Front + Rear Sprocket and 520 Chain install 03 zx6rr
#1
04-09-2007, 07:37 PM
Front + Rear Sprocket and 520 Chain install 03 zx6rr
OK.
This install was done on a 2003 zx6rr
So i couldn't find an ENTIRE write up with ALL the info i needed to do a complete switch from 525 chain with stock gearing to a 520 chain and custom sprockets.
The ENTIRE install was done my one person, myself, and in one afternoon.
This write up will hopefully be helpful. I will try and add everything possible about torque specs and so on.
Stock Specs:
525 chain.
40 tooth rear sprocket.
15 tooth front sprocket.
What i used:
520 DID Chain with 120 links.
48 tooth rear sprocket by Sprocket Specialists.
15 tooth "no name" front sprocket.
Why i used those parts:
They were available.
I wanted to go WAY up in the back and NOT change the front sprocket. Using a smaller front sprocket causes more force on the sprocket itself and may cause jerky throttle response.
The most common sprocket set up is one down in the front (14 tooth) and 2 up in the back (42 tooth). This set up is common for almost all 600cc bikes.
The chain was switched to a 520 from a 525 because 520 chains are cheaper and there are more available parts for that chain. The 525 is supposed to last longer, but it is much more expensive. In fact, i found that the conversion to a 520 chain cost less than simply buying a new 525 chain and a rear sprocket to match it. Also, non of those parts were available locally.
Step 1.
Get the back of the bike in the air. I don't care how, just get the rear tire off the ground. My bike has little thingys in the back for a rear stand, but i didn't have a rear stand. what i did have were two jack stands. Get a buddy to lift the rear of the bike while you slide the jack stands under the swing arm. Be creative. I did this whole thing by myself.
Step 2.
Take the front sprocket cover off. First remove the speed sensor by taking out the 8mm bolt that holds it onto the front of the case. Tuck it somewhere out of the way. There are 5x 8mm bolts holding the actual cover on. I had to remove another 8mm bolt because it was in the way. Here is the before picture:
Step 3.
This is what it looks like with the cover off:
You are going to need to flatten the crease out of the washer thats behind the front sprocket nut. A portion of the washer is folded down over the actual nut, and the nut won't come off unless you get this washer out of the way. I used a flathead screwdriver and a rubber mallet.
The actual sprocket nut is torqued to 92 ft-lbs from the factory and the held on with red threadlock...the hardcore stuff. I bought this...
This is an electric impact gun. it was 180$ at home depot and it's worth owning if you want to work on cars or bikes and don't have an air compressor.
If you don't have one of these...or an air compressor with an actual air impact gun, yer in for a treat.
The front sprocket nut size is 27mm
You will need a breaker bar to get it loose, and someone holding the rear break down. The easiest way to get it off is prolly by torching it with a propane torch (you can get them at any hardware or automotive store) for about 30 seconds and then going at it with a breaker bar. Again...be creative.
Step 4.
Remove the rear axle nut. The rear axle nut is 32mm. The rear axle nut is held on with 94 ft-lbs of torque.
Once you get the nut and the washer off, you need to push the axle through. I used a rubber mallet. Once you get enough of the axle out the other side, then pull on it the rest of the way. You may need to hold the tire in place with something while you do this.
Step 5.
Cut the original chain off. I couldn't reuse it so i just cut it in half. Plus it had a ton of miles on it. I was going to throw it away anyway.
Step 6.
Replace the sprockets.
The sprockets are installed with the number that tells you how many teeth exist on each sprocket FACING OUTWARD.
The front sprocket should look the pretty much the same as the original. make sure the clearance from the bike is the same on both so the chain isn't crooked going back on. Once you get it on properly put the washer back on and then the front axle nut. keep these loose for now.
The rear sprocket is held on with 6x 14mm nuts at 43 ft-lbs of torque. I stood the wheel up and put it between my legs to loosen the nuts. I used the same method to put them back on. I also used BLUE threadlocker on each bolt when i reinstalled them.
The large silver ratchet to the side is a TORQUE wrench. EACH nut that is removed should be put back on with a regular ratchet until they are snug, then tightened to 43 ft-lbs with the torque wrench. You should tighten them in a star pattern.
There are two spacers on either side of the wheel that most likely fell out when you removed the wheel. The "T" looking spacer goes on the brake side of the wheel between the brake and the actual wheel. The solid spacer goes on the sprocket side of the wheel between the wheel and the swingarm. They are both circular silver spacers. I forgot to take a pic. if someone has one, please send it to me and i will add it.
Grease the axle up with whatever grease blows your skirt up, then realign the wheel inside the swingarm with the rear brake in place. The picture above shows the portion of metal that the brake caliper slides onto. This is a bitch. I sat on the ground behind the wheel and held it up with my feet/ankles while i cussed at the axle. Everything should line up and the axle should slide in. DO NOT FORCE IT. DO NOT HIT IT WITH ANYTHING METAL. you can tap the axle with a rubber mallet, but you need to be sure that the wheel is on straight...that the caliber is in place...and that the two spacers are in place.
Once you get the axle through the swingarm put the washer and rear axle nut back in place. Just snug them up for now, don't tighten them.
If your chain adjusters are set pretty far back, then loosen them with a 12mm wrench and move them forward. They should be at the first or second hash mark on the swingarm...or between the two.
Step 7.
The Chain.
My chain was too long. If you buy a package deal from a company you should get a chain that fits perfectly. I had to remove 3 links. I know this because i fit the chain around the two sprockets and it overlapped. With the chain adjuster on the swingarm set between the first and second hash, i pulled the chain tight and made a decision about how many links i should remove. It was 3 links. This is how i removed the 3rd link; I used a dremel and shaved the heads off both the rivets on the same side of the same link. Then i separated the link with a screwdriver and a rubber mallet. Be sure not to drive the screwdriver into anything important.
Once i got the chain to the length it needed to be i re routed it back onto the sprockets. The front and rear sprocket nuts need to be snug. The ends of the cha
This install was done on a 2003 zx6rr
So i couldn't find an ENTIRE write up with ALL the info i needed to do a complete switch from 525 chain with stock gearing to a 520 chain and custom sprockets.
The ENTIRE install was done my one person, myself, and in one afternoon.
This write up will hopefully be helpful. I will try and add everything possible about torque specs and so on.
Stock Specs:
525 chain.
40 tooth rear sprocket.
15 tooth front sprocket.
What i used:
520 DID Chain with 120 links.
48 tooth rear sprocket by Sprocket Specialists.
15 tooth "no name" front sprocket.
Why i used those parts:
They were available.
I wanted to go WAY up in the back and NOT change the front sprocket. Using a smaller front sprocket causes more force on the sprocket itself and may cause jerky throttle response.
The most common sprocket set up is one down in the front (14 tooth) and 2 up in the back (42 tooth). This set up is common for almost all 600cc bikes.
The chain was switched to a 520 from a 525 because 520 chains are cheaper and there are more available parts for that chain. The 525 is supposed to last longer, but it is much more expensive. In fact, i found that the conversion to a 520 chain cost less than simply buying a new 525 chain and a rear sprocket to match it. Also, non of those parts were available locally.
Step 1.
Get the back of the bike in the air. I don't care how, just get the rear tire off the ground. My bike has little thingys in the back for a rear stand, but i didn't have a rear stand. what i did have were two jack stands. Get a buddy to lift the rear of the bike while you slide the jack stands under the swing arm. Be creative. I did this whole thing by myself.
Step 2.
Take the front sprocket cover off. First remove the speed sensor by taking out the 8mm bolt that holds it onto the front of the case. Tuck it somewhere out of the way. There are 5x 8mm bolts holding the actual cover on. I had to remove another 8mm bolt because it was in the way. Here is the before picture:
Step 3.
This is what it looks like with the cover off:
You are going to need to flatten the crease out of the washer thats behind the front sprocket nut. A portion of the washer is folded down over the actual nut, and the nut won't come off unless you get this washer out of the way. I used a flathead screwdriver and a rubber mallet.
The actual sprocket nut is torqued to 92 ft-lbs from the factory and the held on with red threadlock...the hardcore stuff. I bought this...
This is an electric impact gun. it was 180$ at home depot and it's worth owning if you want to work on cars or bikes and don't have an air compressor.
If you don't have one of these...or an air compressor with an actual air impact gun, yer in for a treat.
The front sprocket nut size is 27mm
You will need a breaker bar to get it loose, and someone holding the rear break down. The easiest way to get it off is prolly by torching it with a propane torch (you can get them at any hardware or automotive store) for about 30 seconds and then going at it with a breaker bar. Again...be creative.
Step 4.
Remove the rear axle nut. The rear axle nut is 32mm. The rear axle nut is held on with 94 ft-lbs of torque.
Once you get the nut and the washer off, you need to push the axle through. I used a rubber mallet. Once you get enough of the axle out the other side, then pull on it the rest of the way. You may need to hold the tire in place with something while you do this.
Step 5.
Cut the original chain off. I couldn't reuse it so i just cut it in half. Plus it had a ton of miles on it. I was going to throw it away anyway.
Step 6.
Replace the sprockets.
The sprockets are installed with the number that tells you how many teeth exist on each sprocket FACING OUTWARD.
The front sprocket should look the pretty much the same as the original. make sure the clearance from the bike is the same on both so the chain isn't crooked going back on. Once you get it on properly put the washer back on and then the front axle nut. keep these loose for now.
The rear sprocket is held on with 6x 14mm nuts at 43 ft-lbs of torque. I stood the wheel up and put it between my legs to loosen the nuts. I used the same method to put them back on. I also used BLUE threadlocker on each bolt when i reinstalled them.
The large silver ratchet to the side is a TORQUE wrench. EACH nut that is removed should be put back on with a regular ratchet until they are snug, then tightened to 43 ft-lbs with the torque wrench. You should tighten them in a star pattern.
There are two spacers on either side of the wheel that most likely fell out when you removed the wheel. The "T" looking spacer goes on the brake side of the wheel between the brake and the actual wheel. The solid spacer goes on the sprocket side of the wheel between the wheel and the swingarm. They are both circular silver spacers. I forgot to take a pic. if someone has one, please send it to me and i will add it.
Grease the axle up with whatever grease blows your skirt up, then realign the wheel inside the swingarm with the rear brake in place. The picture above shows the portion of metal that the brake caliper slides onto. This is a bitch. I sat on the ground behind the wheel and held it up with my feet/ankles while i cussed at the axle. Everything should line up and the axle should slide in. DO NOT FORCE IT. DO NOT HIT IT WITH ANYTHING METAL. you can tap the axle with a rubber mallet, but you need to be sure that the wheel is on straight...that the caliber is in place...and that the two spacers are in place.
Once you get the axle through the swingarm put the washer and rear axle nut back in place. Just snug them up for now, don't tighten them.
If your chain adjusters are set pretty far back, then loosen them with a 12mm wrench and move them forward. They should be at the first or second hash mark on the swingarm...or between the two.
Step 7.
The Chain.
My chain was too long. If you buy a package deal from a company you should get a chain that fits perfectly. I had to remove 3 links. I know this because i fit the chain around the two sprockets and it overlapped. With the chain adjuster on the swingarm set between the first and second hash, i pulled the chain tight and made a decision about how many links i should remove. It was 3 links. This is how i removed the 3rd link; I used a dremel and shaved the heads off both the rivets on the same side of the same link. Then i separated the link with a screwdriver and a rubber mallet. Be sure not to drive the screwdriver into anything important.
Once i got the chain to the length it needed to be i re routed it back onto the sprockets. The front and rear sprocket nuts need to be snug. The ends of the cha
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