yes motor swap, the older 6r's arent to hard to rebuild though, all you have to do is the top end. you shouldent have to get into the bottom at all. if i needed to do this i would give 2 days to rebuild +parts (and alot of corona)

 

want to sell the bike?

 

Thatsound likea Rod Knock! You can try and remove the cap fron the camchain tensioner and push the plunger just to eliminate the tensioner of cam chain noise but it sounds like a rod to me. Don'r run it long like that because when the rod bearing wears out, the pistons will hit the valves. You can verify the rod bearing by draining the oil. If there are a lot of silver/ aluminum flakes & chips in the oil, it's definitely the rod bearing.

 

Yup, I agree on the rod knock.

 

how much would i get it for it? lol

 

if it is a rod bearing, can i just fix that part and be done with it, or is not that simple??

 

Depends if the crank journal is damaged or not. You will have to remove the engine or remove the oil pan and get under it, take the rod cap off and inspect & measure the journal. If it's not worn or damaged, you may be able to replace the bearing.

 

Do the pistons really come within.... say..... the thickness of a quarter, from hitting the valves When there is a bearing in perfect condition on there?
Cause thats how thick the bearings are.. about the same thickness as a quarter.
(or less - I've never opened a motorcycle engine up YET to see but on my 3.8L v6 engine they are less than the thickness of a quarter)

Personally, if it were mine I would rebuild the whole thing to have a fresh engine to rape and rag out
(bearings, rings, cam chain tensioner, gaskets, and top end stuff)
Kinda wish I had a bad zx9r engine so I could get to work on it NOW
good luck with your decisions

 

i agree with ted, speed, and EZ..

rod knock.

my new turbo-destined motor came to me with a blown head gasket. thus the freebie it was..

therefore, i shall chance NOTHING and do a complete rebuild.

you should do the same.. chances are, the bore is still ok enough to reuse w/o sleeving.
comp check it tho to make sure

plastigage the rod bearings. and do all of them.. more than likely, it was oil starvation that caused this.. probably from massive wheelies.. better off literally removing the motor and replacing the cam, rod and crank bearings.. thoses are all babbit-type bearings and won't last but a few seconds without lubrication, unlike ball or roller bearings.. you can get a little bit of time out of them before catastrophic failure commences.


do not run that motor any more than you have to.

 

why the heck dont they use ball bearings for motors?
lowbenefit vs. price?