Sure, what the heck. On the to-do list...
New rear sprocket (49 to 45)
Grease bearings
Electrical stuff (the right blinker doesn't work properly...probably the result of WUI; install fuse in the grip heater circuit; fix headlight to run both beams on high, maybe remove all that extra ground block & wiring from the front ala Dan888)
Some kind of noise reduction insert for the HMF can
Rear rack & subframe mods (your subframe is different from the 2006)

 

or 4. All the above.

I just put an infra red heater over my work bench so I am going to start pulling mine apart next week. I might do the valves while cooking the christmas dinner

 

Cylinder hitched a ride yesterday to Wichita. Sweeet .
Clutch plates are on back order.
Fiddlin around to pass the time.

Wheel off, left side


and right



Right side spacer is marked on the outside. Should be able to see "R" if you look close.



It was lubrimicated last year...just checking it out.







49 Tooth rear sprocket is going on the auction block. Less than 3,500 miles, always lubed, and in very good shape. Interested?



Found one nick that should be touched up



49 v 45



JT sprockets Part numbers

 

Good stuff! You got me itchin to wrench

I think I'm going to do one more ride this weekend then start the winter overhaul.

Let me know how the kick-starter install goes.. It's one of my wishlist mods...

Good luck

 

Ya thanks ID, as soon as giftsmass is done and forgotten I will dig into mine too.

 

A little update.
Haven't done any work on the bike. Busy dealing with other crap.

Bill has the cylinder done and it will be in the mail tomorrow, so I may be getting back on task here soon. We spoke about break-in. He suggests one complete heat cycle (fully warm the bike in the shop, shut down, let it fully cool), then an "easy" break-in for the first tank of gas (100 miles). I just did a little googling and found these for your reading pleasure.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

New Engine Break-in Procedure

New Motorcycle Break-In Procedure

Proper Engine Break-In

Any thoughts on break-in?

 

Go by Bill's advice. Be sure to do a lot of engine braking in that first tank. Smooth on and off the throttle. Try to not keep the RPM's constant for too long..

After the first tank, I'd do an oil change, then drive it like you stole it.

That's basically what I did on mine.. After first 50 miles of easy riding, the next 50 I did a forest loop with gnarly hill climbs and high-speed logging roads..

Thousands of miles later and the motor runs perfect, no oil burning, and I even peeked in at the cylinder walls and they look brand new - cross hatch marks and all.. FWIW.

 

This ^^^ you want to be sure to load and unload the rings as much as possible during the initial run in.

 

I tend to be more vigorous in my engine "run-in" than many. Especially if it's just rings and not the entire engine. Good engine-braking as well as "firm" acceleration, and you'll seat the rings well. I can run my 331 at over 7000rpms for an extended time, and I cannot detect any oil loss at all.

 

I have been using the "Moto Tune" process for years and NEvER had an issue.
you need to seat the rings, period!!!! If you baby the motor or let it idle for a half hour thinking you are breaking it in, you are very wrong. Run it, make it work under load both on and off throttle.