I purchased my first bike this past summer and rode close to 1000 miles on it. On a couple occassions the chain developed some slack and I found some instructionals on how to tighten it. Not that hard of a process at all. Well, after the last time I rode, I noticed it was loose again, and upon trying to slide the axel back further in the swingarm, I think I found it's actually back as far as it'll go and the chain is still rather loose. Is this a sure sign that I need to buy a new chain? If so, how do I know if I also need new sprockets. And if I am replacing this stuff.. how do I know what to buy. The bike is far from stock, and I don't know if it has the same number of front and rear teeth on the sprockets as OEM would have. I don't know the first thing about buying a chain. If they are different lengths, or if they are one length and I'll have to get the required tools and shorten it occordingly. I was going to take it back to the shop that built it/sold it to me, but it seems like such an easy thing to do, and I considder myself fairly able.. so I'd like to just do it myself. Like I said, only problem is I've never done it, so I don't know what's out there and what to look for.

Thanks for any info!
B

96 ZX-7R

 

the next step (some may think its wrong however..) for me is to remove one link.

some will argue that the chain is stretched and that you NEED a new one, but i'm a po' white kid, and don't like buying chains every other month.. removing one link still is safe tho. the chain is not stretched past its yield point yet..

technically, by-the-books, you need a new chain tho.. lol

 

Look at your sprockets. Are they "dog-ear'd?" Is there sign of wear on the torque side of the teeth? If so, I'd get at least a replacement rear sprocket. If, on the other hand, you're a smooth throttle type who tends to go easy on the wrist, you may not have much visible wear, and can simply replace the chain. The front sprocket will typically wear a bit less than the rear, by virtue of being hard steel. Rears are often aluminum, and can wear a bit faster. The number of teeth on your sprockets may be stamped on them. You can also just count them.
The chain? Yeah; if it's stretched to the point of non-adjustment, I'd get a new one. While I fully respect Hendrix' fix, the integrity of the chain is getting compromised by the amount of stretch. Buy the best chain you can afford, and always keep it clean and very lightly lubed. (Even to the point of taking a rag with kerosene, WD40, or cleaner/lube of choice and simply wiping it down once a week to keep the guk from building up.) Master link and clip versus riveted link. I'd go with the rivited link for the best long-term safety and wear. A clip certainly has its advantages (easier removal and replacement) but they can also come off, sometimes even when properly installed.If you plan to keep your bike a long long time, buy the best and keep it in good shape. You can do this yourself; don't pay some mechanicfor your opportunity to learn something new.

 

+1..

jeff is wise..

like i said.. i don't condone link removal, but it'll get you thru for a while if you're waiting to get paid or whatever..

 

You have the internet and a manual for your new ride by now. The sprocket size will be listed with the link size and length for oem.

Do not play chain and sprocket quality lightly. Spend the money right the first time on a good O ring chain, and a good named sprocket set. Just get it done and over with to ensure your safety. Plus less replacements ie $'s. Then know how to maintain ie clean and lube the setup. Will last you a long time! After a break in of the new chain and sprocket setup, an adjustment is needed for stretch of course but will not need much adjusting after that.

 

I agree Drag, there's also quite a few companies now selling an entire kit.... Chain with the sprockets. DID, EK, etc....

example: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RK-Go...QQcmdZViewItem