Acerbis Cyclops Installation
I thought I'd post my experience installing an Acerbis Cyclops...
I didn't want to use the rubber straps to attach the headlight - I wanted a more stock-like installation that mounted the light solidly to the bike. I removed the stock headlight and tried to retain the OEM bracket so I didn't have to fabricate a bracket to hold the headlight, turn signals and the Trailtech Vapor I have coming. It worked out pretty well, but the positioning leaves a little to be desired.
Wiring
The Cyclops comes with two connectors: a 3 position connector for the low beam and position light and a 2 position connector for the high beam. They supply the male and female crimp-on connectors. Note: highly recommend you get your hands on a decent crimping tool.
I chose to use only the 3-position connector with the 3 grounds on one lead, high beam on another, and low and position light on the third.

I cut the stock headlight connector off and installed the other end of the 3-position connector for the Cyclops: black/yellow for ground, red/black for high beam, and red/yellow for low beam.
Mounting
For my first attempt at positioning the light I used the supplied adjustable brackets on the upper mount on the light. I found that the bolt position for the stock headlight and the upper bolt location for the original instrument panel lined up nicely. But the lower bolt position is about 1.25" narrower than the top. I used a rubber shock absorber bushing and two large fender washers on an 8x1.25 40mm cap screw and secured it with a nylon lock nut. The bolt passes through a regular flat washer, the lower light bracket, fender washer, shock bushing, original headlight bushing and bracket, another fender washer, and the nut. Tighten down until the shock bushing bulges a bit. Note: I had to trim the bushings a bit narrow using a utility knife.

(photo shows the 8x1.25 55mm bolt I used initially - it was too long and butt-ugly)
I fired it up and checked the aim: too high, even adjusted to the furthest extent on the top bracket. To fix the problem I used 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock to fabricate new upper adjustable brackets. I had to use a file to cut the "ribs" on the bracket that help keep it in place. The new brackets are about 3/4" longer than the originals.


Once I installed the fabricated brackets the light seems to be aimed correctly.
Problems
One problem I ran into that doesn't seem to be very typical: the low beam worked for about 5 minutes then went out. I metered out everything with an ohm meter and couldn't find a problem. I suspected a broken wire on the H3 bulb the low beam uses. It wasn't until I was standing in line at the local auto parts store that I noticed that the positive lead on the bulb was grounding out to the base of the bulb - the bulb was defective. I was able to move it back to a position where it wouldn't short (but bought 2 spare bulbs just in case). This explains the 10A fuse I blew, which was a huge relief.
The only remaining problem is that the light seems too far forward by an inch or two. The only way to fix this is to fabricate a new bracket to hold both the headlight and the instrument panel. Maybe a project for another weekend.

I didn't want to use the rubber straps to attach the headlight - I wanted a more stock-like installation that mounted the light solidly to the bike. I removed the stock headlight and tried to retain the OEM bracket so I didn't have to fabricate a bracket to hold the headlight, turn signals and the Trailtech Vapor I have coming. It worked out pretty well, but the positioning leaves a little to be desired.
Wiring
The Cyclops comes with two connectors: a 3 position connector for the low beam and position light and a 2 position connector for the high beam. They supply the male and female crimp-on connectors. Note: highly recommend you get your hands on a decent crimping tool.
I chose to use only the 3-position connector with the 3 grounds on one lead, high beam on another, and low and position light on the third.

I cut the stock headlight connector off and installed the other end of the 3-position connector for the Cyclops: black/yellow for ground, red/black for high beam, and red/yellow for low beam.
Mounting
For my first attempt at positioning the light I used the supplied adjustable brackets on the upper mount on the light. I found that the bolt position for the stock headlight and the upper bolt location for the original instrument panel lined up nicely. But the lower bolt position is about 1.25" narrower than the top. I used a rubber shock absorber bushing and two large fender washers on an 8x1.25 40mm cap screw and secured it with a nylon lock nut. The bolt passes through a regular flat washer, the lower light bracket, fender washer, shock bushing, original headlight bushing and bracket, another fender washer, and the nut. Tighten down until the shock bushing bulges a bit. Note: I had to trim the bushings a bit narrow using a utility knife.

(photo shows the 8x1.25 55mm bolt I used initially - it was too long and butt-ugly)
I fired it up and checked the aim: too high, even adjusted to the furthest extent on the top bracket. To fix the problem I used 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock to fabricate new upper adjustable brackets. I had to use a file to cut the "ribs" on the bracket that help keep it in place. The new brackets are about 3/4" longer than the originals.


Once I installed the fabricated brackets the light seems to be aimed correctly.
Problems
One problem I ran into that doesn't seem to be very typical: the low beam worked for about 5 minutes then went out. I metered out everything with an ohm meter and couldn't find a problem. I suspected a broken wire on the H3 bulb the low beam uses. It wasn't until I was standing in line at the local auto parts store that I noticed that the positive lead on the bulb was grounding out to the base of the bulb - the bulb was defective. I was able to move it back to a position where it wouldn't short (but bought 2 spare bulbs just in case). This explains the 10A fuse I blew, which was a huge relief.
The only remaining problem is that the light seems too far forward by an inch or two. The only way to fix this is to fabricate a new bracket to hold both the headlight and the instrument panel. Maybe a project for another weekend.

What did you mount the turn signal lights to? Any issues fitting the instrument panel between the ignition switch and the Cyclops? I'd love to see pics of your installation. I haven't ruled out using the rubber bands yet, but not sure what I would mount the Vapor or turn signals to.
What did you mount the turn signal lights to? Any issues fitting the instrument panel between the ignition switch and the Cyclops? I'd love to see pics of your installation. I haven't ruled out using the rubber bands yet, but not sure what I would mount the Vapor or turn signals to.
I use a Vapor for instruments which is mounted using a 022-TM protector. To mount it I used a 1" handlebar riser to clear the ignition switch. The OE instruments are also very heavy.
FFS this damn forum wont even let me put in the address to my bloody pics !!!!!!!!! I'll PM you the address. Bloody hell can't even do that !!!! this forum is useless. It is censoring my post. I give up sorry
Last edited by MaverickAus; Oct 19, 2008 at 12:09 PM.
keepin the miles down? no speedo? haha
I did the same install last year, mounted the same way you did.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=17119
I did the same install last year, mounted the same way you did.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=17119
Last edited by green242; Oct 19, 2008 at 01:05 PM.
Haven't quite decided. I put the Acerbis fender on and picked up the black rear to replace the white. I'm at least going to do a black rear fender at some point. I like the green, there's just too much of it on the stock bike.


