2012 KLX250S Dyno Tuning w FMF Exhaust System

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  #31  
Old 06-06-2015, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lenman73
Can I ask then are you a fan of the DG with the stock header then ? And what are your thoughts about that with the larger snorkel mod and say a more breathable air filter ?

I am not looking at going crazy and expecting another 20 h.p. or anything. Just trying to help it breathe a bit better. My next question is what did it do to your fuel milage with all the testing you have done with different pipes and jets. If I put a slip-on on and rejet it will the milage go in the crapper ?

Thanks.
Lenman

if you search my name here I did some sound comparisons with stock exhaust system maybe back in november last year dont really remember
dg muffler, stock header
dg muffler, clone bomb header
at idle, using my meter which is not the official one the rangers and police use
my exhaust system really wasnt much louder then stock, since our bike idle at the high range when someone tests you im still under that max (with my meter)
But yes its loud when riding but sounds aggressive not crazy loud like harleys




and used an air fuel meter to tune my main jetting, also went up a size in the pilot jet to reduce the popping on deceleration if you look at my sig line shows what I used

also modded the stock air box lid I think a 3x3 hole im sure I posted somewhere the size
only because I had access to the air fuel meter it was easier to mod the lid then to rejet higher to get my numbers richer when I had the lid removed

I can go little over 70 miles before I hit reserve
all depends if I did any freeway or fast riding
maybe could squeeze out more if I rode slow, but thats not fun now
 
  #32  
Old 06-06-2015, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Michaelb2
I have the needle coming in the mail. Just need to source the main and pilot.
I called Dynojet today. Those silly things are just $2 plus shipping. Heading to the dealer tomorrow to see if they have the pilots.
 
  #33  
Old 06-06-2015, 03:33 AM
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Hey MikeW, have you been keeping up with my dyno tuning saga? I've found big HP especially in the mid/upper RPM range by finally geting the top end AFR correct..

If your running that DG-O without the quiet insert, try dropping in a DJ140 and pull the lid - keep the needle at 3N.. We're talking "biggy" HP all the way to redline..
 

Last edited by Klxster; 06-06-2015 at 03:46 AM.
  #34  
Old 06-06-2015, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Klxster
Hey MikeW, have you been keeping up with my dyno tuning saga? I've found big HP especially in the mid/upper RPM range by finally geting the top end AFR correct..

If your running that DG-O without the quiet insert, try dropping in a DJ140 and pull the lid - keep the needle at 3N.. We're talking "biggy" HP all the way to redline..
No I haven't logged in for a while
and just checked in today

although I did borrow my friends af meter and still have it here im fine with how the bike has been performing since the time I checked my jetting
if the carb was just a little easier to get to maybe, but im good
my mpg is already horrible enough

To me its just fine how it performs for how I ride it
 
  #35  
Old 06-06-2015, 11:53 AM
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Would I need to worry about the pilot jet with the stock header ?
 
  #36  
Old 06-06-2015, 02:10 PM
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Probably not.
 
  #37  
Old 06-06-2015, 02:50 PM
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I did find that clone bomb header I used made the exhaust quieter too
if you were worried about sound level
 
  #38  
Old 07-04-2018, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Klxster

1. Lidless + MCM or not + Stock Header with Slip-on Silencer OR KLX300 exhaust system(uncorked):Use a DJ140 or K152 main jet, needle clip at 1N, stock slide lift hole/port and stock slide spring - for max power near sea level.

KLXster,

Is this tuning still accurate? I am in Los Angeles. V close to sea level. My Powercore 4 is arriving early next week. Plan on installing the exhaust and DJ2152 kit myself. Bike is stock. I've only removed the snorkel so far. Eventually Ill do MCM. Maybe all at the same time. Still debating that.

And is there any true difference in performance when using the DJ140 vs K152 main jet?

Thank you for all the shared knowledge. I see you everywhere on this forum!
 
  #39  
Old 07-04-2018, 04:00 AM
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The two setup recipes are "set in stone" - created on the dyno with my bike, and with years of proven effectiveness on member bikes,. All anyone has to do is follow the directions to the letter - with absolutely no deviations - and the results are "guaranteed"..

Obviously, any bike that does not run well must be fixed before any CVK or other performance mods can begin.. These two setups do not heal sick CVK's - they'll make them worse !!

Use a #40 pilot jet near sea level.

I did not test with the K152. But the conversion chart (below) has proven to be accurate in DJ140=K152 and the other recipe calling for DJ144=K158. Why not just order a DJ140, or find one at a local motorcycle dyno shop, and be at ease..I am personally quite sure that a K152 is perfectly fine - and easier to find at the parts and dyno shops..

Many folks botch a carb setup session and end up with a bike that doesn't run right until they go back in and manage to fix their mistake(s). Don't be one of those folks. Read my link below on CVK34 issues before tackling the job - you might not understand every thing in the thread right now, but you will sure know more about the crap some peeps foul up during a CVK setup session than you do now..lol

Bolt on your PC4, yank off the airbox lid, remove and deactivate the air injection system, do-up the CVK .. Take it for a spirited ride, you'll know in an instant if you did it all correctly.. Enjoy the new power some before adding the MCM.. Then add MCM, to create a wheelie monster !

Do both MCM and CVK at the same time if you are sure of your skills. Neither MCM nor the lidless CVK setups are experimental - so rest assured that if you can do them without screwing up something, you're bike will go instantly from Zero to Hero !
 
  #40  
Old 07-05-2018, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Klxster
Bolt on your PC4, yank off the airbox lid, remove and deactivate the air injection system, do-up the CVK .. Take it for a spirited ride, you'll know in an instant if you did it all correctly.. Enjoy the new power some before adding the MCM.. Then add MCM, to create a wheelie monster !
Im definitely doing my research before I yank out the carb. I want it to go as smoothly as possible.

Sorry for all the questions but when your asking to remove and deactivate the air injection system .... How? and where is the air injection system?

Also, both setup's 1 & 2 ask to set the needle clip at 1N? Below I've attached some images of what I believe might be 1N on the needle clip. Can you help me confirm which photo is 1N?

Photo 1 or 2 ?






Thanks a ton dude!
 


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