I picked this up at the end of September. It’s a 2009 with 3500 miles. I'm going to add some parts and make some modifications to suit all types of riding. Its going to see street use, trails, single track and sand dunes. First phase is ice bike. I live on a big water system in central-eastern Wisconsin, and we're entering the season for studs!

I'm going to be running with my buddy and his 1979 Yamaha DT175. Its a little 2-stroker enduro, but it cooks pretty good for its size. On an open road my DynoJet Stage 2 KLX and his Boysen Reed DT are neck-and-neck with the KLX pulling away slightly after 65 mph. We're both looking for a little more power, but it will be a good match for the oval and trails.
If I end up going full hog on the KLX and big bore pumper carb, I might even be a good match to my buddies other ice bike, a 1979 Yamaha SR500 flat tracker.



The bike had a few nice mods done already when I got it.

ProTaper ¾ " bars, Cycra handguards, skid plate & a luggage rack that is now removed.

 

Now for the most current tinkering.



Since this is the winter thread I will get this up front. We are starting to make ice up here!





Here are the tires I bought from RevZilla for studding.

Front: Shinko SR 241, 2.75X21 45P

Rear: Shinko SR 241, 3.50X18 56P

I used a bunch of old 1/2" screws. I think they are Gold Ice Scews. I wanted short ones so I could possibly get away without liners. No luck, even the short screws poke out on the inside. This is a good reason why dedicated Ice tires are better.






These are narrow tires (The factory KLX250S tires are stacked on top) The theory is that they will cut down through snow. They will also help keep weight down with fewer screws. I kinda cheaped out on these. I got them mostly because they were less than $100 shipped for the both of ‘em.

The rubber compound is very soft. Not Ideal for holding screws. The tread blocks also have little cuts in them like car snow tires - also not good for holding screws. Is 18hp enough to have fun and keep these tires from tossing every screw? We will find out.



Now for some mods I’m in the process of completing.



I didn’t capture the install, but I’ve added UnaBiker Radiator Guards.







Initial carb tuning:

To get a good baseline I installed the Dynojet 2152 kit.

Pilot: 35, air mix is ~3 turns out

Main: DJ128

Needle: DN0228, 3rd clip position

Spring: DSP027, softer spring than stock



Per the DynoJet stage 2, snorkel is removed and a fresh Hi-Flo filter installed.

Results are pretty decent. It’s a bit rich, but that’s okay for now. Better to be rich in the cold.

 

More parts that will be installed soon:



ProTaper Twister push-pull throttle tube. I agree with those who said the throttle range is too wide and kinda sloppy.




ProTaper Grips. Fatter than the ones I have now for better feel with a winter glove.



Four Stroke Works KLX shift kit. Having a '09, I have the crappy countersunk style shift star. The one that is prone to failing. This kit is expensive. I was shocked at first, but then I started to realize the value. The star itself is the better, solid version. The ramps have been polished for smoother shifting. I get a new gasket for the cover, and a little specially machined dowel that slips over the spring for added preload. This should slightly shorten the throw and make for a more positive engagement. If this improves the shifter as I suspect it will, then it will be well worth the high cost.



The excellent Krieger Cam Chain Tensioner. I'm quite happy with this part. its very well made, and comes with some fresh gaskets and sweet stickers. Gotta love some go-fast stickers!



Barker Exhaust System. I wasn't sure if i was going to get this before next year or not. I couldn't resist. Its an awesome looking pipe and I like the optional black finish, red decal and turn-down tip.



I think there is a shortage of KLX 250S Barker system pics on the internet, so I'll get some up next..

 

Barker install. Just a few pics. I have a hang scale ordered from Amazon and I'm going to weight the two systems to see whats what. Needs to come back off for Krieger tensioner install anyway.

 

Ice is really fun. Like perfect dirt. I wish we got and could keep good ice here in central Ohio. I have my SR500 that could get studded up rather easily.

 

If one has never ridden on ice with proper tires, its hard to explain the experience. Its a ton of fun. More traction than any other surface imaginable (as long as no snow). And with the lakes we have vast open spaces and every year multiple tracks get groomed all over the place. Its an all out riot, and often we go from racing in the day to bar hopping the shoreline in the evening.

Heck yes, SR500 is pretty much my favorite moto ever. I know this is a Kawi forum, but the vintage machines will get some attention here as well.

 

Looks like i would add another hanger on the silencer....seems to be pretty long for just that one don't you think?

 

Perhaps.. I will keep an eye on it for excessive vibration or fatigue. Barker seems to think its okay. This is a lightweight system.. But if the joint between the two halves begins leaking I will have to do something.

 

Definitely running screws in the tires. I first rode a lowered 370 Bultaco a friend did up, then years later my brother's Honda 250 Reflex and the last time too many years ago, a TT500 another friend had. I raced some short track on a 175 Sherpa S and had a blast, but there are few dirt surfaces that can compare to ice. Like I said, like perfect dirt. If anyone has the chance, do it. It's awesome.

 

Got the carb rejetted for the pipe, airbox and MCM. Now Its set like so:

Pilot: 40, air mix is ~2 turns out

Main: DJ144

Needle: DN0228, 2nd clip position

Spring: Stock





Drilled out case breather and plugged the exhaust pulse port in the airbox.



Also weighed the exhaust systems to see what the difference is.

Stock system is 8.37 lbs for muffler/mid and 2.00 lbs for the head pipe.
Barker system is 5.18 lbs for muffler/mid and 1.76 lbs for the head pipe.

The Barker system is 3.43 lbs lighter.