Nooby here, I've had my klx for about 2 months now first bike ever. After cleaning it up I noticed oil slings everywhere from the front sprocket. I assume its a seal I just need to know where to find the right one and how easy it is to replace.

 

Do a search on this forum for 'countershaft seal' and you will get many posts of the subject. The hardest part of the job is getting the nut off of the front sprocket, the rest is pretty simple. Take a close look at the collar and o-ring that fits over the shaft-if they are damaged/worn you will also need to replace them.

 

Ya not a big deal to do.. but make sure it's not just flings from chain lube, some of that crap can fling everywhere.. I used a different one last week and I had "oil" everywhere, from shock spring to halfway up case..

 

If you don't have an air gun to remove the sprocket, I suggest you borrow one or take it to a shop that has one to get it off.

 

Or with the chain on the bike, have someone hold the rear brake and use a long breaker bar. But if it's easy to load in a truck/trailer I'd take it to a shop or someone who has a 1/2 drive impact and a 175psi compressor if the breaker bar fails or it is just easy to do so. I've done both before.

Going a bit off topic...

When you finish remember one thing -

When you adjust your chain KNOW the range of slack needed. Chains need some slack, same as the cam drive, too tight can damage parts.[/B] Go look at a properly set up motocross bike that has 12" of travel, look how loose the chains are on them. Plenty of play to avoid being too tight at the point of longest distance.

Too tight chain can pull on CS sprocket and rear wheel can damage components like bearings and even crack cases if too tight to travel through the tightest point. Due to the offset of the counter shaft to the swing arm pivot the distance from the counter shaft to the axle distance will be shortened, making for the extra slack in the chain. This slack is necessary to have the proper slack when the pivot points line up making the tightest point for the chain.

Don't be overly concerned with looseness in the chain at full extension of the suspension. Even if lose, it takes some serious situation to derail the chain, like a side load of significance. The chain guide is there to keep the chain in line as it feeds to the sprocket, rendering virtually all side forces harmless. Most chain derailments ar due to either bad adjustment mis-alignement of sprockets, chain adjuster failure either breaking or mechanical issues.

To find the least amount of slack required by the chain at full suspension extension, first find the minimum slack at the tightest point. To do this:

• Compress the rear suspension to the point where the counter shaft sprocket, swing arm, and rear axle are in line, I used a tie down over the seat.
• Adjust the chain for about 1 to 1-1/2" of play in the chain.
• Release the rear to full suspension extension.
• Check the chain slack at the back of the plastic chain slider on the swing arm (that is about 1/2 way between pivot and axle, per the manual), that is where your chain slack should be - at the tightest!

Keep in mind better loose than too tight.

I don't trust stamped in markings for adjustment. I use something to measure equal length from swing arm pivot to axle. I usually use a tape measure or some line that has no stretch to it if I have to. The other thing to do is to look up the chain line from the back for sprocket alignment.

 

I think you're actually right about the chain lube haha

 

Sometimes my nonsense makes sense lol

Glad it's something simple