Fully Synthetic Oil
#22
RE: Fully Synthetic Oil
ORIGINAL: speedracer138
Also, KevyzToy, Handy stands are $89 for front & rear stands
Also, KevyzToy, Handy stands are $89 for front & rear stands
#23
RE: Fully Synthetic Oil
I ran the Kawasaki oil in my bike until 2200 mi.
I then switched to Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W40 with a K&N oil filter. (K&N is $1.00 cheeper than the stealors factory Kawasaki filter)
my bike loves it. the engine temp is almost 10 deg cooler due to les friction.
I am changing my oil every 2500-3000 mi now.
The Royal Purple was hard to find and the closest cycle dealor to me is 3 hrs away.
My buddy has a performance shop in town and is a Royal Purple dealer (regular automotive stuff). I talked him in to stocking the Max Cycle and becoming a cycle dealor so he gives me a good deal on it.
The stuff is kind of spendy though.
My total oil change is about $45-$50 (oil and filter)
as far as switching your bike over just make sure its broke in and do the oil change. you just dont want to switch back to conventional oil after you run synthetic for a while. Also you dont want to switch a bike (or anything else) over to synthetic with a engine with high miles on it. a worn engine has more play in the bearing and rings due to wear and tear. The synthetic will pass by and may cause leaks and or may burn (i.e. blue smoke).
This is what i have been told, hopefully it is to some help to someone.
When i change my oil i just take the belly pan off my bike and change it on the kickstand. there will always be a little oil somewhere in the crank case but i change my oil and filter often enough to keep it clean. The synthetic oil does not brake down like conventional so as long as you have a good filter the oil will stay clean
I then switched to Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W40 with a K&N oil filter. (K&N is $1.00 cheeper than the stealors factory Kawasaki filter)
my bike loves it. the engine temp is almost 10 deg cooler due to les friction.
I am changing my oil every 2500-3000 mi now.
The Royal Purple was hard to find and the closest cycle dealor to me is 3 hrs away.
My buddy has a performance shop in town and is a Royal Purple dealer (regular automotive stuff). I talked him in to stocking the Max Cycle and becoming a cycle dealor so he gives me a good deal on it.
The stuff is kind of spendy though.
My total oil change is about $45-$50 (oil and filter)
as far as switching your bike over just make sure its broke in and do the oil change. you just dont want to switch back to conventional oil after you run synthetic for a while. Also you dont want to switch a bike (or anything else) over to synthetic with a engine with high miles on it. a worn engine has more play in the bearing and rings due to wear and tear. The synthetic will pass by and may cause leaks and or may burn (i.e. blue smoke).
This is what i have been told, hopefully it is to some help to someone.
When i change my oil i just take the belly pan off my bike and change it on the kickstand. there will always be a little oil somewhere in the crank case but i change my oil and filter often enough to keep it clean. The synthetic oil does not brake down like conventional so as long as you have a good filter the oil will stay clean
#24
RE: Fully Synthetic Oil
I will be trying MOTUL oils in my bike. One of my coworkers is a distributor so it'll be easily available. His son races Go-Karts and the motor is still holding together while the competitions are blowing up. He's winning races too! Must be good stuff so I'll give it a shot.
#26
RE: Fully Synthetic Oil
I put the Motul in JDPerez's bike and it does seem to run better. Maybe it's because the color of the oil is Green. No really. It shifts very smooth also.
#27
RE: Fully Synthetic Oil
I add Motul Semi blend in my 636. I was told the full syn is not good for our bikes because of our wet clutch, is that true? Also about the rear stand... if you have frame sliders installed use the orginal bolts that you removed and put them in the threads in the swing arm and use regular jack stands. Easy as pie. Don't forget to remove them when your done though.
#28
RE: Fully Synthetic Oil
ORIGINAL: Humtek
I add Motul Semi blend in my 636. I was told the full syn is not good for our bikes because of our wet clutch, is that true? Also about the rear stand... if you have frame sliders installed use the orginal bolts that you removed and put them in the threads in the swing arm and use regular jack stands. Easy as pie. Don't forget to remove them when your done though.
I add Motul Semi blend in my 636. I was told the full syn is not good for our bikes because of our wet clutch, is that true? Also about the rear stand... if you have frame sliders installed use the orginal bolts that you removed and put them in the threads in the swing arm and use regular jack stands. Easy as pie. Don't forget to remove them when your done though.
#30
RE: Fully Synthetic Oil
Oils Oils Oils....... Witch one to choose. I say find the one that looks the best or witch name you like the best lol cause basically they are all the same. they all protect as long as you change every 3k. Oh yeah you can drain on the rear stand just be sure to put her back down when you fill her up.... Dont want to put the wrong amount in. Like speed I too have a little over 10k on mine no probs.... and I use amsoil.