Here's one that's sure to start an argument or two.

Excluding all the $ynthetic stuff, what is the best brand of oil to use? I suppose by looking at the chart in the owner's manual that 10W40 with all the correct acronyms and abbreviations is OK but really, which is the best brand to use? Whatever I start with is likely what I'll be using for the life of the engine.

Right now I have around 115 miles on my bike so the oil change is a ways off, yet, but I want to know in advance.

What's in use by all the experienced KLX250 folks? What should I not use?

 

Alot of guys here did the mototune break-in and changed the oil in the first 20 or so miles. A motorcycle specific oil is probably best for the clutch and stuff. Other than that you'll get a number of suggestions as to what is best, I like the syn stuff myself.

 

Use whatever you want to use that is a name brand of some sort.

I personally like wesson peanut oil.

 

Rotella T 15W-40

Or Rotella T6 Syn if your planning on riding in sub-zero weather (5W-40 for those cold startups), or if you just like making your wallet lighter in the summer.

I've tried all of that other crap like scamsoil or royal(ly screwing you on the price) color and seen no difference. I know people who use Rotella in multi-hundred of thousand dollar equipment and have done so for years so that combined with my own results is enough to have convinced me, also the fact that it is now officially JASO-MA certified, i won't use anything else.

 

Rotella 15w-40 is one of the better choices. It's relatively inexpensive, it's ALMOST a 50 weight, so as it shears, it holds 40 weight grade a bit better than many other mineral oils. The Used Oil Analysis of Rotella has proven to be good over many types of motorcycles over many years....so, it's proven itself to be good.

Personally, I'll run Rotella in my bikes in the winter, but, usually run whatever "synthetic" 20w-50 I find on sale in the summer. Most "synthetics" are simply Group III severely hydrocracked mineral oils, so, they aren't so different from a good, balanced mostly Group II oil like Rotella.

Don't overthink it. Spending more than Rotella costs is probably not going to result in a significant difference in longevity, nor performance, over buying more expensive oil....no matter what the label says.

 

Do as you wish. I would change the oil now. Get that stuff out of there and put in fresh. I will be changing mine every 1,000 miles. I am a road rider only. I use name brand 10W 40. It only holds 1.5 quarts, so change away.

Hold off on the synthetic until at least 1,000 miles. Let the engine break in.

David

 

In the Old Days, before Castrol won the lawsuit brought by Mobil 1, the term "synthetic" really meant something. It meant the oil was made of esters or polyolefins, which have some sometimes strange interactions with seals, and can, indeed, be more lubricious.

Now that the term "synthetic" is a marketing term, not a scientific one, the old recommendation to avoid synthetics is outdated. The real reason to avoid synthetics is their cost...especially if you plan on dumping it really soon.

Take my bike for example, which I bought used with 45 miles on it. I rode it home, reaching speeds of over 70 mph indicated, then changed the oil to Valvoline 20-50 "synthetic", and not the motorcycle version. Valvoline is NOT one of the better performing synthetics out there, but, I got it for about 2.50 per quart. I rode the bike fairly hard the next 825 miles, and had zero oil loss that I could discern. I put in Bill Blue's 331 kit, left the Valvoline in there, rode it about 50 miles...gently for the first 5, then fairly vigorously the next 50. Changed it to Rotella 15-40, rode it hard for 100, then, changed back to the Valvoline synthetic 20-50. Been riding it hard ever since.

Just completed the Barstow-Vegas leg of the LA-Barstow-Vegas ride, and had it wide open in 4th gear a lot during the day (miles of deep sandy terrain, with whoops!). I now have about 1400 miles on it...oil is dead steady right at the top of the glass viewport, just like when I filled it up.

It just doesn't matter as much as in the old days. Tribology has come a long way in improving the additive packages, although there are some particular instances certain vehicles require specific additive packages regarding zinc levels, for instance, but, that's open to debate among the Tribologists.

I've spent hundreds of dollars on Used Oil Analysis, to the point I became convinced of my current view: too many people fret over oil choice. Use the weight suggested by the manufacturer, change it when it has sheared out of grade and/or becomes dirty, or, at least once a year. Avoid Energy Conserving oils as a general rule (although lots of motorcyclists use them without their clutches slipping), and you're not going to have lubricant-related problems, unless something breaks, gets plugged, or gets contaminated from too much fuel and/or water from condensation or injestion.

It really is that simple. BTW, I consider it a waste of money to buy name-brand motorcycle oil. Sure, many of them are good, but, few beat good old cheap Rotella....and many don't perform nearly as well as Rotella. I'll take it a step further and say MOST don't perform as well as Rotella. There are SOME true synthetics that have an edge, but, you really pay for them. I'd consider using one of them if I were to have to go more than 2000 miles without changing...say, on a trip to Alaska and back. Otherwise, it's whatever "synthetic" I find on a big sale, or Rotella 15w-40.

 

Hahahaha new guy asking a loaded question knowing full well that it would indeed start a posting war....I like it. you will fit in well here. LOL

 

Oh by the way, Amsoil Synthetic for the win.....

 

It is only 1.5 quarts, or, is it liters? Either way, oil is not a very expensive part of maintenance in these engines, so, it's hard to argue against using relatively expensive "synthetics".

Except for new engines, or after rebuilds, it's also probably smart to change the oil filter every OTHER oil change, unless you're going long distances between changes (say...3000 or more miles). Filters get MORE efficient as they are seasoned, up to the point that they begin to bypass...but, filters don't clog up very fast if the bike is jetted correctly, ridden until they are good and hot, air filter is cleaned as needed, and the oil is changed regularly.

The message I'm trying to give is: Oil selection isn't as big a deal as it was 20+ years ago.