Sweet!!! That's what I was hoping for.

I will order up the one you have.

Thank you,

 

no problem, sorry about the confusion on my end. now that I think about it not fitting into the splines, there is no use for the washer. Just the tightness of the nut would be keeping it on and if the nut came loose the washer would rotate. duh!!

 

Late comer here...
Why did you take the wheel off? Is there no master link on the stock chain anymore?

Those adjusters are a big step backwards... They will get rounded off, and you will never get your wheel running true without a bloody micrometer to measure if each side is adjustedequally... [&:] Big step backwards.

 

I believe taking the wheel off is easier than the master link... and the more times you pop off the link clip, the weaker it gets.

And you actually don't even need to remove the wheel... just slide the axle out with the bike propped an inch off the ground and all the spacers and everything will stay in place... but you can push the wheel forward enough to remove the chain from the rear sprocket.

 

Why is this thread so wide?

 

More like why is this thread so retarded?[:'(]

 

Hmmmm looks like that link up there in post 35 is the cilprit. There is a way to make any link a single word.

 

you don't, you just remove the axle like I stated in my post. it's much easier than popping that tiny master link off and putting it back on.
also, if the threaded adjusters are such a huge downgrade or in your mind, "a big step backwards", why is it that all of the modern MX'ers use them as well as the beloved KTM EXC's?

what part are you talking about that you think will "round off"? I know how to fit the correct wrench to a bolt. Do you use a crescent wrench to loosen tight bolts? If so, I can see how you would round them off.
All of the most powerful bikes built today including the Ninja ZX10 uses threaded adjusters. I would think that threads are stronger than a peg sticking out of the swingarm that really wastes chain length when adjusting. If that peg would happen to get sheered off or just break under sudden power you're screwed. At least with the threaded adjusters, you can replace.

Is virtually every off-road motorcycle other than the old KLX riding around with weak threaded chain adjusters?Both are good ways to adjust the chain, but the threaded adjuster certainly is not a step backwards. You're naive if you actually believe that. Like I said yesterday, it allows for moreaccurate adjustmentand saves chains.

 

No way is taking the wheel off easier than the master link and slipping the chain around to get the sprocket off. I can do it in 30 seconds. But then again I'm not running the O-Ring chain anymore. Note to everyone, always carry a spare master link with you off road. I'm just saying.

 

to me it is. when I removed my ML on my '06 to replace the stock chain with the longer one, it was a pita to get it off and then bend it back to put it on. it flew across my garage as well. I'd much rather loosen one bolt and remove the axle than to fiddle with a ML that will now be weaker than before I removed it. I suppose if you had extra ML's, it may be appealing to do it that way.
But really you're just wasting time removing the chain to install the new sprocket because you still have to loosen the axle bolt to readjust the chain for slack. So by the time you pop the ML off and take the chain off, install new sprocket, reinstall chain and ML; I will have the wheel down already, chain off, new sprocket on and axle slid back in already adjusting the slack when you're still loosening the axle nut and adjuster bolts after messing around with the ML to reinstall the chain. I'd put money on my way being quicker when you look at it as a whole- it takes one step out of the project- removing the master link which isn't a cakewalk. Sliding the axle back through is much easier than removing and installing a master link anyday.