THIS IS FOR AN 2006 ZX6R with a yoshimura rs-5 slipon exhaust:

okay so i have just replaced the fuel pump, spark plugs, battery, and have taken off my PCIII USB... the fuel pump because was failing to give off right pressure, battery because last one died, and plugs because last ones were burnt out, also had the entire 24k mile service done including a valve adjustment....my exhaust was just a yoshimura rs-5 slipon, i had the PC3 on because it came as a package deal pretty nice price...and the pc3 was running on a map i received off another forum from a guy that did a mod akra slipon map....

well long story short i found that the map was burning my plugs out too quick and was very rich so i took it off and ever since my bike has been really lean, like making a rumble sound on accelerations from stop signs/stop lights, also felt like my bike would also not have really smooth transition up the rpm's sometimes felt well jiggy...well i know that to be because i don't have the map running to smooth it out i was advised that i didn't need to run the map with that exhaust being told that the exhaust really didn't need to be run with a pc3 which was designed more for the full exhaust systems...

well recently i have noticed that my bikes idle was really low on cold starts...like below the norm...so i moved my idle up and it didn't go up that significantly....also i found that if i turned it up as far as it went it would take a long time before it would get above 1.5k idle...i also observed that when i turn the bike on after getting to the idle about 1.4k it will then go up like if i was holding onto the throttle till it got up to like 2.2k or 2.1k...i felt that weird because before on cold starts it would stay at around 1.5k and not go much above it...and be pretty stable, i also noticed that when i ran it down from being to high(meaning above 1.5k i would turn the idle screw to the left because i didn't want it that high) then it would take forever and not seem to get much lower than 1.4k rpm's...

i also noticed that my bike backfires more often like if i am holding in the clutch in first and i kind of give it a little gas before i start to let out it will backfire pretty loud!!


so to get to the point, at school today it was around 50 degrees to 40 degrees F and i went to start my bike...it started then became unstable it started at a very low idle to long to get up a little above 1k rpm line then dropped to zero and bike died....i then tried to start it again, it did the same thing and died this time dying quicker. i then started a third time and this time gave it more gas and revved it up a bit and held it before lowering it, it then went to 1.5k and stayed there...

this has happened before and when it did i took it home and thought that there was a big issue with being too lean, so i put my pc3 back on that has been sitting on my room made sure it had been installed correctly then checked to make sure was on the regular akra slipon map from the power commander website and then loaded map turned it on...seemed stable and the idle was low then put it in gear let out and went to ride off it died before i could let the clutch out all the way, i then tried again gave a little more gas but acted even more lean than the bike without the pc3...i know the pc3 isn't broken because i was able to plug the battery in and load the map and i checked the wires and it looks to be in good condition...no big worries there..no water on the plugs...

so this leaves me with a big issue that i don't know how to diagnose...what could it be causing my bike to die while i just started it and am standing next to it?????

i also noticed that even on regular starts(meaning when it has been sometime before starting but the engine isn't fully cold and has to warm up) i have noticed sometimes an unstable idle for a bit...

any help would be greatly appreciated...

 

wonder if the O2 sensor is giving a weird reading to the PC...

whats the A/F meter reading? should be kinda lean on idle and just off idle, settle into stoich..

lemme re-read here and thing about it.. maybe i can come up with something better than that..

 

thanks for the reply man i am looking into everything from the o2 sensor being off to maybe even some other sensor wrong.....

i am taking it by my bike shop on next friday and see if they can tell through and inspection what could be the issue...

 

I don't think that bike has an O2 sensor. Either your Secondary throttle actuator has gone bad or it's bad gas/ faulty injectors. Did you drain the tank completely when you changed the fuel pump? If so, rule out the bad gas theory. Still could be the injectors though. RXP is a good cheap start to eliminate any gas/ dirty injector problems. It could also be your ECU that's messing up from the extra undertail heat from the RS-5. That is more likely the problem. Is your FI light on?

 

no fi light and when the bike will die it will act like i turned the key off and back on....meaning it will re prime...also i watched it and won't give off error code...that i can see..

where could i get some rxp, isn't that liquid injector cleaner??? and yes i drained the tank completely...so i could just get ahold of some rxp and read the directions and put some in and run it to see if it could get rid of some issues...

i doubt that the slip on caused the ecu to screw up from the heat or i would know about it....it would fi on me but it doesn't

about the pc3 it was broken so putting it on the bike didn't help....

 

well after a couple more days i got some rxp off of amazon.com but now my bike won't start...it happened this morning it just wouldn't start i tried to give it some gas and it just made a thumping sound and some exhaust came out but it didn't start...it was still running yesterday...

i also found that i had to add a full quart of sythetic engine oil, because it had somehow burned a quart of oil!! i had just changed the oil like 1900 miles ago and had put in almost 4 quarts!!

after putting in some more oil and letting it sit there almost all day i came home from school and it still didn't start so i am like what gives???

there is no fi light, nor any error or anything, just acts as if i was trying to start it and the fuel pump was out or something...the fuel pump has less than 6k miles and i have never gotten below 1 gallon before or ever ran out...

 

i had a similar problem almost a year back. my bike would start to break up on acceleration and then die while riding on the highway. the fi light would come on as it would sputter and back fire, the bike would die and then you would hear the fuel pump prime by itself with out me turning off the bike. also it wouldn't store the code. i would let it rest for 10 minutes and it would start perfectly and after another 5 miles it would die again. then i posted my problem on this forum and speedracer138 suggested that the ecu could be my problem. well i noticed that when i put my muzzy pipe on, i took the heatshield off and that lead to me cooking the ecu becuase after it left me stranded i took the solo seat off and that computer was hot as hell. also i found that if you would wiggle the computer while the bike was warm it would start to miss. maybe your ecu has some internal damage. i found an ecu on ebay. installed the heatshield and my problem was solved. hope this helps you. also thanks speedracer138. i never got to say thanks.

 

well if it ever became the ecu i would change it out with a euro ecu gives me an excuse but i doubt it because i have a heat shield i put under the tail between the yosh and the ecu...and i think it did its job as a heat shield...

i will take it under advisement but right now i am going to have it towed and then tell the mechanic what i think it is...because i think it could be the fuel pump either broke, ecu broke, or something major wrong with either electrical or with the fuel injectors..

 

i don't have any fi light there wasn't one so i don't think that the ecu is broken...could it be the starter??? or maybe there is a clog in the fuel line???

 

Can't use a Euro ECU because they have the Immobilizer built in and you'll need a lot of other parts. I have a used good ECU if you need one. The problem with slip-ons are that there isn't any heatshields with them so the radiate more heat and melt stuff especially delicate electronic circuits inside the ECU. he Relay junction box on the LH side under the tail fairing can also cause problems like you are describing. Good idea is to get some heat barrier material from an Auto Parts store and line the underside of the undertail (above the mid-pipe and muffler.). You can also get RXP from AutoZone or most Auto Parts store for about $7.

Also make sure your battery is fully charged. As far as the oil consumption; that could be an issue. Take a compression test.

Where are you located?