Hey again,
It worked for almost a year no problems.
I tried messing with the setings made green 0.5. No difference. I am gonna try taking the green blue value hight to about 7 so the stock fueling with not be modified untill higher rpm so idle starting will be stock. Will update. Anyhow its definately the controller cause without it it works fine.

 

update:
tried many settings. some help abit some not. thing is bike is still not easy to start when warm. and its not a fun thing to get stuck in the dirt for 1-2 HP. so i decided the ejk and the o2 sensor bypass are not worth it and got back to stock. only mod now is no shnorkel.
this bike really misses some torque at the low - mid rpm.. and its kind of anemic. maybe its time to move on.. thanks for the help though...

 

Yes it is a pity. The EJK only really makes a big difference on the 300/331/351 big bores, where it will not run without one.
The only way really to get some grunt out of the EFI bikes is with a Big Bore. Then they really come alive!
On the 250 you really need to go all the way with air filter, backfire screen, second butterfly, header and tailpipe. All unfortunately big money for small gains. I spent a bomb on my little Kawasaki looking for ponies.
Now to get real horsepower that makes my teeth bleed, for small money, I bought low mileage second hand race machines from guys needing money, so it does not matter anymore that my beloved Kawasaki is light in the pants.

 

Hey guys i’m not sure how make my own post so i’m just replying to this one but.. I’m having a problem when I start my bike and ride it for however long then kill it with the switch the red Fi light comes on and when i go to start it back up it just seems to crank. Then I turn the key off and on the bike fires right up but has a low idle. It is a 2019 klx250. it has an ejk and fmf q4 on it. Could it be a problem with the EJK??
SOS!! any help would be greatly appreciate