Greetings all,

I'm a new rider learning on my first bike, a 1991 EX 500 (pre-Ninja). I'm trying my hand at maintenance as well as learning the finer points of riding. I noticed when reinstalling the rear wheel after changing out the rear brakes (drum) and sproket that I can't get the recommended amount of torque on the axle nut w/out the wheel feeling like it's binding. All parts were accounted for in the reinstallation. Is this indicative of a bearing problem?

Thanks,
Ted


P.s.
I'll upload a pic this weekend!

 

Hi Ted.
Sorry for the dumb question, but we have to eliminate the possible easy problems first.
Are you torquing it down the correct amount? The manual specifies Metric 110 Newton-Meters, but if your wrench only lists Standard Foot Pounds, (or if you're looking at the incorrect scale on your wrench, you might be over-tightening it by enough to cause the binding. If your wrench only specifies Foot-pounds, try tightening it to 80.
It's a common mistake, so don't be embarrassed.

I doubt it's your wheel-bearings, unless you took it for a ride while it was overtightened. You can test your wheel bearings by simply mounting the wheel and tightening the axle nut to the correct torque, then grab the wheel(/tire) with both hands and attempt to jiggle it laterally. There should be no play or 'clicking'. The other test you should also do is simply spinning it--there should be no rough spots.

If you're certain you've got the torque correct and the wheel is definitely binding, remove the wheel again, then remove both the brake drum and sprocket assembly. You should be able to reach in there with your fingers and spin the inner bearing race with your fingers. It will have some resistance, but that should be smooth and even, with no grit or rough spots.

If you just bought the bike, and the previous owner sold it to you like this, you might want to remove everything and compare it with the exploded parts diagram in your manual or on http://www.buykawasaki.com/ The only time I've ever run into this before was when a dealership forgot to reinstall a spacer between the hub and sprocket assembly, (then when I came back for it, they insisted that I forgot it.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
-CCinC

 

Excellent response ^^^

I was going to say the same thing about a spacer, or crush washer if that's what it has. But I would say it's most likely being overtightened for one reason or another.

 

Well, see, that's the thing: I'm concerned about it because it seems to bind before I get the proper amount of torque on the nut. I'm no Mr. Universe, but I've worked on Apache helicopters. I know the feel of 80 ftlbs of torque. Before I get to 60 ftlbs the wheel experiences noticeable turning resistance. I bought the bike used and found many indications that a previous owner had done plenty of tinkering w/it himself. There wasn't 80 ftlbs worth of torque on the nut when I took it off the first time. I guess it is possible that there's something missing. I have the Clymer manual. It's a bit confusing about what goes where as the diagram is divided into two rows but its not clear how the two rows coincide. It seems to show the nut on the left side of the bike, but it was on the right side when I bought it. This weekend I'll tear it all down and reassess the components present against the skematic and hopefully find the missing item. If everything is present (spacers/crush washer), what else could it be? The bike has only 8500 miles on it (for now!!).

 

sounds to me like the spacers are on wrong or not at all? Im no expert though.

 

there is a collar with a lip in the middle of it on the inside of the sprocket housing, if that is missing when u tighten up the rear end,just past finger tight the wheel will be hard to turn. sometimes when u change the wheel and take the sprocket off and sit it down people don't notice that the collar has fallen out and put it back together. i am a kawasaki tech and have hadthe samething happen,but i caught it before i got the wheel all together. hope i helped.

 

OK, thanks Kymer. I'll double check that. That may be what it is. I'll post my findings when I get to it this weekend. I'm on travel in the Birkshires this week. Got snowed on today. Bad Juju. I'm hopin' the cold wet stuff will hold off for at least another month!! Thanks for the help guys!!

 

I just bought the service manual from kawasaki, should i also by the other manuals?

 

Ahoy Jamie.
The complete set of Kawasaki (original and supplement) manuals are really all you need.
When I bought an Haynes manual in addition to the factory service manual for my first rebuild, I gathered a few extra little pointers (for instance, the Brits use the word "ante-clockwise" instead of counter-clockwise and they call a wrench a "spanner." But if you ever have a problem with some of the apparently skipped steps in the factory manual, at least now we have the internet.
Did you know that in some motorcycling circles, British mechanics are called "fitters"? The reason why is because Triumph's quality control was so bad in the old days, the mechanics were experts at grinding, sanding, filing and reshaping parts to make them fit properly.

I started a pretty thorough valve-adjustment how-to for the 500R, but still haven't had the time or inclination to finish it: http://www.calamarichris.com/ex500/valveadj1.htm
Peace!
-CCinC

 

thats good stuff, you just gotta add some text to it, unless my computer isnt showing me something