I just finished installing Gold Valves in the forks of my '09 KLX250s...


Racetech recommends the FMGV 2001 kit for the ‘09+, and when you use your key on the DVS, that is the kit for which you will get your specs.


I went a different route and bought the FMGV 2040 dirt kit (about $30 cheaper). I know Arctra used the 2040 for a 2010 model, and cross-referencing other bikes showed that several that listed the FMGV 2040 also listed the FMGV 2001 as an option.


I expected to be able to specify the kit I was using when consulting the DVS but that was not the case… I was only given specs for the FMGV 2001. Unfortunately the chart numbers I was given did not match up with the chart supplied with the 2040 kit… so I was stuck. I had no way to use the numbers given by the DVS with the actual chart I had in hand and could not locate a 2001 kit chart. (The online download for the FMGV 2001 documentation does not include the charts)


I scrounged through the forums and found TNC’s shim stack (also used by Arctra), but it looks like they have changed the chart (and stacks) as there was no match on my current chart.



I found an old 20mm dirt shim stack chart that did match TNC’s valve stack (also used by Arctra)… but again, no direct matches with the current chart. The ports in the Gold Valves in my kit are also cut a little different than the pictures from other installs, so I decided not to try and apply the old chart to my newer kit. (I’m also 40 lbs. heavier than TNC so his settings are probably light for me, which means I needed a chart and a point of reference to work with.)


At that point I tried to call Racetech… but they were closed and would not be open again till Monday…


Eureka!.... Pouring over the docs for both the 2040 and 2001, I noticed that the FMGV 2001 instructions on Racetech’s website mentioned the standard shim stack that comes pre-configured on the replacement valve body. Next to the chart number for the pre-configured shim stack, was a second number in parentheses, which just happened to match the number scheme on the 2040 stack chart that came with my kit. I also noticed that that same 2001 pre-configured chart number (and actual stack) was mentioned as an example in the 2040 install instructions. So, assuming that the port profile on the 2001 and 2040 kit are the same… I now had a Rosetta Stone to translate my 2001 DVS chart numbers to the 2040 chart that came with my kit.


Install was straight forward.. no real hang-ups. I did the forks springs and oil a few months ago so the procedure was still fresh in my mind. I pulled the first compression valve body without disassembling the fork (compress the spring and use an electric impact wrench)… but one of the o-rings on the valve body broke and half was missing. At that point I decided to just go ahead and pull everything apart since I needed to find the other half of the o-ring.


Fast forward… everything you need to know is in the directions and videos……


First ride--- honestly, I don’t know what good suspension feels like, but a short ride around the farm tells me that the front end feels better, and I’m probably very close to where I need to be on the stack. Maybe a little stiff on the low-speed, but I haven’t adjust the clickers from the suggested 12 clicks. I’ll get more ride time this week and report back what I think. EDIT: Got some more time in... now I don't think it was too stiff... I think it was not stiff enough. I played with it a bit and settled on two click firmer on compression (10 total). Also went two clicks lighter on the stock shock compression and two firmer on rebound. I think I like that well enough to keep it that way for awhile.





Here are the settings I used:

Rider Specs:

- 225 lbs, 45+, Enduro/Trail, Novice, large tank


Assumption (2001 chart = 2040 chart):
cL1502 = cL1007 and cH104 =cH148


Lo-Speed (cL1506 = cL1011)
(3) .15x17
(1) .10x17

Lo-Speed Crossover (cLX1011)
.10x11

Hi-Speed (cH107 = cH151)
.10x17
.10x15
.10x14
.10x13
.10x12
.10x11
.10x10

- Maxima 85-150 5wt, 100mm, 12 clicks (Edit: Now 10 clicks out)





TNC's Pre-2008 shim stack (for reference)

LSC--
(2) .15 X 17
(2) .10 X 17
.10 X 11

HSC--
.15 X 17
.10 X 15
.10 X 13
.10 X 12
.10 X 11
.10 X 10
.10 X 9

 

Good on ya for persevering with finding those stack configurations. I had to play with mine a couple of times to get a satisfactory setup, but it was worth it.

 

I probably could have called Racetech two months ago and had all my questions answered.... but what's the fun in that? LOL

 

Yeah, but its always better to know your bike inside and out.

 

I agree 100%, plus I often find that I have more time to tinker with it than I have available to ride (but I've ridden more since I picked up the KLX than I've ridden in years... )

 

Do you have a pic of your gold valve 2040 ?

 

Sorry brother, I didn't take any pictures. What do you want to know about, maybe I can describe it from memory?


PS. Ordered the shock kit yesterday.... WooHoo!

PPS. Also ordered some Motorex Racing Blend 2.5W. It is supposed to equal to Racetech's US1 shock oil for a few dollars less. I used Maxima 85-150 5W in the forks, which is supposed to be very close to Racetech USF05 for about half the price shipped to the house.


FYI....Total spent on suspension so far: $164 for fork springs (too much), $109 for shock spring, $118 for fork GV's, $106 for shock GV, $39 for oil = $536 (includes shipping)

I've got a few more miles on it now and I still like the front end. I haven't been to my favorite singletrack spot, so I don't want to give my final judgement just yet, but all signs are good.

 

Suspension upgrades are the best. I went for the klx300 .46kg rate Racetech springs for my '07 klx250s.... no more crazy dive and alot better offroad.

Still want to try the valves, but for the price of the springs I'm happy with the results. New seals and bushings seemed to help a bit too. Haven't quite figured out the best compression dampening settings yet, I would like the front end to absorb more while road riding...

 

There is a dispute within Racetech whether they sent me the correct gold valve or not.
I was given the FMGV S2040G instead of the FMGV 2001. The sales team are saying that the valve they have given me is ok to use. But the Tech expert is saying i cannot use that on my bike.
My valve has 8 ports. 4 all the way through and the other four have a restrictor plate.








PS
I did my rear shock 2 years ago and was amazed by the difference,

 

Got started on the rear shock today..

I have to drill a 1.3mm bleed hole in the valve so I can't put it together until the drill bit arrives in the mail, but I can start the disassembly as it's to freakin hot and humid to ride right now!

I cranked up the music and the A/C in the shop, then located and measured all the correct shims for the recipe from the DVS. I then pulled the shock and took off the spring, went to let out the nitrogen and dammit... it is a needle type.

I have some 18g needles but looks like most of the kits use a 22g, so I'll pick one up at Tractor Supply tomorrow. I was looking for a needle kit on the interweb.. and ironically, a replacement reservoir cap with a shrader valve is cheaper than a basic needle kit... so one reservoir cap is now on order... LOL

Anyway... on hold until I can get a few more parts in...