GPZ brake problem
#1
GPZ brake problem
Hi guys im new here and need help with a problem im having with a 93 gpz 500s (A). i have recently had new fork seals put on and after replacing everything and putting on the front brake i found there was no resistance on the lever. I have since bled the brake twice and am sure that there is no air in the hose but still no change with the lever. I am not very mechanically minded and this may be something stupid that i am doing wrong but if anyone can advise please feel free.
cheers
cheers
#2
RE: GPZ brake problem
ok, how did you bleed the brakes ? did you bleed the master cylinder if so bleedable ? can you see how bad the rubber lines are swelling as you apply pressure on the lever ? how old are the brake lines ?
#4
RE: GPZ brake problem
iu should of said it like this. sitting on the bike.. bleed the master cylinder, then the left caliper (clutch side) then the right (throttle side) if its still not building pressure, change out your break lines and do it again.
#6
RE: GPZ brake problem
but a 15 dollar vaccum bleeder from the local auto parts store wont drink your beer, talk your ear off and check out your wifes ***.
and you can do a complete bike in 15 minutes instead of 5 hours lol
and you can do a complete bike in 15 minutes instead of 5 hours lol
#8
RE: GPZ brake problem
ORIGINAL: evil636
but a 15 dollar vaccum bleeder from the local auto parts store wont drink your beer, talk your ear off and check out your wifes ***.
and you can do a complete bike in 15 minutes instead of 5 hours lol
but a 15 dollar vaccum bleeder from the local auto parts store wont drink your beer, talk your ear off and check out your wifes ***.
and you can do a complete bike in 15 minutes instead of 5 hours lol
#9
RE: GPZ brake problem
Thanks guys, no bleed valve on master cylinder. the european gpz only has one brake line (I think the U.S. version, EX 500 ninja, had twin discs). I bled by pumping then holding brake lever then releasing bleed nipple, once oil slowed did nipple back up and releasing lever, open nipple, pull lever etc etc until i only had oil coming through tube on nipple. There does not seem to be any pressure pushing the pistons to the brake pads as the inner pad is loose.
Im not sure how old the brake line is as i havent had the bike long but judging by everything else im having to replace id say it is the original line. the condition of the line looks ok to me but as i said earlier im no mechanic.
One other thing thats worth noting while the fork seals were being replaced and the front end was in bits, a friends little BRAT, i mean son, pulled in the brake lever which i understand would have blown out the pistons, however they did not appear to have moved and there was still a gap between the pads??? could this mean the pistons have seized? the brakes worked fine before i removed them so i dont really see why they would have seized by being off the bike.
Im not sure how old the brake line is as i havent had the bike long but judging by everything else im having to replace id say it is the original line. the condition of the line looks ok to me but as i said earlier im no mechanic.
One other thing thats worth noting while the fork seals were being replaced and the front end was in bits, a friends little BRAT, i mean son, pulled in the brake lever which i understand would have blown out the pistons, however they did not appear to have moved and there was still a gap between the pads??? could this mean the pistons have seized? the brakes worked fine before i removed them so i dont really see why they would have seized by being off the bike.
#10
RE: GPZ brake problem
You need to gravity bleed them first.Open your bleed screws and pour in a little fluid when it starts pouring out stop and tighten um up.Do your normal bleed routine and try again.If this doesn't work get a vacume bleeder like evil said.
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