it is a pain in the a**, but you can put your original clip on bars above your triple tree clamp.

here's how:
remove tree and clip ons

raise froks in lower tree. i raised about 5/8 of an inch, this barely give the clip-ons enough room to clamp, but maximises rider grip height.

drill through hole w 4.5mm bit where clip ons used to bolt to the bottom of the upper tree. i used a cordless drill and held my breath trying not to nick the existing threads. you could put it on a drill press, but then you'd have to figure out how to get the ignition off. now there will be a half threaded hole through and through to the top of the upper tree.

tap the existing threads (M6 X 1.0 D5) until you hit the unthreaded part you just drilled. (technically this tap should be used with a 5mm hole, but i was too scared to try and drill without hitting the threads so used a 4.5mm) so tap slowly.

re-install triple tree.

move all components on handlebars 1/4 outward. if this is not done, the hardline stub out for the front brake hydraulic line will not fit past the triple tree.

re-install clip-ons above the tree.

buy longer bolts to go though the clip-ons and into the triple tree. fabricate spacers to fill the void between clip-on bloting point and the tree (haven't done this yet)

unbolt mirrors and insert nylon washers between the front cowling and the mirror mounts (haven't done this yet either, but it should give the necesarry clearance between you hands/bars and the edges of your fairing near the windscreen)

i'm hoping this change will allow me to ride longer with less neck/back pain!

good luck!

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...8/DSCN1053.jpg

 

question: lowering the front will affect handling. So did you also lower the rear or change tires, that kind of thing?

 

i've been told that the sterring andgle will steepen by 1/2 degree with this change, making the bike i little bit more squirelly. left the a** end alone, not worried about it. same tires.

 

.625" is quite abit to drop one side only. Yes twitchy is of concern. If you are comfy with the ride results, then it is all good. I see early turn ins with slappers at the moment.

 

thats alot of drop in the front end, if you lower the rear to match you wont be squirrellie but will also loose some turning clearance.

 

i totally see where you are coming from. i have yet to ride it so who knows. would take it out now, but it snowing here in portland, or. do you know of any linkage replacements that only lower .625? it seems like they range only from 1 to 3inches?

 

i forget who custom drills the linkage to what you want, hopefully someone will chime in on that one. how close are you in the front from tapping the upper fairing on the front fender ?

 

it looks to be a decent amount of clearance?? i guess i'll have to go out, put some finger paint on the top of the fender, do a wheelie, come down kinda hard, and see if there is any paint on the front cowling. (then wipe it all off)

 

please get video of that

 

Portland,,, I have not looked at the OMRRA schedule since I do not ride that one anymore. But to stay on topic, do you have shims on the shock linkage to take out and drop the rear? I am not that familiar with the 6r