Yeah, like I said, NOT a venting issue....LOL Geez guys, read what I said, please. Gas cap OFF the tank and this continued to happen. Once it dies, it fires right back up for a minute or so, then dies again. Vents on And In carb are clear. I've done hunderds of carbs in my day, trust me when I say, NOT a fuel issue. I know you guys don't know me, and your trying to help, I really do appreciate that though.

 

2nd line in my first post. Yes, I saw them. But still very pricey on a "maybe". Thanks though.

 

Aight Werloc, lets break it down then -

"Bike starts and runs great. But after riding 7 miles, the bike dies. No warning, no spudder, just engine stops running. Doesn't matter what speed or rpm range."

How repeatable is this 7 mile thing? Is it repeatable regardless of ambient temps? / Fuel tank level? / etc etc.. Can you make the bike fail sooner or later by juggling the conditions of a "ride" ? Obviously going on only what you stated above, this could be EITHER a heat related electrical component failure or a fuel starvation issue - so more info to narrow this down would be nice. You can easily make the bike run hotter sooner than usual AND vice versa..

" Roll to a stop, it starts up, and runs fine for a minute or so, then cuts out again. Sometimes it's dead for a few seconds, sometimes a minute or 2.... Starts, goes a few hundred feet, dies, and will repeat this over and over. But the longer it sits after it dies, the longer it runs until it dies."

You don't say how you manage to get home! What is the eventual outcome whereby you aren't being eaten by a pack of wolves? Did you figure out how to get it to run another "7" miles - and forgot to include the info ?
But lets look at what we do know - given the data above, it seems to be either a heat related electrical component failure/glitch OR fuel starvation. SO we have nothing new to help us out..

So, perhaps leave the seat unbolted, when it dies, see if it'll run on a steady stream of starting fluid sprayed on the filter.. If so, problem found.. PWJM would have you carry a propane bottle on your back to test with..

If temp related, It should fail sooner, for instance, if run at steady RPM (say 2400) on it's kick stand..

 

I'm with other riders when this happened. So sat and waited for them to notice I'm no longer with them, 10 minutes later they returned back to me after turning back. After talking about the issue for 5 minutes, 15 minutes gone by, I head back to my truck to load up and drive 1 1/2 hours home. I head back to my truck at about the speed and rpm with 1 or 2 dies, but restarts before rolling to a stop with clutch in. That being said, exactly the same distance back to truck as it was from truck to where it died. The second time/day it happened, I didn't expect it because I had gone through carb, tank, and fuel system finding a little dirt so thought it was fixed. I haven't taken it out yet here at home because to top it off, when I pull bike out of my trailer Monday morning, my front tire was flat. So I need to fix that in order to test run it around my house. Running on the lift is a great idea. And thats why I posted. Two or more heads are better than 1. I'm to the point where I'm fustrated and not thinking clear anymore....lol I walked away from it for today after going over it for 5 hours today already and a few hours yesterday.

No spudder, not even a hickup, just dies suddenly like the key was turned off. This is why I'm thinking electrical. Plus the fact that I completely and thoroghly when through the fuel system, including ventalation.

 

There is lots of tests to be done with a flat front tire - You're too close to the situation and must step back to basic testing and diagnosis of how/when the issue arises..

 

Well, following the factory service manual, I already tested stator, coil, regulator, ground, my kickstand and clutch bypass's, alot of the wiring and taping what was checked to avoid waisting time double and triple checking. All plugs, and connections, etc. Carb and fuel system done and ok, so far. I will run it on the lift in 3rd gear, but that's a pretty long time until it cuts out for running on a stand. I guess its ok to do. Why am I concerned about that? No airflow through the radiator?

Is there a safety engine cut off if running to hot on this bike? I know there's a temp warning light, but will it shut down if ignored or light isn't working? My Ducati would shut off. If this has that, I should test that circut. Pretty shure its not running hot. My fan works (tested ok), but hardly ever kicks on. Bike always ran cool.

 

How about installing a cheap "inline ignition spark checker"? I don't know if the engine will run with one of these installed.

90° Inline Ignition Spark Checker

Is there an online schematic for your bike I can look at to see what circuits could cause the ignition to die, such as interlocks or power from the ignition switch? A cheap voltmeter connected to those parts of the circuit may tell you what changes when the engine dies.

Ride on
Brewster

 

Not on the diagram and no one has ever mentioned one.

 

Hey, First off, Thanks everyone for chiming in to help.

I looked at wiring diagram for something that may cut power to ignition as safety overheat. Didn't notice anything. The only thing related is that Interlock Diode Unit, looks like a small relay under seat on rear fender. Think thats for kickstand and clutch safety switches.

I did think about getting an inline spark tester. Hooking it up with my video cam recording it. This would show me if it's electrical for sure. I would need to record it cuz it happens and able to restart before I'm able to get off the bike to look at, or do anything. Cutting out for only a few seconds isn't enough time to do anything. I'm also not sure if it will run with this tester on. You would think that's what it's made for thoug. Yeah, $8 bucks at Auto Zone.

 

Just a idea but you could hook a multimeter to the stator and strap the meter to your speedo. Set the meter to ac and with the leads before the reg/rec you should find the ac voltage. Ride the bike and when is shuts down leave the clutch out and let the chain spin the engine over. Does it make ac voltage? If the cdi is bad you will still have ac being generated.

A small scope to watch the wave form would be best but a meter will work.

This failure is very common in outboard engines