carbs and valve job on a 99 zx7
No...I am having it painted by jons paint and body in whylie, TX just outside of Dallas...
He said it would be done yesterday but I think more like next week...FYI the red paint on the zx7 is three stage???
I am paying almost $800.00 to get a solotail,1 piece lower and a one piece upper with the head lights cut out, which btw took me four hours of sanding to make it look good and line up with the factory head lights........Aftermarket sucks!!!
Well my former career I was a car audio installer so I had some extra stuff laying around so as I am waiting for my plastic/fiberglass to get back from paint i installed a 7"TV with a rear view camera....pretty cool because the camera is wide angel so you can see all three lanes behind you. I am working on a fiberglass bezel to go around it now.. also I took the key lock off the rear seat mount & hooked it up to the (front) main seat instead of that pull loop thing, I flushed the key lock under the tail…(pretty custom) lol
well I will update pics when I get my parts back and re-assembled...
http://hightechnetworks.com/zx7/
Thanks
He said it would be done yesterday but I think more like next week...FYI the red paint on the zx7 is three stage???
I am paying almost $800.00 to get a solotail,1 piece lower and a one piece upper with the head lights cut out, which btw took me four hours of sanding to make it look good and line up with the factory head lights........Aftermarket sucks!!!
Well my former career I was a car audio installer so I had some extra stuff laying around so as I am waiting for my plastic/fiberglass to get back from paint i installed a 7"TV with a rear view camera....pretty cool because the camera is wide angel so you can see all three lanes behind you. I am working on a fiberglass bezel to go around it now.. also I took the key lock off the rear seat mount & hooked it up to the (front) main seat instead of that pull loop thing, I flushed the key lock under the tail…(pretty custom) lol
well I will update pics when I get my parts back and re-assembled...
http://hightechnetworks.com/zx7/
Thanks
Last edited by mrtwelvevolts; Aug 3, 2008 at 01:49 PM.
Last edited by mrtwelvevolts; Aug 6, 2008 at 12:40 AM.
WOW man. That came out SHARP! Congrats....
And I think she is very clean without that huge lower ninja sticker.
If you just need a sticker, PM evil636 and he can make you a couple of Kawasaki Forum stickers that come out real nice and they are smaller. Maybe put it on the lower fairing at an angle, almost like the motogp bikes. Would look sharp.
And I think she is very clean without that huge lower ninja sticker.
If you just need a sticker, PM evil636 and he can make you a couple of Kawasaki Forum stickers that come out real nice and they are smaller. Maybe put it on the lower fairing at an angle, almost like the motogp bikes. Would look sharp.
WOW man. That came out SHARP! Congrats....
And I think she is very clean without that huge lower ninja sticker.
If you just need a sticker, PM evil636 and he can make you a couple of Kawasaki Forum stickers that come out real nice and they are smaller. Maybe put it on the lower fairing at an angle, almost like the motogp bikes. Would look sharp.
And I think she is very clean without that huge lower ninja sticker.
If you just need a sticker, PM evil636 and he can make you a couple of Kawasaki Forum stickers that come out real nice and they are smaller. Maybe put it on the lower fairing at an angle, almost like the motogp bikes. Would look sharp.
Sounds like Big18 there got you in the right direction, so, here's some added thoughts:
If you aren't sure about carb cleaning, remove the carbs and take them to the shop. it won't cost more than $100 to get rebuilt (unless the sliders need replaced, which can be up to $75 each, retail). Then, when you pick them up from the shop, tell them you'll be back for a carb sync (which can't be done without special tools and knowledge). What you're doing is saving the $$$ the shop will charge you to take it apart and re-assemble on the bike. The sync job takes 1/2 an hour or less.
Now, while you have it all opened up, pull the valve cover off and check valve clearance. You do need a feeler guage and, of course, the right numbers. Which, if you work the service writer at the shop properly, should give you the info from the shop manual. Just be honest about your intentions.
FYI:: a good service writer understands that alot of people are somewhat mechanically inclined, and want to work on their own bike. If you're honest about it, he (or she) will want to do the tech work for you. Just remember to go there for anything else (tires, parts, etc...). Get a good reputation as a regular customer, no matter how small the part or price, and they'll take care of you.
If you're a nice guy, they will be too.
If you aren't sure about carb cleaning, remove the carbs and take them to the shop. it won't cost more than $100 to get rebuilt (unless the sliders need replaced, which can be up to $75 each, retail). Then, when you pick them up from the shop, tell them you'll be back for a carb sync (which can't be done without special tools and knowledge). What you're doing is saving the $$$ the shop will charge you to take it apart and re-assemble on the bike. The sync job takes 1/2 an hour or less.
Now, while you have it all opened up, pull the valve cover off and check valve clearance. You do need a feeler guage and, of course, the right numbers. Which, if you work the service writer at the shop properly, should give you the info from the shop manual. Just be honest about your intentions.
FYI:: a good service writer understands that alot of people are somewhat mechanically inclined, and want to work on their own bike. If you're honest about it, he (or she) will want to do the tech work for you. Just remember to go there for anything else (tires, parts, etc...). Get a good reputation as a regular customer, no matter how small the part or price, and they'll take care of you.
If you're a nice guy, they will be too.
Sounds like Big18 there got you in the right direction, so, here's some added thoughts:
If you aren't sure about carb cleaning, remove the carbs and take them to the shop. it won't cost more than $100 to get rebuilt (unless the sliders need replaced, which can be up to $75 each, retail). Then, when you pick them up from the shop, tell them you'll be back for a carb sync (which can't be done without special tools and knowledge). What you're doing is saving the $$$ the shop will charge you to take it apart and re-assemble on the bike. The sync job takes 1/2 an hour or less.
Now, while you have it all opened up, pull the valve cover off and check valve clearance. You do need a feeler guage and, of course, the right numbers. Which, if you work the service writer at the shop properly, should give you the info from the shop manual. Just be honest about your intentions.
FYI:: a good service writer understands that alot of people are somewhat mechanically inclined, and want to work on their own bike. If you're honest about it, he (or she) will want to do the tech work for you. Just remember to go there for anything else (tires, parts, etc...). Get a good reputation as a regular customer, no matter how small the part or price, and they'll take care of you.
If you're a nice guy, they will be too.
If you aren't sure about carb cleaning, remove the carbs and take them to the shop. it won't cost more than $100 to get rebuilt (unless the sliders need replaced, which can be up to $75 each, retail). Then, when you pick them up from the shop, tell them you'll be back for a carb sync (which can't be done without special tools and knowledge). What you're doing is saving the $$$ the shop will charge you to take it apart and re-assemble on the bike. The sync job takes 1/2 an hour or less.
Now, while you have it all opened up, pull the valve cover off and check valve clearance. You do need a feeler guage and, of course, the right numbers. Which, if you work the service writer at the shop properly, should give you the info from the shop manual. Just be honest about your intentions.
FYI:: a good service writer understands that alot of people are somewhat mechanically inclined, and want to work on their own bike. If you're honest about it, he (or she) will want to do the tech work for you. Just remember to go there for anything else (tires, parts, etc...). Get a good reputation as a regular customer, no matter how small the part or price, and they'll take care of you.
If you're a nice guy, they will be too.
Sounds like Big18 there got you in the right direction, so, here's some added thoughts:
If you aren't sure about carb cleaning, remove the carbs and take them to the shop. it won't cost more than $100 to get rebuilt (unless the sliders need replaced, which can be up to $75 each, retail). Then, when you pick them up from the shop, tell them you'll be back for a carb sync (which can't be done without special tools and knowledge). What you're doing is saving the $$$ the shop will charge you to take it apart and re-assemble on the bike. The sync job takes 1/2 an hour or less.
Now, while you have it all opened up, pull the valve cover off and check valve clearance. You do need a feeler guage and, of course, the right numbers. Which, if you work the service writer at the shop properly, should give you the info from the shop manual. Just be honest about your intentions.
FYI:: a good service writer understands that alot of people are somewhat mechanically inclined, and want to work on their own bike. If you're honest about it, he (or she) will want to do the tech work for you. Just remember to go there for anything else (tires, parts, etc...). Get a good reputation as a regular customer, no matter how small the part or price, and they'll take care of you.
If you're a nice guy, they will be too.
If you aren't sure about carb cleaning, remove the carbs and take them to the shop. it won't cost more than $100 to get rebuilt (unless the sliders need replaced, which can be up to $75 each, retail). Then, when you pick them up from the shop, tell them you'll be back for a carb sync (which can't be done without special tools and knowledge). What you're doing is saving the $$$ the shop will charge you to take it apart and re-assemble on the bike. The sync job takes 1/2 an hour or less.
Now, while you have it all opened up, pull the valve cover off and check valve clearance. You do need a feeler guage and, of course, the right numbers. Which, if you work the service writer at the shop properly, should give you the info from the shop manual. Just be honest about your intentions.
FYI:: a good service writer understands that alot of people are somewhat mechanically inclined, and want to work on their own bike. If you're honest about it, he (or she) will want to do the tech work for you. Just remember to go there for anything else (tires, parts, etc...). Get a good reputation as a regular customer, no matter how small the part or price, and they'll take care of you.
If you're a nice guy, they will be too.
half hr is fast on a synch. I would definitely go back to them if it ran afterwards in .5hrs. If the tank is propped and all good to go, then I can see .5hrs
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