New ZX14...
#11
Thanks for the inputs
braz, just try to change the oil before 300 miles or so, and definately before it gets stored. Also put a battey tender on it while in storage to keep your battery from sulfating.
As far as standing out, the 14 just naturally does that, but I got a dark wind screen, muzzy megaphone exhaust system, and nitrous. Since it is passion red, loud as hell, with a NOS tank hanging on the side, it stands out more than I want it too sometimes. But most of the time, I like that!
As far as standing out, the 14 just naturally does that, but I got a dark wind screen, muzzy megaphone exhaust system, and nitrous. Since it is passion red, loud as hell, with a NOS tank hanging on the side, it stands out more than I want it too sometimes. But most of the time, I like that!
I will be storing it in two weeks until next spring!!! I am going again on a assignement overseas...that's life, somebody is got to do it!
Best regards,
brazeagle
#13
Braz, some tips on changing your oil.
1. I would run Kawichem 10/40 in it for the first change and up to about 1500 to 2000 miles. Change it about 300, 1000, and 2000 mles. At around 2000 miles, I would then go to synthetic oil. Some people put in sysnthetic at 600 miles but I like to make sure that everything is seated in before using the syn. The rings break in during the first 20 miles, but the cams and other parts take longer.
2. You can loosen the filter with channelock pliers if you do not have a filter wrench but you have to be careful or you will scratch some stuff up. Change the filter at every oil cange.
3. When changing oil, you can do it on the side stand, but after it has stopped draining, get on the bike and gently rock it from side to side and more will come out. I pour about a half quart through it just to bring all of the dirty oil out of the pan while the drain plug is still out.
4. The best drain pan to use is one of the cheap black plastic ones that you can buy at autozone.
5. Get a torque wrench and tighen the drain plug per shop manual torque recommendations. Damnit, I am not at home and cannot remember what the torque requirements are, 20 ft pounds I think.
6. Get somebody to hold the bike level and fill to halfway up on the sight glass located on the left side crank case cover.
7. After everything is buttoned up, you can pour out the old oil through a clean white rag to check for metal particulate. There will be some small particles so dont freak out. If there are a lot of large particles, keep them in a bottle and take them to your Kaw dealer and get a mechanic to look at them. I would also get a magnetic oil plug in the near future.
Hope this helps Bro!
1. I would run Kawichem 10/40 in it for the first change and up to about 1500 to 2000 miles. Change it about 300, 1000, and 2000 mles. At around 2000 miles, I would then go to synthetic oil. Some people put in sysnthetic at 600 miles but I like to make sure that everything is seated in before using the syn. The rings break in during the first 20 miles, but the cams and other parts take longer.
2. You can loosen the filter with channelock pliers if you do not have a filter wrench but you have to be careful or you will scratch some stuff up. Change the filter at every oil cange.
3. When changing oil, you can do it on the side stand, but after it has stopped draining, get on the bike and gently rock it from side to side and more will come out. I pour about a half quart through it just to bring all of the dirty oil out of the pan while the drain plug is still out.
4. The best drain pan to use is one of the cheap black plastic ones that you can buy at autozone.
5. Get a torque wrench and tighen the drain plug per shop manual torque recommendations. Damnit, I am not at home and cannot remember what the torque requirements are, 20 ft pounds I think.
6. Get somebody to hold the bike level and fill to halfway up on the sight glass located on the left side crank case cover.
7. After everything is buttoned up, you can pour out the old oil through a clean white rag to check for metal particulate. There will be some small particles so dont freak out. If there are a lot of large particles, keep them in a bottle and take them to your Kaw dealer and get a mechanic to look at them. I would also get a magnetic oil plug in the near future.
Hope this helps Bro!
#14
Oil Change
Thank you very much for all the info.
Very useful and I am doing it all next Sunday, before I store the bike.
Take care and lets keep in touch.
Best regards,
brazeagle
Very useful and I am doing it all next Sunday, before I store the bike.
Take care and lets keep in touch.
Best regards,
brazeagle
#16
Oh Braz, dont forget to put fuel stabilizer in your tank, fill it up, and ride for about 10 minutes to get the stabilizer into the fuel rail and the injectors. Do this right before you put her up for the winter and plug in the batt tender!
I use Stabil fuel stabilizer.
I use Stabil fuel stabilizer.
#17
Oil change went well.
braz, just try to change the oil before 300 miles or so, and definately before it gets stored. Also put a battey tender on it while in storage to keep your battery from sulfating.
As far as standing out, the 14 just naturally does that, but I got a dark wind screen, muzzy megaphone exhaust system, and nitrous. Since it is passion red, loud as hell, with a NOS tank hanging on the side, it stands out more than I want it too sometimes. But most of the time, I like that!
As far as standing out, the 14 just naturally does that, but I got a dark wind screen, muzzy megaphone exhaust system, and nitrous. Since it is passion red, loud as hell, with a NOS tank hanging on the side, it stands out more than I want it too sometimes. But most of the time, I like that!
Thanks
Luiz
#19
Riding in Ohio, ONE DAY
I am in New York City (home), but I am always somewhere else in the world...
Take care and enjoy it.
Luiz
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