Missed this..... not a single problem yet. Over 23,000 miles now. Just routine maintenance. Oil changes every 3000 kms (1800 miles). Using dino oil as well.... Motomaster 4-Cycle. The engine feels just like new. Loves the KLX.

 

OK, $100 for adj valve kit is crazy. Winter is coming, get a micrometer & feeler gauge, and wait for a week long cold spell, then tear into it. Measure clearance, log info, pull the caps, measure the shims & log info. Chances are you only need one or two shims, and may be able to shuffle the shims you have around to get the proper clearance, although the stock ones in my bike happened to all be the same size. Order what you need @ $6 a pop, and your good to go for another 5-10K.

 

Local shop charged me about $40 to check valves about a year ago.

 

Valve "adjusting" is a lot more time consuming than valve "checking".

 

When you guys are doing the adjustment, did you use the chart in the service manual? When i did mine i just figured out which ones i needed... didnt really see the need for that huge chart...

 

I think the chart's original intention was to simplify things.....

I used simple math myself instead. if you need MORE clearance, you need LESS shim.

 

Very good tutorial Relic, after reading your report I tried searching on youtube but I couldn't find a klx tutorial. This 3 part video for valve/shim adjustment I found are for a kx & i'm guessing very similar to the klx. Doesn't look to difficult & has given me the confidence to have go myself.

It's a bit slow to get going but very methodical & informative for a keen amateur spanner man like me, that has never shimmed a bike before!

part one:

 

removing and putting back the valve cover was the most difficult part for me...klx does not have much room...the fan had to come out to lift the right side high enough...even with the fan removed you can barely lift it high enough to start pushing it to the left....don't twist or try to get it up off straight up..i was not able to remove it from the top....i had to remove it almost completely flat and straight out to the left....when removing the inner covers...there are 2 little metal tube things surrounding two of the bolts that may lift off with that inner cam cover....be very very careful when lifting off that inner cover!....when removing the cover for the valve shims....use the magnet dead center...you also don't want to drop that tiny valve shim!...using the magnet dead center to lift off the covers will make sure you pull the cover off with the shim!...the stock cam chain tensioner is spring loaded..hold it tight when unbolting and pull it off slowly...do not forget to push the cam chain tensioner all the way down after removing...it'll click back out automatically after it is installed...

 

I will do this when winter comes. I am at 3k miles so it will be about due. I did them in my Ninja 500 today. It was not bad but you have to be careful of a few things.

 

I am tempted to do mine sooner. My bike has only about 3500 miles but I have a gut feeling it is a little tight. After doing my Ninja, starting was better and the KLX starts with a little more fuss. Well choke anyway.

I may even be tempted to do a good carb cleaning as well and drill out the pilot screw cover to gain access to that. Every once in a while I get a hesitation out of the KLX. Minor and not very often but it is a sign. Could be slightly lean or could be dirt in the carb.

This tutorial helps a lot. It would have been a bit better showing the actual clearance check. But hey you get what you pay for