batt discharging quickly
77 kz750 battery shows 12.4 volts with key off and fully charged start eninge and batt volts dropfairly quickly have no idea where to start read manual and its pretty confusing with all these tests you have to take. is there any simplified way to test the rectifier, stator, and othercharging parts. if you can get back to me quickly that would be very great thanx.
the battey is only a month old and i checked to day after i charged it for 3 hours i checked it 12.93v andwhen it was running and if it was reving like 3000rpm the volt were like 12.09 and would stay ther maybe drop down .01 of a volts or go up .01 of a volt and after driving it for 10-15 mins with the engine of the batt read 12.20v then i started it it read 11.77v and and it would drop .01-.02v until i rev 3-4000 it would go up .01-02v. then i charged the batt again for 10-15 mins and drove for 20 mins again and the batt volts were a lil lower again and then i drove if 10 mins and the batt got to low to even turn on the signals but the headlight and tails/brake lights worked but were a lil dim but not bad. so i know its a charging problem but hope its not going to be to exspensive, when reving it it holds the volt ok when checking it but its nowhere near the 14.5v where it needs to be.
Oh OK I see, your charging system is not putting out enough to keep up with the demand. Your bike should be putting out 14.4 volts with the lights on high beam and the brake light on, if its not you have a charging problem. I would make sure the connections are good, and take a look at the wire going to the starter, make sure its on tight and clean.
Hope you figure this out, I know how frustrating it can be. Do you have a good digital meter? Get some good alligator clip leads and start the bike, and see where the voltage is while idling with lights on. Also re-check the battery to make sure that all 6 cells are full of electrolyte,sometimes while filling it you can get a bubble in it and it may look full but even one low cell can cause a lot of problems.
Hope you figure this out, I know how frustrating it can be. Do you have a good digital meter? Get some good alligator clip leads and start the bike, and see where the voltage is while idling with lights on. Also re-check the battery to make sure that all 6 cells are full of electrolyte,sometimes while filling it you can get a bubble in it and it may look full but even one low cell can cause a lot of problems.
with the bike running and high beams on the batt just drops by fractions of volts and when driving with the high beam on accidentally the bike died and couldn't even power the ignition coil i ended up having to push the bike 20 mins then noticed the high beam switch was on i shut it off and pushed it again for another20 mins then put the key on to try and see if the neutral light came on and it did i fired the bike up and was able to make it the 5 min drive the rest of the way to work but signals wouldn't work and ive i really reved the motor the engine would backfire a bit cuz of the lack of power to the coil for the demand. luckily i new it prolly was going to happen to i packed my batt charger in my back pack and charging the batter now. why would the conection to the starter do anything?? even with a fulll batt its hard to turn the bike over with the starter is has a little bit of a dead spot. it will turn stop turn stop just not fast enough and steady enought to start the bike moast of the time but starts first kick 90% of the time
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