Acerbis Handguards
#1
04-15-2006, 04:47 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 21,060
Acerbis Handguards
Hey Gravy and anyone else that has put the Acerbis hand guards with the turn signals in could you post pics and instructions here? Do I use any part of green stock hand guards? I just want a few pointers before I start this project . I also received my rear light and the flush mount turn signals. Hey Gravy did you remove the rear turn signal mounting tabs? Thanks in advance.
#2
04-15-2006, 08:25 PM
RE: Acerbis Handguards
hey deej...
the hand guards are pretty simple. the hardest part is drilling out the weights that are in the handlebar. Once you get those out its simple. The handguards just fit over the bar and screw into the end. The one by the front brake needs to be trimmed down due to the resavoir is in the way. Not a big task but take your time to make it look good.. and keep in mind to postion the brake in a place you like it.... such as mine is a bit slanted down from stock so I can get into a motorcross position and operate the brake a bit easer...
on the rear turn signals.... the place were the mount all I did was bend them so that the are out of the way... but I feel If I bend them back the will come off due to the weld. I placed the flush mount signals over the hole were the wire goes through and used black silicone to fill in the extra space for cushion and cosmitic reasons. If you do it right the rear rack handle will cover them and protect them if you have a bad spill.... and you will need the extra protection... just ask sdunne...hehe
I have some pictures of all these in my album.. if you need more let me know....
the hand guards are pretty simple. the hardest part is drilling out the weights that are in the handlebar. Once you get those out its simple. The handguards just fit over the bar and screw into the end. The one by the front brake needs to be trimmed down due to the resavoir is in the way. Not a big task but take your time to make it look good.. and keep in mind to postion the brake in a place you like it.... such as mine is a bit slanted down from stock so I can get into a motorcross position and operate the brake a bit easer...
on the rear turn signals.... the place were the mount all I did was bend them so that the are out of the way... but I feel If I bend them back the will come off due to the weld. I placed the flush mount signals over the hole were the wire goes through and used black silicone to fill in the extra space for cushion and cosmitic reasons. If you do it right the rear rack handle will cover them and protect them if you have a bad spill.... and you will need the extra protection... just ask sdunne...hehe
I have some pictures of all these in my album.. if you need more let me know....
#3
04-15-2006, 11:24 PM
RE: Acerbis Handguards
Here are the '****' directions:
Remove the old handguards and hang on garage wall...the more green the better !
Remove throttle by loosening 2 screws on the handlebar and loosening and taking the cable end off the top cable on the carb throttle plate (right side of engine, 2 10mm wrenches make it easy, count the threads so you can put it back in the guide thingy easier.) This makes it easier to put it back together up top.
Cut hole in end of grip (left side) or cut off end of grip flush with plastic throttle (right side, you don't want any rubber that can interfere with the throttle here). Use drill bit (9/16th or 5/8s, can't remember). Use center hole in the vibration damper to center the bit and drill in until you are past the spot welds. Hit it with a hammer/punch and pull it out with a magnet. I had to grind the spot welds out of the way to pull the dampers out. A similar size hole needed at end of throttle so that long bolt assembly can go on.
If you have a welder and want more strength, tacking in a ring at the end of each tube the size of the ones supplied will help with strength (the long bolt assembly will now be tight in the tube AND at the outer end so it won't move or loosen if you tag it hard. No biggee, I'm just ****.
On the left side I had to grind a groove and pull back the white plastic ring that guides the brake line. I used a tie wrap to hold the ring in the bracket with the new tension on it. My pictures are crappy but look close, you will see. When you get on the bike, the compression gives even more clearance.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
On the right side, I used 4 washers and spaced out the grip to help clear the brake res. Get a longer bolt, it is 8mmx1.25. Get one that is longer so you have enough threads. Both sides can use a longer one.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I also had to cut half of the ball off of each lever to get clearance, but that will depend on where you have the guards and levers.
Finished product:
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Remove the old handguards and hang on garage wall...the more green the better !
Remove throttle by loosening 2 screws on the handlebar and loosening and taking the cable end off the top cable on the carb throttle plate (right side of engine, 2 10mm wrenches make it easy, count the threads so you can put it back in the guide thingy easier.) This makes it easier to put it back together up top.
Cut hole in end of grip (left side) or cut off end of grip flush with plastic throttle (right side, you don't want any rubber that can interfere with the throttle here). Use drill bit (9/16th or 5/8s, can't remember). Use center hole in the vibration damper to center the bit and drill in until you are past the spot welds. Hit it with a hammer/punch and pull it out with a magnet. I had to grind the spot welds out of the way to pull the dampers out. A similar size hole needed at end of throttle so that long bolt assembly can go on.
If you have a welder and want more strength, tacking in a ring at the end of each tube the size of the ones supplied will help with strength (the long bolt assembly will now be tight in the tube AND at the outer end so it won't move or loosen if you tag it hard. No biggee, I'm just ****.
On the left side I had to grind a groove and pull back the white plastic ring that guides the brake line. I used a tie wrap to hold the ring in the bracket with the new tension on it. My pictures are crappy but look close, you will see. When you get on the bike, the compression gives even more clearance.
[IMG]
[/IMG]On the right side, I used 4 washers and spaced out the grip to help clear the brake res. Get a longer bolt, it is 8mmx1.25. Get one that is longer so you have enough threads. Both sides can use a longer one.
[IMG]
[/IMG]I also had to cut half of the ball off of each lever to get clearance, but that will depend on where you have the guards and levers.
Finished product:
[IMG]
[/IMG]
#4
04-17-2006, 06:38 PM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 21,060
RE: Acerbis Handguards
Those hand guards are different. They have a aluminum bar that goes all the way around. The Acerbis Ralley Dual Sport is just plastic, and the way it attaches to the bar is different. I got mine done last night, and wish I has figured out a way to space out the hand guard so I didn't have to cut it. I actually took a hole saw and cut out a hole for the break line to set into the hand guard. It looks OK, now on to the tail light.
deej
deej
#5
04-17-2006, 07:02 PM
RE: Acerbis Handguards
Good for you..... Yeah the cutting was kinda hard but nothing that my drumel couldnt handle.. if you dont have one of these in your tool box i suggesst you get one... they are great and I use mine for everything...
#6
04-17-2006, 09:48 PM
RE: Acerbis Handguards
I put the acerbis turn-signal hand guards on my bike. I did not have to cut anything, but it took some wrestling and some cussing to get them on (more on the throttle side). I do have after-market bars so that may change things compared to stock bars. I found out after I got the guards mounted I had to move everthing in 1/2" inch so my hand w/ glove would fit between the grip and hand guard. After I moved everything in 1/2", I was able the keep the hand guard from touching my brake master cylinder.