it seems like my bike isnt as fast off the line as when i first got it, i got 300 miles on the new 06, and at 600 i get the valves adjusted, when i get the valves adjusted will i get the jump off the line like i used to have? maybe ive been breaking it in wrong, it is the first bike ive had to break in... throw some thoughts at me.

 

Theoretically, yes. once your valves are adjusted again, they won't open up quite as much as they did before, creating more low-end torque in sacrifice to a lower peak horsepower at the upper RPM range.

Not overheating the engine is the key to proper break-in. So don't race your engine really hard, and for prolonged periods when it's new. There is nothing wrong with the occasional higher revs, but keep it short while breaking in.

 

i live in vegas, so the engine does get hot, but if it ever gets over 225 i turn her off and let her rest, i ride around a lot at night to break her in to..

 

The over heating I'm talking about has more to do with extreme combustion chamber temps caused by a heavy load at high rpm. That will cause the oil film on your fresh cylinder walls to oxidize.

Your coolant temp won't matter as long as you are not getting above 230+


I have posted this link many times before, but it is really helpful in explaining what I'm trying to say.
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

 

Good article Mark. If the race teams had to follow the manufacturers break in procedure, they'd have to have spare engines lined up that had lots of miles on them. I would build my motors, start them, let them get up to temperature, check for leaks and let cool down again. Prep the bike and go out for practice. Main thing is not to keep it at a constant rpm for a long time. Like the article said, let the rings cool down and use mineral based oils (which is what the bikes come with when new) for the first couple of thousand miles.

 

Grrr, I wish I would've read that article before I got my bike. I'm up to about 1100 miles on my bike, and since they claim to keep it under 4000 rpm for the first 500 or so miles, I would load the engine with low rpm in high gears. Luckily there were a few times when I revved it kinda hard during the first 150 miles, so maybe that did a little good.

 

i have to tell you guys i disagree here, i believe in following the engines manufacturers break in specifications: the first 1000 miles that the motorcycle is ridden is designated as the break in period. if the motorcycle is not used carefully during this period, you may very well end up with a "broken down" motorcycle instead of a "broken in" motorcycle after a few thousand miles. the following rules should be observed during the break in period. 0- 500 miles maximum egine speed = 4,000 rpms 500-1000 miles maximum egine speed = 6,000 rpms. do not start moving or race the engine immediately after starting it, even if the engine is already warm. run the engine for two or three minutes at idle speed to give the oil a chance to work up into all the engine parts. do not race the engine while the transmission is in nuetral. thats taken straight out of the owners manual, and i read the article about verying rpms, and not staying steady or running a synthetic, if you got your bike uncrated and purchased from a dealer chances are you are running a semi sythetic yamalube or honda racing oil or one of those anyway, and riding around town is going to very the rpm ranges just by hitting stop lights and encountering traffic while breaking in the new bike. i say if you get a brand new bike and start racing the **** out of it before its broken in and you ignore the engines manufacturers specs on engine break in, you are asking for problems with your engine and your bike. just my opinion. [:-]

 

IMO you ride the bike normally varying the RPMs and letting it warm up and cool down. Take it easy the first few hundred miles. When we hang a green engine on an airplane we run it up and bring it down and run it up again to break it in this varys the speed and temp of the engine. . It's the varying temperatures and speeds that allows everything to seat properly. Again this is just my opinion but i think what is good for a plane would have the same affect on a bike.

 

I rode my bike from Minnesota with only 51 miles on it, varied the RPM's, took it to redline a few times on the freeway, and leaving stoplights or onlamps and put a 1000 miles on the way home. I Changed the oil & filter as soon as I got home. My bike runs great, doesn't burn any oil and put out almost 108 HP with only a PCIII; no custom mapping. It feels faster & stronger now with almost 9000 miles. I think the most important thing on a NEW engine is to change the oil as soon as recommended. All the newly machined parts wear together and you have fine metal particles suspended in the oil and when you change it, it get dumped out. I also have a magnet on my oil drain bold and around my filter to attract any metal in the oil. As long as you don't abuse the bike when new, your engine should be fine. Everyone has a different opinion on how to best break-in engines; it all depend on which one you decide to follow. The new metal technology is advanced and as long as the internal parts don't get overheated, you're OK. Take care of your bike and she'll take care of you.

 

Talked to the techs at a shop near my place where they compared exact same year/model bikes following the 4000RPM for 500 miles and 6000RPM for 1000 miles break in between bikes that were broken in where the rider rides the bike how they are going to be doing the majority of their riding. In this case it was a person who would ride it around at about 7k while vary speed and doing some slow run ups to around 10-11k from time to time to let the engine stretch it's legs then slowly come back down. Not riding for longer than 30 minutes at a time and then waiting 30 minutes to start riding again. The difference between the bikes on the dyno was a difference of 8 HP. Amazed the hell out of me and will always be in the back of my mind when I see that sticker telling you to keep it at 4000 RPM sticker on someone's bike.