A little clarification:
So this happens when you hit a certain RPM, but when the bike slows back down, it runs okay again?

Are you able to get it past 5-6,000 rpm?

If "yes" to the first question, and "no" to the second, another likely explanation is the float level in one or both carbs may be off. This is very easily done, especially if someone has been horsing around with a jet kit or has overhauled the carbs.
Let me know and I'll describe how to check (and adjust if necessary) the float-levels.

Good luck and don't get discouraged.
Peace!
-Chris in C'bad

 

You know, I didn't check the float height when I had them off before. Nothing seemed bent or out of place so I just took it for granted that it was OK. Today I'm taking my Voltage Rectifier and IC Igniter into a shop to see if they will test them. I did the resistance test on the Voltage Rectifier and it showed a high resistance but no discernable low resistance. I'm going to have them check to see if it was just me or my multimeter not getting the right readings or if it is in fact faulty. Also pulling carbs off bike again for a second cleaning and I'll check the float heights this time. I'm learning alot about the bike- which I think is good- but I sure would like to do some riding pretty soon!
Oh, and thanks for your insight! Back to work for me..........

 

OK, so I took my Voltage Rectifier and IC Igniter to a dealer. They said that they couldn't test them unless they're on the bike. This is at least partially contrary to what's indicated in the manual and I'm not fond of their character to begin with. I went to another Kawasaki dealer and talked to the mechanic there. He said that if the bike is charging then the Voltage Recitfier is most likely fine. He also said that IC Igniters don't fail that often and that on a bike with 3700 miles or so on it it should be fine. He suggested going back to the tank and carbs and doing some cleaning. Took the carbs off yesterday, cleaned them up, raised the needle height 1 clip (to the third position from the top) and I didn't see anything unusual other than some light brown deposits in the main body of the carbs. Maybe some gunk from the gas but carb cleaner took it right off. I was very careful to not pinch the vacuum plunger on top when I buttoned it back up. I hear that can cause some major problems. The float needles didn't look bent or messed-up in any way so I'm taking it for granted that their OK for the moment due to the sudden onset of running problems. Today I'm gonna put the carbs back on the bike and fire it up and see what happens. Deep down inside I still feel that it may be an ignition problem so if it isn't running right I'm gonna keep testing connectors and circuits just to make sure that is all tight, too.

Also, has anyone had experience testing the Pickup Coil? According to the Clymer manual that I have I need to check at the connector to the IC Igniter and there should be 2 wires but I can't find a connector that matches that description. 3 wires- yes, 2- no. OK, in the back it indicates a blue and yellow wire. I think that all three wires are yellow. OK, back to work. For some reason it's like 30 degrees here. Why???????

 

Sorry to beat a dead horse, but I still believe it's the float levels. They will look like they're fine, but if you've already been digging around in those float bowls, those delicate little float-arm tangs are VERY easy to disrupt (but that also means they're very easy to repair too.)
Check the easy fix first! Check those float levels.
-Chris in C'bad

 

I got it back together today with the needles at clip 3 and it runs nicely *except* the idle is still rough. I had a suggestion today from a buddy of mine that works on cars and bikes that he had a similar problem on a bike. He cleaned the carbs a couple of times and it still idled rough. A friend of his who also works on bikes suggested using some compressed air to clean out the smaller orifaces in the carb body and that did the trick. I'm gonna try that tomorrow as well as checking the float levels. Chris seems really knowledgeable about this bike- certainly more than I am so what do I have to lose?

I like the clip 3 thing. Midrange is much smoother now.

I also notice a really loud noise (rattling) that seems to be coming from the airbox. It coincides with the rhythm of the exhaust but doesn't seem to be coming from the exhaust. I'm going to investigate this further as well. I can't imagine what could be in there that would make that much noise! Maybe it's some sympathetic vibration trying to drive me crazy(ier).

Once again- thanks for the input!!!

 

OK, so got my bike back together today. I still feel like the idle is rough and the delivery in the lower revs is soggy and uneven. I checked the float levels and (painstakingly) adjusted them. Didn't make much of difference unfortunately. I haven't balanced the carbs yet so that probably won't hurt, either. OK, so back to work!!!

Oh, and might I mention that what I'm shooting for is smooth and even power delivery. Right now it's like- soggy and delayed to a little bit to a flat spot and then finally some pull in the higher revs. If I blip the throttle in lower revs while I'm moving it's actually OK. If I'm accelerating from stop is really the frustrating part. I just want to be able to anticipate what the bike is going to do when I crack the throttle.

 

I was poking around here looking for some more wisdom when I noted that someone had taken the caps off of his pilot screws and readusted them. I notice that this is a common suggestion for bikes with aftermarket pipes and rejetting as well. My caps are still on- indicating to me that no one has messed with them. Might that help me with my lower-rev power-delivery issues? I get the feeling that it's an air-fuel issue but I'm still learning my bike's language.

 

the wires that you are looking for come out of the stator cover, one plug has three. that is the stator. the other will have four, and that will bee the two pickup coils. two wires for each coil. I belive that there are two blac wires (one coil) and a yellow and blue wire (other coil). those are the wires that you are looking for. they tell the igniter when to spark.

 

yes, adjust those pilot screws. 2.5 turns out is a good starting point.