Any broken subframes b/c of Rotopax?

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Old Sep 1, 2016 | 11:26 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Oldad
Not stupid at all. As you drive it inside the subframe tube it will straighten out, but will retain some residual stress that will help it conform to the slight bend in the subframe when it reaches it's proper position. Or, forget about the pre-bend and drive in a straight tube. It will impart a certain amount of stress into the bend of the subframe, though, but may not matter. Thin wall 1/2 inch metal conduit is close to the right size.

Yes my right side brace is a little longer for extra strength. I also had to weld a tab further back on the subframe to accommodate the larger brace.

Ok, that makes sense.

All I could find for tubing is stainless steel tube. Might be a good thing with this wet and humid climate. How thin did you go? I have 1mm and 1.5mm The 1mm looks to go in without much force. The 1.5 might need a bit of lube to get it all the way in.

Instead of welding a brace on, I'm thinking to do something less permanent. (laws here say technically you cannot modify a bike in any way. On the off chance I sell the bike, it would be looked over by an inspector before the title can change hands)

I came across this guy's mod for a DRZ: Suzuki DR-Z400S Frame Brace - webBikeWorld

I believe I can make something similar with the KLX. I've got some strong shelving frame that should do the job. I'm going to try and use some pipe clamps to bolt it to the subframe and that tubing that surrounds the battery box. (about the same location you welded your tube to) I could use the helmet lock mounting point, but not sure how strong it is. And I'd rather mount it a bit further back.

Will see how this goes tomorrow.
 
Old Sep 1, 2016 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
Did you find a thread by Redpillar? He beefed up his subframe too and worth a look.
Yes, I saw that one. I hadn't thought it could crack at that location. Contemplating if I should try to beef up that area too...
 
Old Sep 1, 2016 | 11:32 AM
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To relieve some of the weight from my subframe, I'm also in the process of making something similar to what this guy did, homemade tank panniers.

Homemade Tank Bags - Motorbike Tank Panniers

I've seen some guys use modified ATV tank bags, but I haven't found one I like. Just bought a couple military style "assault packs" from AliExpress. Should be fun making these.
 
Old Sep 1, 2016 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by outrecording
Instead of welding a brace on, I'm thinking to do something less permanent. (laws here say technically you cannot modify a bike in any way. On the off chance I sell the bike, it would be looked over by an inspector before the title can change hands)


That's a bit crazy.


This probably would be too expensive, but it's an add-on that could be removed and is solid.

https://cycleracks.com/ProductDetail...0/Default.aspx
 
Old Sep 1, 2016 | 10:57 PM
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That cyclerack is what I got & then later modified so it wouldn't pin my foot under the bike on a 'off', well almost 'off', my ankle was still stuck under that side piping.
But I fixed it!
 
Old Sep 2, 2016 | 01:26 AM
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My rack support frame cracked under the rear fender where it's welded to the subframe. Not from carrying stuff, but from lifting the bike over logs and out of mud.
 
Old Sep 5, 2016 | 08:57 AM
  #17  
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Here's what I came up with. Also drove pipe into both sides just to be sure.

This was about the only angle I could get everything to work. It's definitely solid. If all is well I'll prime and paint the brace.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 12:20 PM
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That sir is 6-pack engineering i love it
may steal that idea when i need to carry some stuff for my next spring adventure ride.
 
Old Sep 5, 2016 | 12:40 PM
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Out.. You'll have better support using a 'L' channel than a flat plate steel. And you can use a lighter steel for the same 'equal' support to a flat plate.
Having said that, on the right side your only choice is a flat plate, go heavy there. I like the thick flat aluminum plate that was posted earlier.
 
Old Sep 5, 2016 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by durielk
Out.. You'll have better support using a 'L' channel than a flat plate steel. And you can use a lighter steel for the same 'equal' support to a flat plate.
Having said that, on the right side your only choice is a flat plate, go heavy there. I like the thick flat aluminum plate that was posted earlier.
Oh yeah, it is an "L" channel. Hard to see from that angle. I scavenged it from some unused AC window mounting frame I've had for years. Not beautiful but should get the job done.
 



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