351 Mod
OMG,
I got a chance to take the bike out for a few miles tonight. I kept it less than 4000 rpm with occasional blips to 5000. On the ride back down my driveway after returning home, I couldn't help but blip the throttle a few times in first gear. I actually kind of scared myself because the front wheel came up with AUTHORITY. That has never happened. About the only time I could wheelie the 250 version was when I pulled on it going over a rock or tree limb. This thing CAME RIGHT UP. I can only imagine it will get stronger as it gets broken in. I am a self proclaimed non-wheelie guy as I'm sure many of you can get your 250's to wheelie but I never really could. The 351 version takes all the technique out of it. Just blip the throttle and pull back slightly... then hold on and prepare for the landing! I'm thrilled.
I think I still have a little tweaking to do. It occasionally pops on decel so I'm not sure what that's about. If I recall, it did that a little with the old cylinder too, so I'm not overly concerned.
I did try adjusting the a/f screw but I'm not sure I've got it dialed in perfect. After warming the bike up, I screwed it in until the bike started to stutter, then unscrewed it, hoping that it would start to stutter again after a few turns so I could center it up but it never stuttered. It just ran fine after four turns out. I screwed it back in to around two turns and left it there. Can anyone tell me what that means?
Overall I'm pleased so far with the 351. I keep waiting for the motor to explode on me though. Like I said, I've NEVER been inside a motor. This was my first. I keep thinking I did something wrong. Nothing has started leaking yet either so I guess that's good. All the gaskets seem to be holding. I hope it stays that way.
Thanks for everyone's help on this.
I got a chance to take the bike out for a few miles tonight. I kept it less than 4000 rpm with occasional blips to 5000. On the ride back down my driveway after returning home, I couldn't help but blip the throttle a few times in first gear. I actually kind of scared myself because the front wheel came up with AUTHORITY. That has never happened. About the only time I could wheelie the 250 version was when I pulled on it going over a rock or tree limb. This thing CAME RIGHT UP. I can only imagine it will get stronger as it gets broken in. I am a self proclaimed non-wheelie guy as I'm sure many of you can get your 250's to wheelie but I never really could. The 351 version takes all the technique out of it. Just blip the throttle and pull back slightly... then hold on and prepare for the landing! I'm thrilled.
I think I still have a little tweaking to do. It occasionally pops on decel so I'm not sure what that's about. If I recall, it did that a little with the old cylinder too, so I'm not overly concerned.
I did try adjusting the a/f screw but I'm not sure I've got it dialed in perfect. After warming the bike up, I screwed it in until the bike started to stutter, then unscrewed it, hoping that it would start to stutter again after a few turns so I could center it up but it never stuttered. It just ran fine after four turns out. I screwed it back in to around two turns and left it there. Can anyone tell me what that means?
Overall I'm pleased so far with the 351. I keep waiting for the motor to explode on me though. Like I said, I've NEVER been inside a motor. This was my first. I keep thinking I did something wrong. Nothing has started leaking yet either so I guess that's good. All the gaskets seem to be holding. I hope it stays that way.
Thanks for everyone's help on this.
Armycopter that's very cool!! This thread was one of the reasons I decided to finally pull the trigger on the 351kit. Yup.., I talked to Bill Blue last Sunday and then sent off my $$ for the big bore yesterday. I'm in the same boat as you,not having any motor experience. I know it's not too crazy difficult but this thread with all the pics and advice from others will make the install easier. Bill couldn't have been nicer, and I know I can hit him up with any questions too. Did it surprise you that it fired right up and ran?, I would have been surprised. Looks like I will be a big bore *****.
Thanks for the great write up, and congrats on a job well done.
Dan
Thanks for the great write up, and congrats on a job well done.
Dan
OMG,
I think I still have a little tweaking to do. It occasionally pops on decel so I'm not sure what that's about. If I recall, it did that a little with the old cylinder too, so I'm not overly concerned.
I did try adjusting the a/f screw but I'm not sure I've got it dialed in perfect. After warming the bike up, I screwed it in until the bike started to stutter, then unscrewed it, hoping that it would start to stutter again after a few turns so I could center it up but it never stuttered. It just ran fine after four turns out. I screwed it back in to around two turns and left it there. Can anyone tell me what that means?
I think I still have a little tweaking to do. It occasionally pops on decel so I'm not sure what that's about. If I recall, it did that a little with the old cylinder too, so I'm not overly concerned.
I did try adjusting the a/f screw but I'm not sure I've got it dialed in perfect. After warming the bike up, I screwed it in until the bike started to stutter, then unscrewed it, hoping that it would start to stutter again after a few turns so I could center it up but it never stuttered. It just ran fine after four turns out. I screwed it back in to around two turns and left it there. Can anyone tell me what that means?
yes i am at sea level here in NJ.
I ride quite a bit in eastern PA mountains also.
I used the Kouba fuelscrew on my hondas and it helps when changing elevation for the mid range. I just ordered another for the KLX.
When the Kouba screw comes i'll pull the carb and swap out to the #40 pilot at the same time.
I ride quite a bit in eastern PA mountains also.
I used the Kouba fuelscrew on my hondas and it helps when changing elevation for the mid range. I just ordered another for the KLX.
When the Kouba screw comes i'll pull the carb and swap out to the #40 pilot at the same time.
Some times it's the simplest thing that can hold everything up. Dan
Armycopter
It won"t blow up. I have had mine up over 8000 RPM. The mechanic ran it for about a 1/2 an hour, then changes the oil and filter and I will do it again at 100 Miles. If it was going to blow up it would happen within the first few minutes and at any RPM. Ride that thing like you stole after the 1 hour oil and filter change.
It won"t blow up. I have had mine up over 8000 RPM. The mechanic ran it for about a 1/2 an hour, then changes the oil and filter and I will do it again at 100 Miles. If it was going to blow up it would happen within the first few minutes and at any RPM. Ride that thing like you stole after the 1 hour oil and filter change.
Ramjet, speaking of oil, I had been running synthetic prior to the 351 change. I'm running regular 10W-40 now until the break in is over. I heard that synthetic is not good during the break-in as it doesn't let the rings seat as well. Not sure if that's true but that's my plan. Plus it's cheaper to replace during the first few oil changes.
Same here then it is back to Amsoil that is all I run in all my motors. That first change is to make sure that any "big stuff is out of the circuit. The second is the fine particles form wear in or break in after that it is just like said above 3000-4500 miles if you are running Amsoil. This is based on real samples at those intervals.
Congrats on the 351 BB they sure are fun to ride.
Congrats on the 351 BB they sure are fun to ride.


