big bore jetting?

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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 10:06 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Klxster
@700ft with slipon and lid off, a 250 is too lean with DJ 132/4N, Still a little lean with DJ136/5N/4turns out - but very much more powerful. Getting your AFR correct @700ft with the DJ kit will likely require a jet larger than the 136.. If it were mine, I'd order a DJ 138 or 140, set the needle on 5N, fully uncover the pilot jet(#35) with 4 turns out on the fuel screw, pull the lid and Dyno it for a good AFR chart.. My data would indicate that you'll be close - maybe perfect. Also, analyzing my charts, it looks like any extra pull through the CV causes it to go lean.
is this with the 331big bore? thats what i will be running.
 
Old Feb 11, 2015 | 06:12 PM
  #12  
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As I said, my data is for a standard bore.. Actually I wouldn't bother with a DJ 138.. If it were mine, I'd test first with a DJ140.. I do not have data for a 331 so this is my opinion based on my data for the 250.. I do know when there is extra draw through the CV and there are no lids and snorkels in the way, it goes lean.
 

Last edited by Klxster; Feb 11, 2015 at 06:17 PM.
Old Feb 12, 2015 | 12:27 PM
  #13  
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I would start with the recommended DJ setup and work from there. the 132 was wayyy to rich for my 331 @ 1200ft and i went back down to the 128 i had with the stock bore. many others have had similar experiences.
klxster has had good luck apparently with the large jets, but there are too many variables to say for sure that his experiences are not an isolated case.

YMMV
 
Old Feb 12, 2015 | 02:51 PM
  #14  
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Not trying to start a war but exactly what variables are you referring to that would cause my dyno tuned CVK setup to not apply to any other properly running stock CVK near sea level? Minor adjustments for humidity extremes, temperature extremes, or personal preference? With over 6 months worth of dyno runs on the same dyno and with more an more members using my data to redefine KLX 250 performance, I'm hoping you "old guys" will try the data supported options this "old guy" has provided - or perhaps dyno chart and document your setup.

I hate offering opinions that don't exactly match my data, but his is pretty close - So, just how lean do you want his 331 kit to run? If he pulls the lid on standard stage II, his first jaunt to redline could be his last.
 

Last edited by Klxster; Feb 12, 2015 at 03:04 PM.
Old Feb 12, 2015 | 08:15 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Klxster
Not trying to start a war but exactly what variables are you referring to that would cause my dyno tuned CVK setup to not apply to any other properly running stock CVK near sea level? Minor adjustments for humidity extremes, temperature extremes, or personal preference? With over 6 months worth of dyno runs on the same dyno and with more an more members using my data to redefine KLX 250 performance, I'm hoping you "old guys" will try the data supported options this "old guy" has provided - or perhaps dyno chart and document your setup.

I hate offering opinions that don't exactly match my data, but his is pretty close - So, just how lean do you want his 331 kit to run? If he pulls the lid on standard stage II, his first jaunt to redline could be his last.
you have only tested one bike. there are tens of bikes on this forum running just fine with the suggested DJ settings from stock bikes to 351 big bores.

i am glad your settings are working for you. on my 331 even with the lid pulled with the 132 main i was nearly fouling my plug and getting lots of black soot building up on the tailpipe as well as a rich bog at WOT.

If there were a dyno around here and i had money to burn i would get the bike tested. as that is not possible i have to do it "old school", which told me what i already knew. the 132 was too rich for my bike.

YMMV
 
Old Feb 12, 2015 | 09:13 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by wildcard
you have only tested one bike. there are tens of bikes on this forum running just fine with the suggested DJ settings from stock bikes to 351 big bores.

i am glad your settings are working for you. on my 331 even with the lid pulled with the 132 main i was nearly fouling my plug and getting lots of black soot building up on the tailpipe as well as a rich bog at WOT.

If there were a dyno around here and i had money to burn i would get the bike tested. as that is not possible i have to do it "old school", which told me what i already knew. the 132 was too rich for my bike.

YMMV

True for me as well. The DJ128 main was too rich for me here at around 4,000 ft and up on a 351 big bore kit with sooty pipe, poor mileage and poor performance with difficulty approaching 9K rpm in the upper gears.
 

Last edited by IDRIDR; Feb 12, 2015 at 09:27 PM.
Old Feb 12, 2015 | 10:29 PM
  #17  
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I have no idea if yall's bikes are being run in a way that could benefit from my data but it looks like they aren't. You'd have to be near sea level with the lid off and a slip on running perfectly well with stage II or stock setup - as Subasaki is.. I assure you that if Subasaki was at 4k ASl I would send him to Neonarc for ideas..

As with my bike in the beginning of its' tuning, using established setups works quit well - you'd never know how much power your giving up.
 
Old Feb 13, 2015 | 01:13 AM
  #18  
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So do you think the set up difference is in the float height? Perhaps ones floats are higher causing the bike to run rich while possibly yours are lower ultimately leaning your jetting which would then need bigger jets to compensate. Just thinking out loud as I don't have a dog in the fight cause I'm running a pumper. Just trying to grasp the fourstroke side of jetting.
 
Old Feb 13, 2015 | 01:59 AM
  #19  
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Float height is extremely important for the CV to function properly - no other systems/circuits will work correctly if the float height is wrong.. luckily, mine has always been correct as built and delivered from Kawasaki - 15mm. I reset it to 14mm a few days ago in hopes of getting more power from the DG-R as the carb is still lean almost everywhere with it on.. So no, the "larger than dogma" jetting and set up is solely due to the fact that I have dyno tuned the carb - you know my charts are posted - and apparently no one else has done this.. The KLX runs perfectly well with a wide range of pilots, mains, needle positions, etc, it just doesn't make the power it's capable of. AND, I still haven't got my CV dialed in perfectly - it's still lean. For now though, I'm done playing with it as the bike runs like a raped ape.
 

Last edited by Klxster; Feb 13, 2015 at 02:02 AM.
Old Feb 13, 2015 | 05:46 PM
  #20  
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Klxster,
Do you check your float height with the tube on bottom and finding where fuel level is compared to bowl/carb interface?
 



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