell phone picture and will atempt to load then into this site, as a picture is worth........(you know)
 
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 03:35 AM
  #16  
duncanblake's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 96
From: Marin County, California
Default

WOW! That cam cap is a plain bearing and it's clearance and shape are pretty critical to having the correct oil pressure and volume the cam bearing surface MUST HAVE!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Nikolaj Lykke
KLX 250S
11
Jun 19, 2013 08:51 PM
durielk
KLX 250S
10
Jul 29, 2011 03:24 PM
jglow
KLX 250S
10
Mar 6, 2010 10:28 PM
jaylaudeman
KLX 250S
15
Aug 31, 2008 04:28 AM
jamieislimegreen
Ninja 500R
12
Mar 16, 2007 10:41 AM




All times are GMT. The time now is 10:11 AM.