Best oil?
#11
11-30-2010, 04:45 PM
Mobile 1 4T 10W-40. I usually change every 1000 miles or whenever I remember. My Kawi only has 3000 miles and change and I bought it at 1000 so I've only changed it once so far, and the old oil was very clean from whatever type the PO put in it.
Maybe it's just a placebo, but I like Mobile 1 and their products. I've used Mobile 1 5W-30 in my Honda Civic, and it still drives like the day I bought it now with 170,XXX on the ticker. My Honda or Kawi don't burn or use any oil, so in my mind Mobile products are a fairly good quality for the price. I'm sure there are others that are just as good if not better for a cheaper price, but not worth my effort to research only to save a few dollars. After all, the Kawi only holds 1.5 quarts, even the most expensive of oils will not break your budget unless you really tack on the miles quickly.
Cheers,
Anthony
Maybe it's just a placebo, but I like Mobile 1 and their products. I've used Mobile 1 5W-30 in my Honda Civic, and it still drives like the day I bought it now with 170,XXX on the ticker. My Honda or Kawi don't burn or use any oil, so in my mind Mobile products are a fairly good quality for the price. I'm sure there are others that are just as good if not better for a cheaper price, but not worth my effort to research only to save a few dollars. After all, the Kawi only holds 1.5 quarts, even the most expensive of oils will not break your budget unless you really tack on the miles quickly.
Cheers,
Anthony
#12
12-01-2010, 01:06 AM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SW of Wichita
Posts: 129
Many thanks
Thanks to everyone for their input. I have much to ponder over but it looks like it will likely be Rotella, with draining what's in there now plus filter very soon.
I knew this particular subject might be contentious but after many years (decades, even) in aviation and automotive maintenance, I realize that some things don't cross over, such as ideal oil for a given type of machine. Since motorcycling is brand new to me, I always seek out as much info as I can get.
P.S., During a brief 10 mile ride after work today, it appears that the bike may have finally loosened up enough a little to give a slight "power bump". Yay!!!
I knew this particular subject might be contentious but after many years (decades, even) in aviation and automotive maintenance, I realize that some things don't cross over, such as ideal oil for a given type of machine. Since motorcycling is brand new to me, I always seek out as much info as I can get.
P.S., During a brief 10 mile ride after work today, it appears that the bike may have finally loosened up enough a little to give a slight "power bump". Yay!!!
#13
12-01-2010, 03:09 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: SW Ontario, Canada
Posts: 869
In the Old Days, before Castrol won the lawsuit brought by Mobil 1, the term "synthetic" really meant something. It meant the oil was made of esters or polyolefins, which have some sometimes strange interactions with seals, and can, indeed, be more lubricious.
Now that the term "synthetic" is a marketing term, not a scientific one, the old recommendation to avoid synthetics is outdated. The real reason to avoid synthetics is their cost...especially if you plan on dumping it really soon.
It just doesn't matter as much as in the old days. Tribology has come a long way in improving the additive packages, although there are some particular instances certain vehicles require specific additive packages regarding zinc levels, for instance, but, that's open to debate among the Tribologists.
I've spent hundreds of dollars on Used Oil Analysis, to the point I became convinced of my current view: too many people fret over oil choice. Use the weight suggested by the manufacturer, change it when it has sheared out of grade and/or becomes dirty, or, at least once a year. Avoid Energy Conserving oils as a general rule (although lots of motorcyclists use them without their clutches slipping), and you're not going to have lubricant-related problems, unless something breaks, gets plugged, or gets contaminated from too much fuel and/or water from condensation or injestion.
It really is that simple. BTW, I consider it a waste of money to buy name-brand motorcycle oil. Sure, many of them are good, but, few beat good old cheap Rotella....and many don't perform nearly as well as Rotella. I'll take it a step further and say MOST don't perform as well as Rotella. There are SOME true synthetics that have an edge, but, you really pay for them. I'd consider using one of them if I were to have to go more than 2000 miles without changing...say, on a trip to Alaska and back. Otherwise, it's whatever "synthetic" I find on a big sale, or Rotella 15w-40.
Now that the term "synthetic" is a marketing term, not a scientific one, the old recommendation to avoid synthetics is outdated. The real reason to avoid synthetics is their cost...especially if you plan on dumping it really soon.
It just doesn't matter as much as in the old days. Tribology has come a long way in improving the additive packages, although there are some particular instances certain vehicles require specific additive packages regarding zinc levels, for instance, but, that's open to debate among the Tribologists.
I've spent hundreds of dollars on Used Oil Analysis, to the point I became convinced of my current view: too many people fret over oil choice. Use the weight suggested by the manufacturer, change it when it has sheared out of grade and/or becomes dirty, or, at least once a year. Avoid Energy Conserving oils as a general rule (although lots of motorcyclists use them without their clutches slipping), and you're not going to have lubricant-related problems, unless something breaks, gets plugged, or gets contaminated from too much fuel and/or water from condensation or injestion.
It really is that simple. BTW, I consider it a waste of money to buy name-brand motorcycle oil. Sure, many of them are good, but, few beat good old cheap Rotella....and many don't perform nearly as well as Rotella. I'll take it a step further and say MOST don't perform as well as Rotella. There are SOME true synthetics that have an edge, but, you really pay for them. I'd consider using one of them if I were to have to go more than 2000 miles without changing...say, on a trip to Alaska and back. Otherwise, it's whatever "synthetic" I find on a big sale, or Rotella 15w-40.
#14
12-01-2010, 03:25 AM
Or, perhaps, just maybe, there's a slight chance we're not.
#15
12-01-2010, 05:59 AM
You think maybe oil is the same kind of thing as kid's breakfast cereal? It comes in many different colors with packaging that promises the world, but in the end, it's just made from whatever they scrape off the bottom of the corn bin? 
What oil is best? The kind that's wet and slippery.
What oil is best? The kind that's wet and slippery.
#16
12-01-2010, 11:47 AM
If you drive a car, you should read the Subaru forum..... mention changing oil there and World War 3 starts
#17
12-01-2010, 03:45 PM
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 1,102
Castrol and Vavoline are good mineral oils. I personally use Mobil 1 4T 10w-40. I would like to run RoyalPurple MaxCycle 10w-40, but the cost of $16 a quart doesn't justify the means. Mobil 1 only runs about $7/qt.
FYI, Don't go to a motorcycle shop to buy engine oil. You can find the same name brand oil else where for half the cost. Unless you need fork oil or some special oil.
FYI, Don't go to a motorcycle shop to buy engine oil. You can find the same name brand oil else where for half the cost. Unless you need fork oil or some special oil.
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