starter switch?
#1
starter switch?
I have a 02 800 vulcan classic, and it won't start. The battery is 100%, but when i try and start it, it turns over for a second and then starts making a clicking sound and won't do anything. I'm thinking maybe the starter switch or the starter.Any suggestions???Thanx.
#2
Welcome To Kawasaki Forums.
Turn On Some Tunes And Enjoy The Ride.
They're a lot of Good Members Here and they will do there Best to Help You out with Your Questions. Sometimes It Takes A Little Longer Then Others. So, hang-in there.
Turn On Some Tunes And Enjoy The Ride.
They're a lot of Good Members Here and they will do there Best to Help You out with Your Questions. Sometimes It Takes A Little Longer Then Others. So, hang-in there.
#4
Starter motor pulls down the battery voltage to as low as 8V, less in cold weather.
Use a car battery to try and jump start the bike and prove your own battery. Then apply the jump lead direct to the terminal of the starter motor to check that. Starter switch is OK or there's be no response.
If battery and starter motor are both good, then given what's happening the most likely culprit is the starter relay.
I have to say though, it sounds like a battery that can't deliver its charge.
Rob
Use a car battery to try and jump start the bike and prove your own battery. Then apply the jump lead direct to the terminal of the starter motor to check that. Starter switch is OK or there's be no response.
If battery and starter motor are both good, then given what's happening the most likely culprit is the starter relay.
I have to say though, it sounds like a battery that can't deliver its charge.
Rob
#5
+1^ Also check your ground, key switch terminals, handlebar switch terminals, and all charging circuit wiring. OK to use auto battery, but don't overdo it; some circuitry in the line will not like the amperage (very long.) Like Drag said, get yer meter out.
Welcome to the forums, Sanch. Keep us posted, OK?
Gear up; stay safe.
Welcome to the forums, Sanch. Keep us posted, OK?
Gear up; stay safe.
#7
Another troubleshooting checklist:
Starter Solenoid Checkout
Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:
1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).
2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.
3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.
4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.
5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.
Check for voltage there when the start button is pushed. If no voltage, check back to the clutch interlock switch .
6.Try again to start the bike.
7.If no luck, go to step #8
8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.
9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:
A. http://www.mawonline.com/newsite/ric...er_brushes.htm
B.http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/...tartmtrkit.htm
10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit.
11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.
12. The welding cable is sold by the foot ,so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.
Starter Solenoid Checkout
Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:
1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).
2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.
3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.
4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.
5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.
Check for voltage there when the start button is pushed. If no voltage, check back to the clutch interlock switch .
6.Try again to start the bike.
7.If no luck, go to step #8
8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.
9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:
A. http://www.mawonline.com/newsite/ric...er_brushes.htm
B.http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/...tartmtrkit.htm
10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit.
11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.
12. The welding cable is sold by the foot ,so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.
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