Still dealing with this problem: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_63485/tm.htm

I got a shop manual and am trying to test a few things out....as best a novice can, but I need some help! I have not idea if these things are all related to my starting issues or not?

1. When I test the starter button (as described in the shop manual) I get 0.74volts and the manual says I should be getting 5-6.1volts. It states "If the tester reading is not specified one, replace IC igniter."

Should I just go ahead and replace this? Is there any other testing to do or that's it....the IC igniter is no good? Could this be the reason for my irratic starts?

2. I did the IC igniter operation check (per the manual again, though to me it seems to more check the wiring as the IC igniter is not even connected at that point) and it says I should get the same voltage as the battery, my battery is reading at about 12.78v and the IC wiring is reading at 12.42v. Is that close enough? Or is that a problem?

3. This could be related or seperate, but my "clutch lever button" (that allows the bike to start if the clutch lever is pulled in, but the bike is in gear) still isn't working (is this called the starter lockout switch?). I can't find anywhere in the manual how to test this to see if it's the actual button, the wiring etc?

Thanks for any help!

 

I disconnected the clutch switch (might be called starter lockout switch) wiring harness from the clutch switch and now the bike won't start at all. Tried several times and the bake gave no attempt to turn over (exact same symptoms as before, but now on a consistant basis).

So I'm wondering/thinking this switch might have been my problem all along. Would a problem with this switch cause the bike to sporatically not start? Could these two be related?

So now I'm thinking I might run a jumper on the harness for this switch to see if the bike: #1 will start up at all (as it's not starting at all since the harness has been disconnected) #2 If I can now start the bike while it's in gear (as this will replicate the clutch lever being pulled in......and I konw, I know to actually pull the clutch lever in while starting).

I want to make sure I jump the wires correctly. Is Black to Black w/ Yellow correct (and then Black w/ red to a ground)? I put the multimeter on all three wires and here is what I got:

Black=0.665 Black w/ Red=0.305 Black w/ Yellow=0.010

If need be I can scan the wiring diagram if it would help somebody to help me ensure that I jump these wires correctly (and confirm that jumping these wires as a test is a good/safe idea).

Thanks!

 

Electricity sucks man. It's my worst thing. Hang on a bit and someone will be along that can help though.

 

Jumped that harness for the clutch switch (using the black w/ yellow as the ground and the bike started right up in nuetral. However in gear it still would not start up (I did put the kick stand up when trying to start in gear, with the clutch in). So from this I guess I can conclude that clutch switch is working fine (as a direct jumper didn't do anything).

I hooked the harness back up and I'm exactly back where I started.....if the bike starts right up every time, but seemingly randomly it won't start at all.


Any thoughts on either problem (not starting with the bike in gear and the clutch in and not starting at all sporatically)????

HELP!!

 

Found out that you need to jump the two outside wires to simulate the clutch being pulled in.....when I did that the bike would start in gear!

The spring on the starter lockout switch seemed to be week, so it wouldn't "pop out" when the clutch lever was pulled in....so it wasn't completing the the circut. I ordered a new switch...so I think the problem is solved!!