I'm thinking alternator. If I jump it quick, I can start it up easily. Drove it a few blocks, and it died on me. Wouldn't start, headlight wouldn't come on after a while. Runs just fine when hooked up to running truck. I have previously noticed points when it would quit accelerating for a split second at high RPMs. It runs just fine with a good charge.

If anyone thinks I'm wrong, let me know, but it runs just fine for a few seconds after starting, but had issues after a couple minutes.

How hard/expensive is it to replace? Any pointers?

 

Battery first - it might have shorted cells. Then look at the regulator. Alternator is least likely.

Also check the wiring, especially the connectors, between alternator and regulator.

Rob

 

I'm just glad it's during the winter, so I have another 6-8 months to fix it until I can even ride it again.

 

sounds like a good place to start..

i'd at least load-test the battery to ensure it's crap or not.. any auto parts place can do that should you not have a load tester..

suspecting you're battery IS ready for retirement and you've replaced it, ensure good electrical connections like Rob suggested.. a failing charging system can wipe out a battery..

simply meter the system. you should make about 14.4 Volts DC at 4-6krpm. you should have NO less than 11.6 12.2 V at idle.. 12.86 is a good number to look for.. 13.86 is the golden standard, but you'll have variance and swing in the power.. as long as you sit near the lower or mid 12 volt range, and have a 2 volt increase in mid RPM running, you're good to go.

should you find you're not getting this kind of DC power, let my know.. post up.. i'll direct you from there.. (as i'm sure Rob could as well, or anyone else..)

keep us posted bro!!

 

G'day guys,

I thought the title of this thread is suitable for my enquiry as well (no point starting new topic).

I also got the new Ninja 250R about 2-3 weeks ago, I am still breaking the engine in. So far clocked around 250kms on the odometer. But, for the past 2 days, my bike is struggling to start.

Even assisitng it with the choke, it still struggles. It doesnt do it all the time, but it certainly has become alot more frequent.

It wasnt like this previously; before even when it was cold, it sometimes started without using the choke at all!

I dont want to maintain the starter for longer than 5 seconds (well acordingly to the user manual, its not healthy).

The only way im starting it now is by giving it some throttle while having my finger on the starter button.

I was thinking wiring, but its a new bike for Gods sakes. What could possibly go wrong with it?

All suggestions welcome.

Cheers
Ken

 

As it's a new bike, let the dealer sort it out.

If you're doing a lot of short journeys after cold start (not good for a bike, and certainly not got good for break in) your battery could be down a bit.

It could also just be due to the weather getting colder - you'll need more choke and the battery voltage will be lower in colder ambient temperatures.

Rob

 

amen.. if it's new, it's under warranty..

FREE FIX!

 

FIX IT!!!




















































































for free

 

AAAAAANNND, it's nice out again. Still a bad stator. I'm driving it around after I charge it at night. Good enough to make it the 1/2 mile to work and back, but at least give me my fix for the time being.

I looked up some info and found the following thread on another forum. I might just copy everything to here so I have it, and so it's available for everyone else here. A very nice write-up with pictures.

http://www.kawiforums.com/showthread.php?t=97835

What's the cheapest place to buy a stator, and what else will I need? I know I need high-temp silicone aka KawiBond according to that thread. I have all the tools mentioned on there. Just not sure if I need any gaskets or anything that he might have received with the cover kit he bought that needs to be replaced when working on the factory piece.

Thanks guys! I'm just happy to see that this isn't hopeless. Fixing my S-10 seems like it is, though.

 

Seen that link. And you have already checked the info on page 15-14 concerning the testing of the alternator,stator coil resistance and the Rectifier?