Both were in when I took it apart, just one fell out when I reassembling. Now whether it was seated correctly and maybe sitting in the wrong spot.

Currently both are on top of the clip

 

Well.the bogging was starting to drive me crazy...so took the carb apart again. Checked everything closely. Made sure the top cover was perfectly flat (made a slight tweek). Massaged the diapragm so that it was fully seated, plus closely inspected it. Carefully put everything back together. Used a level to ensure the carb was perfecting positioned. BOGGING AT 5-5,500 RPM IS COMPLETELY GONE. Very happy

Thx for your help

 

Finally, someone with the issue found the solution. You or I need to start a new thread - so others can easily find it - called "Midrange Bogging/Stuttering Solved" or a similar title. Include your history with modding the bike and the "emergence" of the issue etc etc..

This always smelled of aberrant slide behavior due to "user error", but you're the first to confirm it.


Outstanding work Kevin.

 

Prior to fixing this, when I manually pushed up the slide it would kind of do a suction/resistance thing on the way up, where the amount of pressure needed changed (no other way I can explain it). After I put it together the final time, it wasn't doing this even after multiple times trying to recreate it. I'm not sure if that has any bearing on the solution or not.

 

Well it's hard to make "heads or tails" of your above experience - main thing is that you did experience a difference when manually lifting the slide - I guess with your finger - before and after this latest teardown/fix..

Now, how bout the minutia..

 

Was your diaphragm not seating perfectly in the groove originally ?

Was your cap mis-shape'd and not providing a 360° seal?


I hope it's the cap as that's the one thing that has escaped consideration during all this strife trying to find a solution.. Wouldn't it be terrible if that piece of tin, sightly tweaked outta shape, is the reason some have had to replaced the entire CVK..

 

Sorry for the late reply Klxster...I just noticed it now. I think I may have slightly bent the tin cap when I was getting a troublesome screw out the first time. I had to hammer the screw with a flat headed screw driver as the head was stripped. I noticed the cap was slightly off when I placed on a flat surface. I tweaked it to make it flat. This, plus being extra careful on the diaphragm seating was probably what fixed it for me

 

Ok Kevin.. I'll update my CVK troubleshooting thread with this info..




https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-fixes-43146/

 

Hey guys... just did a quick browse thru of this thread and my head hurts!

I think my beloved 2007 "KLX351KX" has some carb issues. I'm an American living in Malaysia where it's really hard to get parts OR quality service. I've got some friends from California coming out next week so I was going to buy some stuff on line, ship it to them so they could bring it with them. (Mail here is very slow, expensive, unreliable and IF it gets here import tax often doubles the price).

I was just going to buy a new carb off amazon with a DJ jet kit.

I found BOTH a TM 36-68 "Flatside" and a TM36-68 "smooth bore" and wasn't sure which one to get? Any thoughts? And if I order a jet kit to go with it which would be best?

My bike has the 351cc bored out once so probably 370 cc, with Bill Blue's Barker exhaust system, the KDX 200 snorkel and the front of the air box lid has a gap of about 1/2" on it. It currently has Bill Blue's Mikuni 33mm bored out to 34mm carb. Oh and the weather here is ALWAYS HOT & HUMID; riding between 200-1,000' ASL.

Background on the carb for anyone interested: I've got over 220,000 KM on the bike; about 160,000KM on Bill Blue's carb. I do lots of riding in 3rd world countries with crappy gas and have even put kerosene in the tank once due to my Thai language incompetence at a small town Thai gas station! Love my Acerbis tank, but the cap leaks and we have torrential down pours here and water commonly gets in the tank. It used to keep the engine from starting but I learned to just open the drain on the float bowl and it starts no problem.
Last year it had an issue in Myanamar where the bike stopped running. It would then start, but die as soon as I gave it any gas. I was in the middle of nowhere close to war zones. I found if I pulled the choke the rpm's went way up of course but I could twist the throttle and it wouldn't die. I did about 50 miles like that to get to a town where a mechanic I couldn't communicate with at all seemed to realize the problem, took the carb apart, cleaned the jets and it worked afterwards.
It's now doing the same thing again but a couple of places have just told me the shaft the needle slides in is broken and I need a new carb. I LOVE this bike and have no qualms spending $3-400 to make it run good again!

 

Oh yeah... what does "MCM" stand for?