Adjusting valves, found trouble!
#11
Get better photos, inc side on shot of the bucket, get onto Kawasaki show them the photos. Let the dealer know what they have done and tell them you are taking it up with Kawasaki. Cover all your bases. I agree with tremor check valves stem, seats, barrel, piston etc. Drain your oil and keep it for possible testing.
The side has no blueing at all. I really do not think this was from overheating. I am worried about the valve and spring though. I will check them out this afternoon.
Has anyone else seen this on their tappets when checking valves?
#12
If the dealer had to use that thick of a shim, it sort of points to the valve not closing all the way due to the seat, stem or guide. It's also hard to imagine the valve spring set creating enough seat pressure to dish the tappet that way if everthing else is OK.
I would pull the head to check that out..but that's just me
#13
Good advice Tremor. I recommend the same checks.
Another thing to think about, maybe the valve stem is bent. Either way, something is not right and its best to remove the cylinder head for better inspection.
Another thing to think about, maybe the valve stem is bent. Either way, something is not right and its best to remove the cylinder head for better inspection.
#14
Don't vector out of the problem, Hancadam. Nobody is talking about heat.
If the dealer had to use that thick of a shim, it sort of points to the valve not closing all the way due to the seat, stem or guide. It's also hard to imagine the valve spring set creating enough seat pressure to dish the tappet that way if everthing else is OK.
I would pull the head to check that out..but that's just me
If the dealer had to use that thick of a shim, it sort of points to the valve not closing all the way due to the seat, stem or guide. It's also hard to imagine the valve spring set creating enough seat pressure to dish the tappet that way if everthing else is OK.
I would pull the head to check that out..but that's just me
Last edited by hancadam; 03-19-2009 at 03:36 AM.
#15
After looking at the cam better once I removed it, the lobe is worn badly. Tomorrow when I get home from work I am going to pull the top end off. A bent valve stem sounds like a possiblity. I agree that something is putting a lot of pressure on that valve and cam lobe, and I don't think the spring has that kind of power. What else should I be looking for once I have it torn apart that could possibly cause this?
Also since my bike is still under warrenty what should I do? Should I just suck it up and pay for it knowing I will do it right or should I take it to the dealer? I have a slip on, rejetted carb, snorkel removed, and klx300 header. Do these items void the warranty? By me working on the engine myself, does that void the warranty?
Thanks for all the help, very appreciated.
Also since my bike is still under warrenty what should I do? Should I just suck it up and pay for it knowing I will do it right or should I take it to the dealer? I have a slip on, rejetted carb, snorkel removed, and klx300 header. Do these items void the warranty? By me working on the engine myself, does that void the warranty?
Thanks for all the help, very appreciated.
#16
Another piece of the puzzle. This is not the valve the dealer adjusted. I removed the shim on the other valve and it was a hotcams shim. I doubt its factory, but could be wrong. So something else has happend since the dealer serviced it. Also, all 3 of the other tappets have a very small pit on top where the cam rides as well. Nothing like the one pictured, just a pit about the size of a ball pen tip. I am going to replace the other three just to make sure.
I am dumb founded on what could have caused this. My bike has 5000 miles on it and the oil has been changed 8 times. Its barely been off road. I have held it WOT a bit, maybe this has contributed to the problem.
So far I know I need an exhaust cam, 3 more tappets, and head gasket. We will see what other surprises I find tomorrow.
I am dumb founded on what could have caused this. My bike has 5000 miles on it and the oil has been changed 8 times. Its barely been off road. I have held it WOT a bit, maybe this has contributed to the problem.
So far I know I need an exhaust cam, 3 more tappets, and head gasket. We will see what other surprises I find tomorrow.
Last edited by hancadam; 03-19-2009 at 03:29 AM.
#17
Also since my bike is still under warrenty what should I do? Should I just suck it up and pay for it knowing I will do it right or should I take it to the dealer? I have a slip on, rejetted carb, snorkel removed, and klx300 header. Do these items void the warranty? By me working on the engine myself, does that void the warranty?
Thanks for all the help, very appreciated.
Thanks for all the help, very appreciated.
If you do take it back for warranty.....I would put all the stock stuff back on and just act stupid about mods and say ...... you guys did the valve adjustment, I just decided to check them and this is what I found...WTF
#18
Ok, used a personal day from work just so I could work on my bike. I have pulled the head. The exhaust valves both seat completely. They both actually look a lot better than what I am use to. I collect and build 3 wheelers, and they are always caked with carbon. Both are pretty clean, and the top of the piston is also almost clean. The top of the piston is a light reddish/tan color, not sure if thats normal. My spark plug is a perfect tan/brown color. Nothing looks out of the ordinary. I don't have a clamp large enough to take the valves out of the head. I may run to autozone while I am out. I am going to take the head, cam, and tappet to the dealer and see what they say. I am going to see if they will just supply me a cam under warranty and me do the work. Not sure if thats possible, but I really don't want them working on it. If I have to order it I will.
On a side note: I wonder if manually making the cam chain tensioner go to the next click caused this. Do any of you think this is possible? This is the only thing I can think of that may have caused this, other then overheating or running low on oil which I dont think ever happened. I cannot see any blocks in the oil passages or line.
On a side note: I wonder if manually making the cam chain tensioner go to the next click caused this. Do any of you think this is possible? This is the only thing I can think of that may have caused this, other then overheating or running low on oil which I dont think ever happened. I cannot see any blocks in the oil passages or line.
Last edited by hancadam; 03-19-2009 at 02:57 PM.
#19
I have heard of a couple of instances of cam bearing failure........cause unknown.
Ride on
Brewster