It's a 2012 also, FMF Q4 with stock header, DJ kit with 128, idle 2 3/4 out, Twin Air, lid on but snorkel removed. It's at 1,700 miles that are mostly all road. The thing runs really nicely.

 

This will be an epic addition to our tuning data. You should be able to out run that bike at this point BTW..

 

I was checking out my jet kit and saw this chart. It's interesting how all the circuits come into play. I'd be curious how these circuits actually behave under different loads and rpms on our bikes specifically.

 

Helps to read the instructions.

 

I set my idle mixture about half a turn in last night, so I'm at 2 1/4 out now. I rode around about 15-20 miles and it cleaned up a lot below 3k. The MCM is starting to come together now. After I gave in a removed the air lid (wish it was a pinch quieter but what ever), went from 128 to 132 and did that half turn in on the idle mixture it feels pretty well rounded now.

I'm going to leave it like this for a few tanks of gas, if it feels about as good as I can get via Seat-O-Pants then I'll schedule the dyno day. I could tell the something was a pinch off just knowing I didn't need choke when my bike normally would, and it ran flawless before all this. Now, if its cold, the choke helps get the engine fired but I can immediately click it off and let it idle on its own. Just how it was before I touched the cams. I'm hoping this is it.

 

Well I'm around 800 miles into the MCM and haven't had any issues thus far. I went on two rides this weekend. Saturday was up by Clear Lake hitting some fire roads, good single track (wiped out really good) and my favorite part, the dry lake bed. Racked up about 130 miles on that trip. I took Monday off work and racked up another 300 miles. Rode from San Jose through the hills taking various back roads then Highway 1 to Big Sur, did 15 miles of dirt and rode home on other back roads. I'll probably need another new rear tire soon but I'll have to say I actually prefer the Shinko 244s over the factory tires in dirt or on pavement. So far I've only been on loose dirt, gravel and hard pack but they've been great. We're in a drought so I haven't hit the mud but usually I stay the hell away from mud anyway. I hate cleaning it off my bike and gear, ha. To much Jeep'n in my past.

Soon as I get a chance I'll dyno the bike and see where I'm at. So far I'll get a bog once in a while, especially if I'm modulating the throttle during wheel spin in the dirt or a hiccup during gear changes. My fuel economy seems to fluctuate more but it didn't tank like I expected it to when going from a 128 to 132 jet. I think ultimately I'll end up with a 331 and Web Cams, maybe even a pumper too.

Well what's a story with out pictures so I'll share the few I took.

Coast Road over looking Bixby Bridge.



A few of these little bridges were scattered through out the forest.



Couldn't have asked for more ideal weather along the Pacific Coast.



Lastly, this was coming out of Mendocino NF into Clear Lake.

 

Nice pics. Kaliforn has the beauty..

I hope you are still planning on dyno testing both bikes..?
Have you ridden both back to back to assess the differences in power/powerbands..?

 

Yeah we definitely have it nice here. We'll...depends but I won't get into that "other" talk now.

Also, I'll still dyno both bikes. I've been searching for cheaper places. One guy wants 110 per bike and the best I've found is 75 per bike but he's 35-40 minutes one way from me. I rode both right after doing the mod but I'd definitely have a better feel next time. I know a lot of what I'm experiencing is the carb. If I'm cruising 5 or 6 k and crack the throttle it goes good. But if I roll up past 5-6k then back off til I get back to 6k and whack the throttle it's not as crisp and sometimes sluggish. I guess what I'm getting at is I notice a lot when I'm corner carving or really flogging it on the trails. Constantly grabbing gears and fluctuating the revs. I know from owning a carbureted car with a manual tranny you can definitely induce a drive ability problem. For example bogging it and smashing the throttle with my 4 barrel and mechanical secondaries. Or being really aggressive with the throttle and causing the accelerator pumps to choke the engine a bit by repeatedly smashing the throttle. Obviously there is no point to drive like that but after owning it for 12 years you try dumb **** just to see what it does. Non the less I friggn love the KLX but I think the carb issue needs to be sorted out.

 

Ok, some thoughts.. Premise: Rolling up past 5-6k , then letting it settle back to 6k, then rolling on again produces issues - That sounds like fuel flow/needle seat/float level issues. Perhaps the 1st roll depletes the bowl of its' fuel to the point that the next roll goes lean...? At a 6k cruise the bowl fuel level is stable enough to support a WOT roll but will it support multiple quick WOT rolls ? If not then I think you may be seeing fuel starvation.

 

I'll have to pay attention to how many "roll ons" I can get. I think your on the right track of being lean. To me it's the transition that seems to give me issues. If I were to imagine what's going on in the carb the first thing that comes to mind is the needle and more so the diaphragm. It seems like it gets caught up in the mix of the throttle plate opening and closing and it can't adjust to the changes in vacuum effectively. I understand how the diaphragm works in relation to fuel flow and vacuum but I have no idea how quickly it's suppose to react or if it even reacts directly to every pressure change or if it just averages out to changes in throttle. That's a helluva run sentence. But anyway, I guess there isn't much to over analyze if it works and the needle is correct.

If I were to compare it to a car the first thing I'd check after float level would be the accelerator pumps. I guess I'd check ignition timing and the distributor advance for proper operation but that doesn't apply here. Non the less you can probably understand what I'm experiencing. I will say this doesn't completely rule out float level but the bike pulls fine up long hills and any where in the rpms as long as I'm not to aggressive with the throttle position. It hiccups or hesitates with sudden large changes. Maybe I'm just being picky. LoL

Lastly I'm going to try other fuel grades. Pre MCM my bike got its best MPG on 87, mileage tanked on 89 and 91 was in between but offers the best throttle response under most conditions.