When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
In the Dyno Jet Stage 2 instructions there are 4 steps.
Number 4 States;
4. Locate the fuel mixture plug. If you see a screw head at fig. B then proceed to the adjusting procedure. With the 5/32 drill bit provided carefully drill through the plug. Note: The mixture screw is directly underneath this plug, be ready to pull back on the drill the instant you break through. Use screw provided to secure and remove this plug. Carefully turn the mixture screw clockwise until lightly sealed, then back out 3 turns.
In step 1 of your dyno tested setup, are you asking to eliminate step 4 of the dyno jet steps? Just trying to be 100% sure.
Photo 1 ..... And super glue both washers on top of the clip... If you lose one or both of those washers, you'll be calling DynoJet to order more !
It's alright to use the instructions to gain access to the fuel screw with the bit they provide - but after that, best to put those instructions in the attic.. If you are not going to replace your pilot jet with the #40, you'll be screwing that fuel screw to 3.5 turns out..
The only parts of that kit that you will use are the needle, needle clip, and both washers - all the other stuff is useless, for use on your bike.. it is a good sign that your fuel screw is still covered, your CVK likely also has a pristine slide lift port (undrilled), and a stock slide spring (mandatory for your bike).. Buyers of used bikes often have drilled out internals and non stock slide springs in their bikes - which won't work for lidless Powah !!
Photo 1 ..... And super glue both washers on top of the clip... If you lose one or both of those washers, you'll be calling DynoJet to order more !
It's alright to use the instructions to gain access to the fuel screw with the bit they provide - but after that, best to put those instructions in the attic.. If you are not going to replace your pilot jet with the #40, you'll be screwing that fuel screw to 3.5 turns out..
The only parts of that kit that you will use are the needle, needle clip, and both washers - all the other stuff is useless, for use on your bike.. it is a good sign that your fuel screw is still covered, your CVK likely also has a pristine slide lift port (undrilled), and a stock slide spring (mandatory for your bike).. Buyers of used bikes often have drilled out internals and non stock slide springs in their bikes - which won't work for lidless Powah !!
Right on! Pretty clear to me now. I called Sudco here in LA and they have a #K152 main jet so ill most likely go with that. As you said, DJ140 seems to be a bit more scarce in shops. And sorry for the confusion, by step 1 i meant Setup 1!
I went back and dissembled the carb and installed a new float. Set it at 17mm. I checked the valves I covered up and it looks like the vinyl was too thin and ripped. I replaced it and threw the carb bike on. Installed the K&N. Gave a test run and the bikes performance increased a ten fold. I no longer had the 8000rpm cap. Bike pulls hard post 6000rpm. Definitely feels like a new bike. I love it.
Thanks again for your support and guidance.
And for reference, I attached an image below of the ripped valve covers.
I got around to installing a #K158 main jet along with the Megabomb header this weekend. Fuel screw @ 2 turns out. The power is lovely. Except now I'm having a real hard time starting it cold. Current weather for us here in LA is around 50 degrees Fahrenheit @ 6-7am. Before installation, I had no problem starting her up in the morning.
Nope, the main jet has no impact on starting at all.. Please update your information on your signature line - with the megabomb and K158 - so I can easily see what your are running..
You're now maxed out - the most power and best power curves that can be had with a stockbore and the CVK.. In case you're not sure, it is expected that, compared to what you had with the stock header setup, your low end, from Idle to around 4k rpm, is a little softer - but with significant improvements everywhere else, all the way to 10,500 rpm.. Running her to 10.5k rpm, through the gears, up to, perhaps over, 100mph ought to be a eye-opener..!
You are not the only one that "all the sudden" has starting issues in the cooler weather. I assume everyone knows that cold weather will create a different starting experience than warm weather, so I also assume we are talking about extremely hard cold starting here - the kind that suggests a problem somewhere..
Before we assume you created a fault during the main jet install session, lets get some things checked and or set up correctly.
1. Warm up engine to full operating temp, make note of and report your idle speed. Adjust idle speed to exactly 1250 - 1300 rpms.
2. Open the carb bowl drain - let fuel drain through the carb - if your gas is more than two days old, let 1/2 cup drain onto the ground, less if your gas is newer.. Turn off the petcock and leave carb drain open.
3. With the engine cold, do a cold start test: Open the petcock, allow a few ounces of fuel to drain through the carb onto the ground, close the carb bowl drain and pull the choke on. Wait 5 seconds and, without touching the throttle, hit the starter.
4. Report any changes (with cold starting) from before..
07-05-2018, 02:52 AM
