Ok I got a few problems...During the restoration of my '08 650R I did the pair valve delete. I researched the mod thru several forums and ended up taking off the whole system and installing the block off plate. The first time I used a resistor in place of the valve to eliminate throwing a code which it did anyway while riding. So I came back home, read the code, and tried what several forums recommended, just hooking the two wires together. This caused the bike to go into limp modeafter a short ride at highway speeds and when I pulled over it died after a few seconds. It turned over only two or three times then acted like the battery was dead with the solenoid clicking a couple times.

I towed the bike home and tore into it. I tried to read the code the FI light will not do anything but stay lit constantly, even when the ignition is off. I pulled the tank off and disconnected the pair valve mod and plugged the valve back in. I also took the air box off and discovered the throttle body on the #2 cylinder was completely full of standing fuel and the #1 throttle body was half full! I also checked all electrical, vacuume and hose connections but found nothing. Everything I have read says solid FI light is some type of electrical failure...

Do I have bad fuel injectors? ECU? sensor?

I am at a loss for what to do now...

Any help is appreciated.

 

What happened when you ran the bike after your above quote?

 

It will not even try to start. I bypassed the starter solenoid just to make sure it was'nt an interference issue with the motor but it turned over fine. Im leaning toward an ECU failure or fuel injector failure...What happens when an injector goes out? Does it simply not open or does it stay open? All the standing fuel in my throttle bodies and the fuel pump sounding like it was constantly running leads me to believe this.

 

What service codes are you flashing? A series of long and short blinks of the FI indicator light.
Do you know how to use the self diagnose procedure? I can write that procedure up next if needed. (user mode, dealer mode 1, dealer mode 2)

If the problem is with the FI light itself, the fuel pump, the fuel pump relay, the ECU Main Relay, the ECU Power Source Wiring or the Fuel Injectors, then the ECU cannot memorize these problems and the FI indicator light will not go on.

Checks from my khi factory 09-11 manual:

Fuel injector resistance check- #1 W/R to BLK/R Terminal: #2-W/R to BL/G Terminal

Standard: About 11.7~12.3 ohms at 68 deg F

 

The FI light is on solid, even when the ignition is off it stays on soilid! I have tried to get it into diag mode by grounding the black/orange striped wire but it has no effect. Before the last ride I was able to read the pairing valve code. I have the service manual and I'm gonna try to check the fuel injectors ohm values next. I don't think there is a problem with the fuel pump or its relay because I could hear it running...I'll let ya know what I find.

 

crap, my bad. I did not reread your issue prior to my comments.

 

That is what I am reading as well. Maybe as simple as a ground issue since that is how you read the codes in the different modes. Just thinking out loud here.

 

You might have it, I'm gonna take off the grounds and file down the contact points. Should have done this anyway on assembly since I just had the frame powder coated. Figured it would get enough thru the bolts. I also checked the injector OHM values and they are both right on.

 

Ok, I checked the bike over and figured out it only has two ground points on the bike. From the battery negative terminal two wires leave, one to the motor as a #6 maybe? The other is a 14 guage that goes back to the subframe next to the ECU. I took the ground off and removed all the powder coating and buffed the terminal.

Next I put the tank back on & hooked everything back up. Turn the key on and the #2 injector commences to filling the throttle body up! I swapped #1 & #2 injector wires and now #1 starts spraying like mad. At this point leads me to believe the wire is grounding out or its a constant ground from the ECU. (The ECU switches the ground on/off to fire the injectors) I then pulled the #2 injector wire out of the ECU plug and checked to make sure its not grounding. No problem there. Next I put my multimeter on voltage and a constant hot and found out the ECU is sending a constant ground to the #2 injector!

Next step, new ECU...

 

Thanks for the update. Sounds like you have this wupped! But why would a new bikes ECU be bad already(well an '08 is new IMO)? That is just wrong.